High Angle D-line yokes

Boonie Buster · Mar 28, 2008

I am looking for a place to buy high angle/clearance yokes for my dana 44 front and chevy np231 t-case front output, in the 1310 u-joint size...?

I am also looking for a weld-in yoke for the d-line itself, i am going single-single yoke style joints on each end, one end will have a long-travel yoke assembly on it already, but i need a 1310 yoke for the other end that will go into a 2.5" .120 wall tube(what the other side will accept).

Any ideas/places/suggestions???:corn:

TreeClimber · Mar 28, 2008

Try Tom Woods.

He also has an easy fix, with a high clearance 1310 joint.

jeepmauler · Mar 28, 2008

I run that joint in the rear of my buggy,1350 version, and it does add a substantial amount of operating angle BUT it does add a fair amount of vibes as well.As far as yokes go...I grind the fawk outa my yokes with both a grinder and a carbide bur for more angle..... works well.I'd go to pull-apart for random yokes for making a driveline.

Boonie Buster · Mar 28, 2008

jeepmauler said:
I run that joint in the rear of my buggy,1350 version, and it does add a substantial amount of operating angle BUT it does add a fair amount of vibes as well.As far as yokes go...I grind the fawk outa my yokes with both a grinder and a carbide bur for more angle..... works well.I'd go to pull-apart for random yokes for making a driveline.

Ok, what about the weld in one on the d-line itself, I can/have enough yokes to mess up on the t-case and axle, but i need a 1310 yoke for the "dumb" end of the d-line

jeepmauler · Mar 28, 2008

I still say scrounge around at pull-apart. I have a lathe(@ work) so cutiing apart donor drivlines is much easier... but with a portaband or sawsall you could still get the yokes you need.

Boonie Buster · Mar 28, 2008

jeepmauler said:
I still say scrounge around at pull-apart. I have a lathe(@ work) so cutiing apart donor drivlines is much easier... but with a portaband or sawsall you could still get the yokes you need.

I am just trying to figure out what dia. the weld-on yokes are for retubing them with 2.5" .120 wall... But i think a trip to PAP is in order now...soon as it stops raining

JThompson · Mar 28, 2008

My yoke have hella clearance. Just build a hybrid Toy/Chev d-line... There are custom Toy-to-? flanges for decent prices out there. Were you still looking into that 12" slip-spline?

Boonie Buster · Mar 28, 2008

Ya, i found one that is 7" useable travel for $135. we shall see... that might be an option too, but i am hoping to maybe use as much of the stuff i have now, instead of totally rechanging (buying) all new flanges and junk.

Robinhood · Mar 28, 2008

I just put together a longer slip front driveline my self it was 2.5 by .120 wall I got the donner d-line from the rear of an explorer and the 7" slip from Arizona drivelines.

Boonie Buster · Mar 28, 2008

Robinhood said:
I just put together a longer slip front driveline my self it was 2.5 by .120 wall I got the donner d-line from the rear of an explorer and the 7" slip from Arizona drivelines.

That's what i like to hear (that's where i am getting the slip from) so the exploder rear works huh?

Robinhood · Mar 30, 2008

Yea I went to Pull a part and got one it was an after market one but as long as the tube dia. was the same as stock a stock one should work.

Cascade_Crawler · Mar 31, 2008

dont use 120 wall tube. Drivelines NW is where I got my weld yokes and slip section for my Drivelines. PAP is a good idea also. Chop saw, sawzall, portaband all will work to cut through the old weld. Get a big hammer and dont cut too deep.

Boonie Buster · Mar 31, 2008

Why not 120 wall? too thick/thin? so exploder rear d-line... what dia. were the yokes you got for?

Cascade_Crawler · Mar 31, 2008

the yokes for the thickest tube I could get was for 120 wall, but I used .25 because my driveline gets hammered. 120 wall just seems thin to me, but you could make it work :beer:

Boonie Buster · Mar 31, 2008

I think .120 would be ok, how much did the yoke/slip run you?

Cascade_Crawler · Mar 31, 2008

$20 for a weld yoke, but I actaully used a slip section from a cherokee front driveline, my bad :redneck:

Call them and ask they should have them.

Boonie Buster · Mar 31, 2008

That's not bad for the yokes, i think i might still get the long slip from arizonadlines though...:eeek:

EDIT: also got to fish for some more t-case and pinion yokes at PAP soon, to get this thing rolling

JThompson · Mar 31, 2008

Cascade_Crawler said:
the yokes for the thickest tube I could get was for 120 wall, but I used .25 because my driveline gets hammered. 120 wall just seems thin to me, but you could make it work :beer:

Most d-line shops use .120 as a standard. I think it is fine. That is what is on most rigs. I have heard of some people using .250 with great reviews. Why not build it stronger if you can? But, if .120 is easiest, I have no problem with it. My .02