got another brake question

whiskeymakin · Aug 14, 2012

97 tj
the pedal travel feels right, its also good and stiff. not going to the floor at all and it barely stops the jeep in low range.

60 front with factory stuff. 14 bolt rear with 1/2 ton disc set up. hard lines all the way to the axles and the factory hoses to the callipers. i did the dodge truck master cyl swap thinking it would be awesome, but its not. i ran all new lines, 3/16".... smaller thinking it would have more pressure.
what am i missing?

nutswinger · Aug 14, 2012

Did you clean/de-grease the brakediscs with some brakecleaner?

whiskeymakin · Aug 14, 2012

yes the rears were new and cleaned. the fronts were what came with the rig, used older stuff

doctordick · Aug 14, 2012

Calipers hung up?

whiskeymakin · Aug 15, 2012

shouldnt be hung. guess i will have to tear into it and find out. im tired of working on this damn thing :****:

TBItoy · Aug 15, 2012

whiskeymakin said:
shouldnt be hung. guess i will have to tear into it and find out. im tired of working on this damn thing :****:

the size of the brakeline won't increase or decrease pressure, and the volume in the lines stays constant, so it really doesnt accomplish anything by decreasing line size, except create a flow restriction in a panic stop.

you said it will barely stop the jeep in low, is the torque converter pulling through the brakes? That is pretty common with a low stall (stock) converter and low gears.

Does it stop ok in high range? My old Toyota cab truck would had GREAT brakes on the road, but you could NOT hold it in low range with the brakes. I got used to poppin the trans in Neutral when I needed to come to a complete stop on the trail.

Current Toyota has stock brakes all the way around, which work fine, but once again, will barely hold the truck in low range first gear (has a jeep aw4, 4:1 D300, and 4.88 axle gears)

whiskeymakin · Aug 16, 2012

its a 5.3, th350 with a 2400 b&m stall, new (seems tight tho), stak 3.75, 4.56 gear in axles. im going to try some more aggressive pads on the fronts and see what happens.

ALLJ · Aug 17, 2012

Call Jimmy Penner at EOR he just got thru helping me out on mine its a 06 TJ with a 6.0 4L80 2800 stall 60 and 14 with 241OR case stops great now but before the master cylinder swap the pedal would go to the floor mine actually did better with the vacum line disconnected another thing I did was took the spring and o ring out of the proportion valve it may help yours and it may not. Did you screw the adjuster all the way out to the last thread or two when you changed the master cylinder ?

JRH · Aug 22, 2012

ALLJ said:
Call Jimmy Penner at EOR he just got thru helping me out on mine its a 06 TJ with a 6.0 4L80 2800 stall 60 and 14 with 241OR case stops great now but before the master cylinder swap the pedal would go to the floor mine actually did better with the vacum line disconnected another thing I did was took the spring and o ring out of the proportion valve it may help yours and it may not. Did you screw the adjuster all the way out to the last thread or two when you changed the master cylinder ?

If you have better brakes without the booster hooked up. More than likely your booster is bad.

On my truck I am running a Chevy 1 ton master, 1.3125" bore with stock 1 ton front calipers and 3/4 ton rear calipers. It stops me quick and will hold my truck in low range. I am running a 2400 stall and 203/205 doubler.