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I would really think twice about running a "spped density" set-up on your LS1. Normally when people change to a SD set-up its because their MAF is a restriction in the intake path and it can't calibrate correctly for the mods done to the motor or the HP of the motor has exceeded the range of the MAF. Now that you can purchase 100 mm MAF sensors these problems are gone. With the type of use that your motor will see instead of just WOT I feel that you will get a better running engine by using a MAF. Do you have a drive by wire LS1 or a cable for the throttle body? If its drive by wire your tuner can adjust the decel rate in the pcm to "catch" the drop in rpm to slow the rate as it comes to idle to prevent it from dying. As far as the dyno and O2 sensor the shop will or should have a clamp on O2 that they will place inside the end of your header pipe. What tuning software will they be using to tune your engine? HP Tuners, EFI Live or LS1 Edit?
I would really think twice about running a "spped density" set-up on your LS1. Normally when people change to a SD set-up its because their MAF is a restriction in the intake path and it can't calibrate correctly for the mods done to the motor or the HP of the motor has exceeded the range of the MAF. Now that you can purchase 100 mm MAF sensors these problems are gone. With the type of use that your motor will see instead of just WOT I feel that you will get a better running engine by using a MAF.
Do you have a drive by wire LS1 or a cable for the throttle body? If its drive by wire your tuner can adjust the decel rate in the pcm to "catch" the drop in rpm to slow the rate as it comes to idle to prevent it from dying.
As far as the dyno and O2 sensor the shop will or should have a clamp on O2 that they will place inside the end of your header pipe.
What tuning software will they be using to tune your engine? HP Tuners, EFI Live or LS1 Edit?