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Do I need an anti-wrap bar?

Marty

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Pic was taken next to a normal 3/8 bolt that is straight. Well I have been planning to build an anti wrap bar soon, now that I have a 220 plug in my garage. This is the leaf spring tie bolt. Bent pretty bad and also the hole in the shim is wallered out a little bit. I thought **** looked funny so I pulled the ubolts. Yes the Ubolts WERE tight. Is it bent because of axle wrap? Just wanna make sure the bar will fix this. Also I plan to use a 3/8 grade 9 bolt instead of a tie bolt it that will work :dunno:
pin001.jpg
 
Yes you need a anti wrap bar. I had spring over on my old XJ . And I was breaking drive shafts due to the axle wrap I had. Doesn't matter how tight you get everything , when you apply the gas it just pushes the pinion up. All I could do is add a anti wrap bar to fix my problem. Have you checked your drive shaft joints and u-bolts. I would put money on it that they have been binding in the yoke.
 
Joints are fine, alll 1410. Stuff isnt that old, I had the shaft out earlier so thats the first thing I checked. I knew I had bad wrap. I could jack the truck up and droop out the rear axle, and turn one of the tires back and forth (in gear) and watch the hole damn front of the pinion bounce up and down. I already have all the heims for one end and poly bushings for the other, just need to order a truss for the 14 bolt from BTF. I wanna do it that way instead of welding the bar to one side of the axle tube, that way no spun axle tubes, I can tuuck it in over the D shaft and later use the truss for a 4 link
 
Looks like about 6 degrees with an angle finder. But I am not putting shims back in it. the pinion was tilted too high before anyway
 
I think what Tony Cousins did was a damn good idea.. 4 linked his jeep out with leafs.. THEN did coilovers :woody:
 
MUCHADO said:
I think what Tony Cousins did was a damn good idea.. 4 linked his jeep out with leafs.. THEN did coilovers :woody:

Yeah you might as well go ahead and link the top and be done with it. The when you get ready just link the bottom and add your coilovers. Wasn't even thinking about that.
 
Marty said:
Looks like about 6 degrees with an angle finder. But I am not putting shims back in it. the pinion was tilted too high before anyway
w/ a shim that tall it looks to me like the initial problem was the bolt being tightened w/o a countersink to allow it to sit flush... basically the clamping force of the bolt was causing it to bend itself, thus fatiguing the bolt, loosening up causing your excessive wrap.... what rear springs are you running??
 
draggbody said:
w/ a shim that tall it looks to me like the initial problem was the bolt being tightened w/o a countersink to allow it to sit flush... basically the clamping force of the bolt was causing it to bend itself, thus fatiguing the bolt, loosening up causing your excessive wrap.... what rear springs are you running??

Sounds like a good possibility there. They were 4" lift BDS springs for the front of a 1/2 ton k5, but I had 2 leafs pulled cause it sat ass way high with the 4" shackle flip. I think the pack only has 3 leafs then an overload now.
 
if you have a shackle flip then move it back a little and put in some 56" springs... leave them stock as they flex good and control the axle wrap... pulling leaf packs apart works, but is really a baid aid for getting the right parts.... you could still throw an antiwrap on it, but again i think you are compensating for another problem....
 
Yea, the only reason I never went with 56s or 63s is because I have no frame behind the flip. Truck was a CUCV with a long wheelbase and I didnt want long springs becuase I shorted the frame. I am going to build the bar, I have some tube and got some cheap midwest control heims from ballistic so we'll see what happens.
 
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