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Fj80 or similar rear steer axles

whiskeymakin

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I've got dreams of this honda buggy and hope one day it will turn out. I've located but not purchased a nice set of fj80 axles with the e-lockers.
What is the concensus on turning a regular rear fj80 axle into a steering axle? I think the cost would get out of hand on this but I'd like to see the odd ball setups some of you may have run across thru the years.
I'm needing a offset rear to the passenger side, I'd like to make it a steering axle while I'm at it.
I'm open to other options as well though.
 
Re:

Converting a 9.5 rear to a steer axle actually isn't a high dollar endeavor at all.

The diff is already offset and the axles are the same spline.

Using the rear 9.5 e locker would require a custom long spline inner because the it needs a long ass axle spline for the lock collar to slide on.

Otherwise it's a pretty well documented conversion





As for oddball setups, I think the 33 spline Nissan dropout axles with spidertax outers is probably the oddest I've seen.
 
Re: Re: Fj80 or similar rear steer axles

whiskeymakin said:
I've got dreams of this honda buggy and hope one day it will turn out. I've located but not purchased a nice set of fj80 axles with the e-lockers.
What is the concensus on turning a regular rear fj80 axle into a steering axle? I think the cost would get out of hand on this but I'd like to see the odd ball setups some of you may have run across thru the years.
I'm needing a offset rear to the passenger side, I'd like to make it a steering axle while I'm at it.
I'm open to other options as well though.
Get a fj60/40 front, flip the knuckle balls and rotate/redrill the housing. If u wanted 80 parts in there you could mix those parts in with it.

Or you could use a fab housing with 80 parts
 
If I buy the fj80 set I'd hate to spend a bunch of money on messing up good axle.
So if I did go that route what c and knuckle would be a good choice, and who for custom shafts for the e locker deal
 
Re: Re: Fj80 or similar rear steer axles

whiskeymakin said:
If I buy the fj80 set I'd hate to spend a bunch of money on messing up good axle.
So if I did go that route what c and knuckle would be a good choice, and who for custom shafts for the e locker deal
Fj80 outers are a good match to the 9.5 3rd.

I would not convert the full float e locker fj80 rear to a steer. I'd sell it and get a semi float fj60/62/80 rear and convert it., and don't run the 9.5 e locker.


Then you would not have to mess with custom shafts at all.


Honestly before I went through the trouble of building a 9.5"/fj80 rear steer Toyota axle, I'd just run a stock Ford hp60 in the rear. It'll be cheaper, stronger, and much more upgradeable if the need arises. Spend the $ to put light weight brakes on the 60 and shed some weight.


Now if you are talking about a kid buggy with smaller non-sticky tires, the the 9.5/fj80 Toyota steer axle should be fine in the rear with minimal/no upgrades. Stock fj80 birfs/shafts are pretty strong (think stock D60 strong)



I had gathered up all the parts to build a 9.5fj80 steer axle, but basically the only strength upgrade you can do is 30 spline RCVs. And if you ever exceed the capability of a chromo 30 spline, you can't get bigger shafts through the spindle or diff without some real custom work. And the diff isn't really strong enough to warrant more than 30 spline shafts...
 
Can you cut & flip the fj80 front axle to make it a rear steer axle like the Yota mini truck axle? That's how my rear axle is done. The 8" Yota stuff has held up well in my Honda buggy. But I'm wanting something stronger to run under my next buggy. Still going to be a small light weight buggy but planning on a bit more weepow.
 
Yea but I just would have one front axle. The fj80 axles are like gold from what I've seen lately haha. Might as well build some dana 60s if you want two fj80 fronts.

Ok, what about dana 44s? Is strength an issue if you were to make the rear axle a steering axle with Reid knuckles, yukon shafts,and super joints. I know there's got to be some guys out there that have done it. I'd like to hear some personal experiences.

Only issue I have is sinking that much money into a 44 when you could just about have a 60 for close to the same money. Then, Here we go again with weight savings....
 
I would rather run a yota 8" with RCVs than a D44 with yukons.

Edit: if light weight is your goal..

I don't really see where a 44 fits into the weight vs strength debate.
 
TBItoy said:
I would rather run a yota 8" with RCVs than a D44 with yukons.

Edit: if light weight is your goal..

I don't really see where a 44 fits into the weight vs strength debate.

I looked around for axle weights and I've seen a bunch of guestimating...
Explain the weight vs. Strength debate. I was thinking they were both very close in both catagories? The dana might be on the less expensive side, so that's why I was leaning that way :dunno:
 
whiskeymakin said:
I looked around for axle weights and I've seen a bunch of guestimating...
Explain the weight vs. Strength debate. I was thinking they were both very close in both catagories? The dana might be on the less expensive side, so that's why I was leaning that way :dunno:

I guess it's according to what you have available, and what you are going to use it for, and what width axle you are looking for.

Both D44s and Toyotas can be very expensive to build.
But for comparison,

RCVs for a Toyota are $650
for a Waggy D44 they are $1350.


I'm pretty confident in the statement that Yukon shafts and joints in a 44 are fairly weaker than RCVs... So you could put RCVs in steering Toyotas Front and Rear for what one set of D44 RCVs cost.


As for weight, a D44 weighs more than a Toyota axle. Even comparing to a narrow Waggy or Scout Dana 44. Granted, not by much, but they still do.


Now if you are wanting a full size width axle, then the Toyota might not be for you.

Also think about high steer, I'd assume with a buggy you would want the steering up high or even behind the axle (between the links front and rear).

Toyotas are easy to put high steer on, and easy to build custom steering arms for if you want. (FJ80s don't fall into this category, their steering is already behind the axle)


D44s aren't bad if you happen to have on that came with flat top knuckles, or can easily source flat top knuckles





I'm assuming you are wanting 2 steering axles, with the diffs on the "passenger side"...?




Basically you can spend as much damn money as you want on either axle, but to me it seems that a Toyota axles is easier and cheaper to upgrade and build up as you need with basic tools.




Oh and if you can get a smoking deal on the E locker FJ80 axles, buy 'em and flip em. thumb.gif
 
Thanks for your input. I didn't realize the RCVs were that much cheaper for the yotas! Still leaning torwards the 44s a little. We will see.
The fj80s weren't exactly a deal in my book. 1000 bucks for a front and rear. Front had the diff changed out for a open one, assuming the elocker blew up. The rear still has elocker.
 
FWIW, the blue single seat buggy in the video below runs a Honda engine, D44's and 39" reds. It works like mad and I'm not saying he hasn't broken anything but for what he puts it through it holds up well. It also is probably the lightest rig I've ever wheeled with.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4RTkMdExymk&feature=youtu.be
 
GONOVRIT said:
FWIW, the blue single seat buggy in the video below runs a Honda engine, D44's and 39" reds. It works like mad and I'm not saying he hasn't broken anything but for what he puts it through it holds up well. It also is probably the lightest rig I've ever wheeled with.

https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=4RTkMdExymk&feature=youtu.be

So its a transaxle rig or the engine is mated to a longitudinal trans?

Edit: NM, I missed the first clip of it the first time around.
 

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