• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

Diesel Swap

Jaydog

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 26, 2006
Messages
8,073
Reaction score
0
Location
Edgewood
Ok, so I have a '71 Chev K-20, I currently have a 350 in it that needs to be rebuilt, I have been planning on stroking it, but then I had an idea, How difficult would it be to put a cummings in it. Since most of you guys are well educated about diesel's I figure I would see what the consensus is.
 
Wouldn't you have to replace the entire drivetrain?

GaryTJ and I talked about the amount of work it would take to put a Liberty Diesel into a TJ.

Not even with the cost of the motor, it involved some coin. I'd really like to do it, I just don't have the money.
 
KarlVP said:
Wouldn't you have to replace the entire drivetrain?

GaryTJ and I talked about the amount of work it would take to put a Liberty Diesel into a TJ.

Not even with the cost of the motor, it involved some coin. I'd really like to do it, I just don't have the money.
The cheapest way would be to find a wreck and swap everything.
 
Jaydog said:
I wanted it in Chatter, so I could have every input on it, not just tech.

DOH!! But it will turn into --well you know(unles thats what you want).

I can move it back...
 
Jaydog said:
Ok, so I have a '71 Chev K-20, I currently have a 350 in it that needs to be rebuilt, I have been planning on stroking it, but then I had an idea, How difficult would it be to put a cummings in it. Since most of you guys are well educated about diesel's I figure I would see what the consensus is.

Which option do you want?
1.) 6.2/6.5, stock GM parts but not high on anyones list for reliablity or power.
2.) Cummins 5.9, lots of power, very heavy and a nv4500 have lots of adapter for it. Wrecked early Dodges can be had for cheap.
3.) 3.9 Cummins out of bread truck. not as much power, better mpg, still on the heavy side, also most of the 5.9 parts fit the 3.9.
 
crash said:
DOH!! But it will turn into --well you know(unles thats what you want).

I can move it back...
No, That's fine. I just want to cover all the inputs.

bobracing said:
Which option do you want?
1.) 6.2/6.5, stock GM parts but not high on anyones list for reliablity or power.
2.) Cummins 5.9, lots of power, very heavy and a nv4500 have lots of adapter for it. Wrecked early Dodges can be had for cheap.
3.) 3.9 Cummins out of bread truck. not as much power, better mpg, still on the heavy side, also most of the 5.9 parts fit the 3.9.

I was thinking the 5.9, I am not worried about weight, I just need a reliable tow rig that has enough power for a camper and trailer, If I stroke the 350, I could get plenty of torque and hp, but I would be around 6 mpg.

I looked at some new rigs, but the K20 is in great shape, and has one ton running gear, and it is paid for.
 
Last edited:
Just buy a 1st or 2nd gen dodge with a cummins and put that in there along with the tranny etc. Probably cost you about $3500 total.
Stroking a 350 is simply detuning a 400...don't ruin the 400 to build a motor with less power and less displacement.
 
We have put a cummins into a chevy pickup. WHAT A BITCH!!! The motor did not fit worth a **** in the frame, so we chose to build a new frame. If you were to think about using your frame there is several things to address. The frame is too narrow for the cummins motor mounts to fit. You could try to fab something up, but it will not be fun. Also, the AC compressor would have to leave (it is on the lower passenger front corner). The engine compartment is not long enough for the cummins motor. You have to cut out the entire core support to make room for the intercooler and radiator. The grill has to be trimmed a little, then you can make all new mounts for everything up front. Depending on the tranny you go with, you are going to run into issues with the floor not having a big enough "hump" in it for todays larger trannies. Obviously you have to make your own tranny crossmember also. We had a hell of a time making t-case linkage work, and even a harder time getting a clutch master cylinder to fit on the firewall and have clearance inside for the rod. If you can get all the fab work handled, it is a piece of cake to make the motor run (it only needs a couple of wires to make it run). Just to give you some sort of idea on how much work it was, I had well over 200 hours of labor into it after the frame was built and the cab mounted to the frame (but that did include building a whole new custom dash for the truck).

*edit* I just re-read your post and saw that you have a 71. The truck we were working with was an 80. IIRC the engine compartment is narrow and shorter on your truck, but the frame rails are a little wider. You might want to do some measuring before you get too far into this.

Good luck!!
 
Last edited:
I put a 95 cummins into a 83 chevy 4x2 dually.
PICT0037.jpg
[/URL
PICT0034.jpg
[/URL][/IMG]][/IMG]
PICT0028.jpg
[/URL][/IMG] I used the dodge cummins engine, trans, aftercooler, radiator, computer and wiring.
 
Tankota said:
Stroking a 350 is simply detuning a 400...don't ruin the 400 to build a motor with less power and less displacement.
Actually it is putting a 400 crank in a 350, and will have more torque than a 400, and with the proper heads will turn out around 450 hp.

Binder said:
Why not just buy the truck with the powertrain you want and sell the chev?:wtf:

I don't like the "norm"

Jason C said:
Buy a Gen 1 p/u..... Swap the body onto it I think would be an easier swap.

That would probably be the easiest.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top