HELP!!!!!!! with my brakes!!!!!

[Dain Bramage]

k, so i got a set of rotors for my truck. my question is, how do i get the damn rotor off the truck??? i took off the cap with the locker dial in it, and i took the nuts off of the base of the hub, and it wont come off.

 

[heep70]

You gotta take off alot more then that to get the rotor off. After taking off what you have so far you need to take the hub off to get to the spindle nut, washer and last spindle nut. Take them off. Then pull the whole assy off the spindle and then you can unbolt the rotor. The bolts are on the back that hold the rotor on.

 

[Dain Bramage]

damn, is that all??? (/sarcasm)

thanks, heep.

 

[Dain Bramage]

k, how hard should this be to get off? here is where i am at. i dont wanna hit the hub, because it looks like it deforms pretty easily, and when i pound on the back of the rotor, it doesnt do any thing. if this is where i need to be, i will just get a bigger hammer.

 

[mcbadwish]

Did you take those two big nuts out of there?

 

[Dain Bramage]

dunno what nuts your talking about. the only thing in there is a gear.

 

[TreeClimber]

Is there a c-clip? And is it removed?

 

[heep70]

First there is a keeper ring around the end of the stub, take it off. Then the six crown washer holding the hub (silver part) on need to come out. Sometimes a nice pop with a hammer helps. Soak them down with WD40 or something. Once the silver part is off (hub) then you will see the big spindle nuts. I think it is a 36mm socket. Take the spinle nuts off and the the whole rotor assy will come off. Then on back are the bolts that hold the rotor on.


Let me make a suggestion. Get a manual. You will need it to re assy ai all back together. There are torq specs to follow.

 

[Dain Bramage]

hitting the hub wont deform it?

 

[heep70]

Pop it right above the cone washers. Not a hard hit. Soak the washer first.

 

[Dain Bramage]

thanks, guys, i got it. god, these things are a bitch if you dont know what you are doing!!!

torque specs would be much appreciated.

also, i do have a chiltons manual, but it doesnt tell you how to do all that. should i get a manual from toyota, or can you suggest a better one?

 

[MonsterMazda]

or try a small screwdriver that fits in the crack on the cone washer, anything to get it to back out the slightest

 

[heep70]

Haynes manaul will do.

 

[64FJ40]

For this job, a big old brass drift is your friend.

Use it to pound on those lockout studs to pop the cone washers out (without deforming the end of the stud). They'll come out nice and easy with the right tool. I've also had decent results using the miniature flathead screwdriver, but more often than not, the slot is all gunked up and I've broken a couple little screwdrivers trying to tap them in there.

Use it to pound on the wheel lugs since they go through the rotor and seat into the hub. Use it to pound the lugs back in once you get the new rotor bolted to the hub assembly (the drift isn't as critical for protecting the lugs, but for access since the heads are recessed into the back side of the rotor). With new rotors, the spline fit is really tight, so just pulling them in with the lug nut over some washers is tough, but do-able if you'd rather pull them in that way.

Good luck.

 

[Dain Bramage]

thanks 64FJ40. i just got back from test driving it. i ended up just tapping the hub with a ball-peen. worked pretty good.

 

[Dain Bramage]

if anyone in monroe has a socket that will fit the spindle nuts and knows the torque specs, lemme know.

 

[notstock]

I do have the socket & a Factory Service Manual we can copy & print the appropriate pages out of.

 

[crash2]

I will be in my shop till around 10 tonight (out in goldbar) if ya need anything... Just send me a PM