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DIY Beadlock install help

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DrveJeepDrnkBeer

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Well I have myself a set of 15" beadlocks from offroadoverstock.com, got all 4 welded, and am working on bolting the first ring down. I am having a hell of a time getting the bolts to all tighten down, let alone get them torqued to 15 lbs. Doing my best to do a star pattern, which I have read is a good way to get all down tight. My problem is, I am starting to break bolts! Busted two so far, and wondering if I should be doing something a bit different.

Thanks,
Bryan
 
Our "local beadlock manufacturer at the south end of Paine field" uses this process for their wheels:

*5/16" grade 8 bolts.

*Torque in a circle not star pattern. Star pattern not necessary and in some ways can work against you. Pull up just a bit at a time. It should take 6-10 times around the wheel to get full torque at all bolts.

*Final torque 20 foot lbs.

*Retorque often the first season. They will loosen up as the clamped tire bead flattens out.

Mine went super easy as I used MTR's. With a heavy sidewall tire like a Swamper and that I'm sure its a royal PITA.
 
Well, did you get 'um on??

I'll bet your arms are sore from pulling that ratchet and torque wrench all day!!
 
Well I went round and round and round, and most are tight, but im starting to bust them off with the torque wrench. Whats happening is that the nut is getting to the un threaded part off the bolt and has no where to go.

Gunna get shorter bolts, and grade 8, think that should do the trick.
 
DrveJeepDrnkBeer said:
Well I went round and round and round, and most are tight, but im starting to bust them off with the torque wrench. Whats happening is that the nut is getting to the un threaded part off the bolt and has no where to go.

Gunna get shorter bolts, and grade 8, think that should do the trick.
Click to expand...

If your busting them off your going way past 15 to 20Lbs.Take a picture of said beadlock your working on.
 
I didn't mention the starter bolts but Super Samuri did. But, Yea' you may have to use longer ones to get them started and then switch to shorter ones. Thats totally normal, standard procedure.

I'm reluctant to mention it as I don't want to sound like a smart ass or know it all, but be carefull. When you calculate the air pressure times the surface area of the sidewall, there is literally tons of force trying to blow that ring off. I would make sure every bolt is perfect, none that are bottomed out, cracked or over torqued ect.

Im sure you already know this, but I know there is some young guys on the forum who dont, but, up until the early seventies the old 16.5 rims used a spit rim with this lock ring that held the outer rim flange on: the wheel split in two. The tire mechanic had to pry the lock ring off, dismount the tire and replace the rim flange and lock ring. If the lock ring wasn't locked perfectly in the slot of the rim, then as the tire was inflated, the sidewall would blow the lockring and rim flange off with explosive force. This has killed lots and lots of people. I believe split rims were finally outlawed for DOT use. I'll bet You-Tube has safety videos of this kind of failure.

If enough bolts are missing, broken or otherwise bad on a beadlock ring I suspect the same thing can happen. When you talk about breaking bolts off your worring me.

EDIT: I did a little math to calculate the force on a bead lock ring bolt flange. I came up with 6511 lbs (three tons).

Warning; boring math below:

Based on a 37" tire, 15" rim at 25 psi:

Surface area of a 37" disk (tire shadow) Pi x radius squared= 1075 sq in.

Surface area of 15" disk (rim area) same formula as above= 177 sq in.

Tire shadow surface minus rim surface equals actual sidewall surface area= 898 sq in.

Multiply by 25 psi times sidewall area and you have a force on the sidewall of 22,450 lbs.

116 linear inches (71% / 15940 lbs) of this load is restrained by the tire perimeter and carried to the opposite side of tire, 47 linear inches (29% / 6511 lbs) , is loaded on the beadlock bold flange.
 
Last edited:
Well I already took the bolts out and will be getting some 1 1/2 in grade 8's on tuesday or wednesday when tacoma screw or valley nut and bolt are open. When I first busted a bolt off, it was because my torque wrench was broken and would not read that low of a number. I since replaced my torque wrench, and am not having a problem breaking bolts, but I am running out of threads. The nuts are to the unthreaded area of the bolt, and I was just using hand tools all the way around 6+ times.

When I get my bolts, I will give it a try and let you know if I have anymore problems.

Bryan

Thanks again.
 
Got my problem all figured out. Got some 1 1/2 grade 8 bolts, and I got most of them all torqued down. Just gotta go around again then set the bead.

Thanks.
 
Got all 4 done and only had one leak. Figured that was pretty good for my first time. It's kinda nice to have friends that work at tire shops that have the tools to mount/dis-mount and get some free metal valve stems. :D
 
you'll want to put something(fanbelt) between the clamp ring and the flange you welded to the lip of the rim(towards the center of the wheel from the bolts) This will keep the clamp ring from coning....which is what causes the bolts to break(other than cheap ass bolts)
 
jeepmauler said:
you'll want to put something(fanbelt) between the clamp ring and the flange you welded to the lip of the rim(towards the center of the wheel from the bolts) This will keep the clamp ring from coning....which is what causes the bolts to break(other than cheap ass bolts)
Click to expand...

Well cheap ass bolts was the cause my first go around. But got that solved with grade 8 bolts that were a better length. The fan belt idea would have been a good idea, cept im done with all 4, so to late for that.
 

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