How much engine tilt is too much?

bobbed_84_toy · Dec 9, 2010

How far can I safely lean my engine back? Haven't actually put a angle finder on it yet, but this looks like it's 10-15 degrees back. Trying to get the front driveshaft under the clutch fork.

chainsaw · Dec 9, 2010

When it no longer gets oil pressure.

bobbed_84_toy · Dec 9, 2010

chainsaw said:
When it no longer gets oil pressure.

That's about what I figured. It may end up getting tilted back a few more degrees. Oh the joys of building around rockwells

Flat-Bed_3rd_Gen · Dec 10, 2010

chainsaw said:
When it no longer gets oil pressure.

yeah but figure alot of this sport is uphill so it might have oil pressure on flat ground, but will it have it on an incline?

tomsbrokeagain · Dec 10, 2010

Flat-Bed_3rd_Gen said:
yeah but figure alot of this sport is uphill so it might have oil pressure on flat ground, but will it have it on an incline?

Dry sump with a really big tank!:redneck:

Really I would go with as close to stock as you can:awesomework: If you question the angle at least add an accumulator.

chainsaw · Dec 10, 2010

FTW! ^^^^ Drive shaft could be a concern as well....but prolly not.

crash2 · Dec 10, 2010

Why worry--you won't get that far

Just sayin...

Bill · Dec 10, 2010

don't remember the name of buggy but seen a 502 set at a slight angle of center to keep it low on rocks

bobbed_84_toy · Dec 10, 2010

crash said:
Why worry--you won't get that far

Just sayin...

You're probably right:fawkdancesmiley:

boxboy · Dec 10, 2010

I would worry more about u-joint binding the more you angle down the more the input shaft on the tcase points upward. But really it doesn't look like you currently have that issue (yet)

tomsbrokeagain · Dec 10, 2010

Shot in the dark here, but what about narrowing that side of axle to offset the input on the diff?

Or you could mount the powertrain angled (not strait fore and aft) to better clear driveline?

WHITE TRASH1 · Dec 10, 2010

Thats not enough tilt that I'd start to worry about oiling. If anything I'd either switch to a two piece dront shaft to go around the clutch fork or switch to internal slave hedraulic.

bobbed_84_toy · Dec 10, 2010

WHITE TRASH said:
Thats not enough tilt that I'd start to worry about oiling. If anything I'd either switch to a two piece dront shaft to go around the clutch fork or switch to internal slave hedraulic.

I've been thinking about a two piece drive shaft. Its going to be about 5 feet long anyways

Edit: Tell me more about this internal slave. Are they available for NP435's?

bobbed_84_toy · Dec 10, 2010

tomsbrokeagain said:
Dry sump with a really big tank!:redneck:

Really I would go with as close to stock as you can:awesomework: If you question the angle at least add an accumulator.

I would love to go dry sump :bling:

I do have an accumulator laying around for it.

boxboy said:
I would worry more about u-joint binding the more you angle down the more the input shaft on the tcase points upward. But really it doesn't look like you currently have that issue (yet)

Not too worried about the u-joint binding. The front driveshaft is going to be long.

tomsbrokeagain said:
Shot in the dark here, but what about narrowing that side of axle to offset the input on the diff?

Or you could mount the powertrain angled (not strait fore and aft) to better clear driveline?

I could narrow the short side, but I'd rather have an off the shelf replacement shaft available. I don't know if you could angle it enough to make much of a difference. I'm going to have to do some research on an internal slave setup. Then I could set it up considerably lower

tomsbrokeagain · Dec 10, 2010

bobbed_84_toy said:
I could narrow the short side, but I'd rather have an off the shelf replacement shaft available. I don't know if you could angle it enough to make much of a difference. I'm going to have to do some research on an internal slave setup. Then I could set it up considerably lower

Yes, yes you can narrow the short side "and" use an off the shelf short shaft. Put two stubs together and get a really short side:awesomework:

Wait the side that needs narrowed is the short side:eeek: right?

Bill · Dec 10, 2010

bobbed_84_toy said:
I've been thinking about a two piece drive shaft. Its going to be about 5 feet long anyways

Edit: Tell me more about this internal slave. Are they available for NP435's?

my buddy used an internal slave on his 435 but had to do a little machining on the input housing...no big deal

WHITE TRASH1 · Dec 11, 2010

bobbed_84_toy said:
I've been thinking about a two piece drive shaft. Its going to be about 5 feet long anyways

Edit: Tell me more about this internal slave. Are they available for NP435's?

HERE is a start. You very well may be able to use an off the shelf bearing beings ferd has used them for years.

bobbed_84_toy · Dec 11, 2010

Bill said:
my buddy used an internal slave on his 435 but had to do a little machining on the input housing...no big deal

WHITE TRASH said:
HERE is a start. You very well may be able to use an off the shelf bearing beings ferd has used them for years.

Awesome. Thanks for the advice guys, looks like this is the way to go.

bobbed_84_toy · Dec 13, 2010

After a little research, looks like it's a simple swap to internal slave on these things. Rotated the engine back down to just a few degrees of tilt, and threw some tube at it yesterday.

brokenparts · Dec 14, 2010

I think the rule of thumb is not to exceed 6-8 degree and 4 degrees being the sweet spot. I think the number varies depending on who you talk to. I set my big block up at 4 degrees although it looks like you have some issues trying to do that with those Rocks.