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Got A New E-Maxx... Couple Questions

84Toyota4x4

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So, Ive been out of the R/C hobbies for a while since I lost interest from when I was in my teens and all the kits became "ready to run", but with my girlfriends Dad owning a hobby store, and him deciding to start carrying R/C cars, I decided I needed an E-Maxx.

I was drooling over one for a while, and then what do you know, the perfect girlfriend I have bought me one for Christmas before I had a chance to save up and buy one.

Anyway, I have a couple questions, pretty simple I'm sure. I don't have plans to make this a hardcore crawler or anything, I'm having fun with it now that I tweaked the suspension a little, and got some decent batteries for a good run time.

1. As any of you who have one of these know, the steering servo SUCKS. Im looking for something that will at least turn the wheels when sitting still :rolleyes:

I hear 200oz is a good number to shoot for for crawling, but the only servo (Airtronics) I could find with a quick search and that kinda power seemed like I needed new radio equipment to run it. I want something that will be stronger, but I don't wanna drop coin on a new radio system if possible. Any drop in replacements that will work?

2. Tires. I hear Pro-Line Moabs work well? The stock tires I have now work for what I'm doing this second, but I noticed just trying to drive up some curbs they don't stick very well at all. Very "plastic like" not enough "rubber like".

3. Wheels. I don't wanna glue my tires. Messy and annoying. I have messed with that long enough back with the nitro cars. Besides, its a good excuse to get some bead locks. What are a good poly bead lock? I'm not competing, and I don't beat on the truck hard, so I don't think I need fancy ass aluminum ones, I just want something that will keep the damn wheels from spinning inside the tires like they do now.

4. Rear wheel steering. Eventually I would like to do this, but not a real priority. Ive seen kits, and Ive heard about people using stock parts on the back since the damn truck is almost symmetrical. How are you guys doing it? Radio equipment for control?

5. Diff traction devices. What are you using to "lock up" your diffs? My cousin was telling me about something he has for his Rustler (I think thats what he has), thats basically a LSD. I think Id rather do something like this than a spool type device simply to try and prevent breakage, but spools would work too. I looked through Tower real fast, but didn't see what I'm looking for, maybe I just don't know what they're calling it?

6. Any other basic upgrades or mods that are fairly common? Similar to reliability stuff you would do to a new car? Preventive maintenance per say.

Other than that, I don't have any real plans other than the typical "break it so I upgrade it" cycles. Its mostly just something to goof around with during breaks while 4wheeling, crawl over stuff in the house, or just run around outside. Nothing too amazing planned for it really. I do like zipping it around since I came from nitro stadium trucks, so I dont plan to gear it TOO low, nor lock out the tranny or anything.

Anyway, sorry for the long read, and thanks for any help! :clappy:

~T.J.
 
For your first question, Airtronics makes a 200oz/in servo that is awsome. No new radio gear needed. Its a 94358.

Second. I have the moabs and they are the stickeyest compound Ive ever felt. A huge improvement over stockers.

Try axial beedlocks. They are not that expensive and actually the older styles you can find cheaper than dirt on RCCrawler.com I just got a set with differant rings. They look awsome, and they are tuff. www.Axialracing.com

Dont know about the rear stear, but I am using the Tq3 modded for rear stear. Just do a search on here or at RC Crawler.com and you'll see all kinds of write ups on how to do it.

The diffs, never seen any "LSD"s for the little trucks, we all just use JB Weld. works great if your not messy. other than that untill you got pretty much all ya need for what it sounds like you'll be doing.
 
Thanks for the help! Sounds like Im pretty much set for now then. Ive got front rear and center sklid plates, a servo skid plate, gonna get that new steering servo, and some of those Axial beadlocks if I can find them. Are they gonna be hard to find at all? I wouldnt mind buying those new either though.

Another question is raised however, I kinda like the size/feel of the Moab 2.2s, not so much the Moab 40 series, although it seems thats the size the beadlocks are in on that website.

Do the 2.2s work better? They seem to have more sidewall flex being a less "low profile" tire. I might try and find a way to make those fit if thats the case. Get some smaller wheels, spacers to clear suspension/knuckle crap, whatever. And then, if they do work better, then Im gonna need some 2.2 beadlocks instead...

If they dont work any better or less, do I need to worry about gearing it down for the larger size 40 series tires?

I guess my shopping list for now is just the wheels, tires, and the servo! Not too bad!

Oh, last question. What about hot glue for the "locker"? I used to use it back in the day in my older cars because you can get it out easier if you ever want to "unlock" them (which I might if I start breaking too much other ****), anyone still using it or is JB Weld the stuff nowadays?

~T.J.
 
a lot of your questions seem to be crawler related. i would check the emaxx section of rccrawler.com for some great info on the emaxx

as far as a locker goes if you want to convert back someday i would just get the traxxas spool. and save the parts you take out of your diff. they are only 7 bucks a piece or so. but if you do that you're going to needs stronger axle shafts for sure.
 
Well, crawler related, to a point. Buggy fully modded craziness, no.

Im just doing the same things to this that I would (and did do) to my own truck I drive. New wheels, some good tread, a locker (in this case two), throw some protection on it (skid plates), and fix whats wrong with it (in this case, shitty steering).

I guess I might just get the spools and run those. Seems like the best option really since I dont risk damaging the stock parts should something go wrong with glue. If (when) I start breaking axles, then like I said, its time to upgrade.

~T.J.
 
84Toyota4x4 said:
Well, crawler related, to a point. Buggy fully modded craziness, no.

Im just doing the same things to this that I would (and did do) to my own truck I drive. New wheels, some good tread, a locker (in this case two), throw some protection on it (skid plates), and fix whats wrong with it (in this case, shitty steering).

I guess I might just get the spools and run those. Seems like the best option really since I dont risk damaging the stock parts should something go wrong with glue. If (when) I start breaking axles, then like I said, its time to upgrade.

~T.J.

Wheeling, Wheeling, Wheeling, now you're gonna have to show up the nylints:flipoff:
 
Haha, this thing is fun. Pretty damn impressive for being stock, I expected less honestly as far as climbing abilities with open diffs. We took a bunch of split logs for the wood stove and threw em in a pile in the living room and I was tackling them from every which way. Only got stuck about twice. It was neat. It got to the point where the logs weren't even really a challenge anymore. The two times I did get stuck, spools would've saved me.

Outside it pretty fun, but not enough stuff to drive over. It goes like a bat outta hell too for being stock. I was driving up curbs and crap with it, and the only downfall I saw right away was the lack of skid protection, then of course tire traction. Skid plate problem has been solved already :D

Anyway, I forgot you had that thing. When the weather is dryer, we will have to take them wheeling with us so when we stop to BS, we can wheel the mini-trucks. Or, we could just drive em over all that **** in your garage, lol.

~T.J.
 
The axial beadlocks are 17mm hexes, emaxx is 14mm. You could always get an adapter for them. Don't go with the 2.2 wheels, too small. If you want to crawl better, get some smaller pinions and a 72 spur gear. Like 9-12 on the pinions. Get the moab XL's. They are 7" tall and super sticky. You could also check out the proline cheyenne beadlocks. If you really want to crawl you could swap out the stock motors for a couple 55 turn axiom lathe motors. Then your run times would be 1-2 hours depending on your batteries and you would have killer torque. Servo...airtronics is good or hitec 5955TG, 333oz/in of torque and titanium gears, $114.99. I don't know about rear steer with the stock chassis, might be able to fab something in, but you would need a 4 channel radio as your 3rd channel is used up on your 2 speed tranny. Revo drivelines are a good upgrade. but don't know if they will fit your stock hub bearings. Most people that convert their emaxxes into serious crawlers use revo hubcarriers as well. The next thing that will improve your crawling is a custom chassis and 4 link suspension in conjunction with locking your a-arms so they become a solid axle. This works dramatically better than IFS, but takes a little work.
Just some suggestions. My buddy has a custom emaxx crawler with all the above mods and it crawls 100% better than a stock maxx. Have fun with your truck.:hi:

Also if you get a real servo you can ditch the servo saver and put an aluminum arm on it to get the full advantage of the extra power.
 
buy the best servo you can afford, it will save you money in the long run.

With the maxx you can not go wrong with the traxxas spools for the money.

Wheels and tires are super important and it sounds like you know what you want out of your rig. If you absolutly want to keep the stock wheelbase 2.2 moabs are to small and all the 40 series tires are to big for carwling with the stock wheelbase. You want to run stock emaxx size beadlock wheels (like maxamizer brand) and proline mashers sized for the 3.3 inch stock maxx sized wheels.

Gear down...look into revo shafts from the tranny to the diffs if you are twisting shafts with the low gearing and sticky proline tires.

Chad-My first crawler was a maxx aswell:innocent:
 
Rear steer is pretty easy. You dremel the bumper mounts off the bulks, slap on a plate, some RPM servo mounts and create some links.

Here's a pic of mine, I have a complete build up if interested:
crawler_289.jpg


crawler_298.jpg


As for what to use for the rear servo. You can get a servo reverser that allows you to run both servos on one sevo and gets you proper steering.



2.2 moabs are to small, yet have managed to be mounted. I'd suggest getting the Moab XL's on Cheyenne beadlocks. Or some mashers on maximizer beadlocks.

I believe someone else mentioned, don't go cheap on servo, spend the high dollar once instead of twice or more.

To lock the spools, you can buy the traxxas spools, which is what I recommend, but you can also slap some JB weld in the diffs and give them a day to dry. However, don't be surprised if they break loose eventually. They will also kill your steering radius!
 
The Axial beadlocks come with adapters to put them on my hubs, so I could run them. The only thing I would be worried about is simply the fact theyre a little bigger than whats on there now. Is the size difference really that big of a deal? Could I just gear down the diffs a little to compensate? I really would rather use the Axials if possible, I think they're a much better looking brand than some of the others. So, Im thinking I'll run the Axial beadlocks, and Moabs in the 40 series size. Should be interesting.

I plan on getting the 163 oz Hitec. I can walk into the local store and grab one, and I have money tied up in that store that I have to spend anyway (store credit only - grrr)

As for the rear steer, I think I'll cross that bridge when I get some more money and feel like being adventurous. Right now I dont need it, so I will see about it later.

Spools from Traxxas are the solution for the diffs Ive decided, and upgrades as needed after that.

Anyway, I think thats all for now. Thanks for the help, and any comments about the wheel/tire combos are welcome!

~T.J.
 
You can't change the gearing in the diff's themselves to compensate for the larger tires. You will have to make all your changes on the motor pinion / spur.

The Moabs are great for crawling. If you are looking for an all-around tire, also check out the ProLine Masher 40 series.
 
84Toyota4x4 said:
Is the size difference really that big of a deal?

Anyway, I think thats all for now. Thanks for the help, and any comments about the wheel/tire combos are welcome!

~T.J.

Yes! We run 40 series tires on trucks with 16 inch wheelbase or more only. If you buy 40 series tires plan on building a custom chassis to get your wheel base correct or you will be on your lid all day long.

Chad-
 
Have you looked at the Maxximizer beadlocks? They are 3.2", and will fit a shorter tire, like the Maxx Masher, which is stock Maxx size, but a much better compound and tread pattern.
 
Yes I have looked at them and I dont like the looks of any of them.

I just got my Hitec servo today (HS-5645MG). It does pretty well. At least it can turn the tires 95% lock to lock sitting still on the carpet now, and can completely turn them lock to lock on the kitchen floor easily. Before it wouldnt do anything but sort of move the servo saver with the old servo. The Hitec is mounted without the servo saver on one of the included servo arms and just bolted up to the stock truck steering arm. The way its set up, its on the hole of the servo arm closest to the servo output, so it should be getting the most torque into the steering system as possible. It kinda worked out for the best that way since thats all the more steering range the truck has anyway, otherwise I would be flexing/stressing the servo mount and chassis trying to turn, lol.

I also adjusted the slipper clutch. I was having problems with it not trying to go anywhere with too much resistance in front of it (like trying to drive up a face of some kind). I got it tightened up so that it wont do that anymore, it just drives up on top of stuff, but there is still some slip there when I hold it still and try and drive. It just takes a lot more to get it to slip. Seems to work nicely.

So, I guess now I really want those spool so I can climb up on some more stuff now, plus some wheels and tires and I should be set for now.

OH! Last question, is there a way to lock out the center diff on these things? I'm having problems with all my power going to the front wheels when trying to climb and not powering the rear enough/if at all. Maybe I broke something in there? I dont remember it having that problem before, but when the truck is off the ground, all the wheels spin with throttle, and I went around and held different combinations of tires individually and all seemed well. It just seems that if theres no resistance on the front two, and resistance on the rear two, that only the fronts spin, is that right?

~T.J.

EDIT: About the last question... Im an IDIOT! I just realized that I never glued the tires, so it was just spinning the wheels inside the tires :looser:

I glued the tires, put in some batteries and took it out to see how it helped traction. I hit the throttle expecting to just accelerate faster. It just pulled a wheelie and flipped over :haha:

Even from a pretty good clip forward, it pulls a wheelie if I pin the throttle. I actually almost have to drive it like I had to ride my CR-125 dirt bike. If I'm not careful, it will flip over. It sure crawls over stuff better now too. I feel like an idiot now. I cant believe I completely forgot I never did that because I was thinking I would just get bead locks and I wanted it to be easier to take the tires off when I got them. It never occurred to me that new wheels AND new tires means that I can just glue these :rolleyes:
 
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Have you tried gearing it down yet with a smaller pinion and a bigger spur gear? You will notice a huge difference in crawling ability. Try 9 tooth pinions, you'll like them. Robinson Racing makes them and they are only a few bucks each. Try a 72 spur gear, that is the largest traxxas makes.
Nathan
 
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