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HELP ME FIX MY TRUCK!!!

Rokcrler

Rokcrler

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Truck has an 88 22RE that was rebuilt several years ago. The truck sat for about 4 years before i bought it.
When i got it home, drained the gas and inspected the tank, fuel filter, fuel pump and sock, reman flow matched injectors, cap, rotor, plugs, wires.
Took it to Hawks Pride and it still stumbled and sputtered. Ran a can of seafoam with 93 and that didnt help.
Pulled the codes and got a 41 and 51 which are TPS related. Tested TPS and it was bad. Installed and set the new TPS and truck still runs rich. At partial throttle theres a surge at idle as shown in the crappy video.
Tonight i changed the temp sensor and nothing changed. Theres no codes being thrown.
Theres no vacuum leaks, the air tubes are good, intake boots are good, swapped the AFM from my other Yota and no change.
So, HELP!
Im ready to slap the pane to the motor if i cant get the EFI to work properly.
Oh yeah, all vacuum lines, emissions, OEM crap is still installed...
YouTube
 
I was having a very similiar problem with mine, first big improvement was adding good, proper ground wires. it is a must have on toyotas.
The next time I had an issue i had so many wiring issues that I ended up replacing the wiring harness to correct the problems. it now runs
very strong. so...check grounds and look for bare spots in your wiring harness.
 
Ive been inspecting the harness, the OP did the cab swap from reg to ext and the truck ran gray before he parked it. I got to ride shotgun at after the swap..I'll check the grounds and proper locations....i found a thread on p4x4 indicating the locations...
Keep the suggestions coming.. :dblthumb:
 
Just a stupid suggestion that I wouldn't make unless I had seen it on mine....a good/new battery did wonders for mine. Always had a small, cheap battery in it and when I got tires of jumping it off all the time and put a new one in, it ran like it had a new engine in it. Also check the cold start injector to see if it is staying on and spraying fuel all the time.
 
It's got a good blue top, swapped a good yellow top, put the charger on it...same thing.
I unplugged the injector before starting while cold, while running warm...same thing :dunno:
 
Do you have a way to check fuel pressure. I would make sure the filter is clean first. Also that the fuel pump is getting enough fuel and working properly.
 
Haven't put a gauge on fuel pressure yet but did install a new pump and sock ass well as fuel filter.
If I hold the throttle past 2000rpm the truck runs great. I guess it just wants me to be a hero and gas it :woot:
 
Does it still have the TPS codes after clearing them out? If so you may wanna ohm out the harness from it to the ECM. I can get you diagrams and terminal pin outs. ( I had to do this on mine for the dizzy signal.)
What about checking O2 sensor voltage?
 
No codes at all. Unplugged the o2 and got code, plugged back in and it cleared.
Striped the injector harness and soldered/inspected the injector splices and verified all the grounds are good.
 
Ive checked everything from the in tank pump sock to the fuel injector. I'll be checking actual fuel pressure today... thumb.gif
 
i know this will sound crazy but my carb 20r did the same thing.. found out my alt. was not getting a good 12v feed to in through the factory harness.. made my skip like a studder box. i have a kill on my truggy and i ran a heavy guage wire from back of kill switch on the postive side to back of alt. she come alive after that.. check alt gauge and if is under 12v mite be worth a try.... just my.02 cents... good luck bro
 
Mo, hold the throttle with the truck running like it was in the video and momentarily pinch the return line coming off the fuel pressure regulator with a pair of pliars. This is an easy way to check the regulator. If it clears up the regulator might be stuck. I've seen this happen one trucks that have been sitting.

Another thing I would definately check is the wiring for the AFM. Check to make sure all the pins are pushed in the connector good then trace all the wiring back to look for bad spots. One loose wire on the AFM will make it run bad at a certain RPM.

Those would be my two first guesses. Based on the video I'm leaning toward an issue with the AFM wiring.

If you got any questions give me a call at home after 6:00. thumb.gif
 
Thanks Nick.. i'll try that tomorrow when i get to the shop.
I did check the wiring and swapped the AFM from the runner and same thing. I will check the pins as that was one of the issues i found on the TPS.

Text or PM your number, all i have is your cell :****:
 
Yeah, the pins on the older style connectors are notorious for working loose. The injector plugs are usually the worst ones about doing this. Seen this several times.
The later model wiring was a big improvement.

A 22RE is a very simple EFI system, but sometimes they can be very hard to diagnose.
 
bluetoy said:
Yeah, the pins on the older style connectors are notorious for working loose. The injector plugs are usually the worst ones about doing this. Seen this several times.
The later model wiring was a big improvement.

A 22RE is a very simple EFI system, but sometimes they can be very hard to diagnose.
Click to expand...

the Toyota master has spoken - its as good as fixed now ;D
 

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