Hubs

bruce 1 · Jun 2, 2016

I have Yukon hubs on my D60 (new) I have about 200 miles on them and I have to use a crescent wrench to turn them, to locked or unlock them. I called Yukon and they said that is normal. They said some people make a tool to help in turning them. I have looked and can not find the tool. Does anyone have a picture of one they built?

Shortbus · Jun 2, 2016

I never knew such a thing existed.

I'm not sure if this one for Warn would work or not, but here's another pic of what seems to be really easy to fab.

John Galbreath Jr. · Jun 2, 2016

Mine are easy if not bound up. If you have just put pressure on them before unlocking, almost impossible without a tool. If possible, try to drive straight down a road for several hundred feet before unlocking.

I would also be interested in a tool.

smbroady82 · Jun 2, 2016

are you guys still running manual locking hubs as opposed to drive flanges to try to keep a "weak link" in the front end? just curious

John Galbreath Jr. · Jun 2, 2016

smbroady82 said:
are you guys still running manual locking hubs as opposed to drive flanges to try to keep a "weak link" in the front end? just curious

No, these break in locked position if broken. I run them, in case I break a ring and pinion or something else where I want to remove input from that axle or corner. Solo buggy runs four Yukon Hubs.

Posted with my thumbs from Tapatalk.

FlatlandFSJ · Jun 2, 2016

smbroady82 said:
are you guys still running manual locking hubs as opposed to drive flanges to try to keep a "weak link" in the front end? just curious

I'm running 1 lock out and 1 flange on the front. It's my poor mans locker. My school bus doesn't like to turn being welded front and rear, pop the one hub and it turns around much better.

smbroady82 · Jun 2, 2016

JohnG said:
No, these break in locked position if broken. I run them, in case I break a ring and pinion or something else where I want to remove input from that axle or corner. Solo buggy runs four Yukon Hubs.

Posted with my thumbs from Tapatalk.

Are you talking about when you break, being able to take a shaft out and still run around?

My solids came with some hardware that I can put back on if I pull a shaft and still want to wheel.

I may be way off base here.

FlatlandFSJ said:
I'm running 1 lock out and 1 flange on the front. It's my poor mans locker. My school bus doesn't like to turn being welded front and rear, pop the one hub and it turns around much better.

Dillon , that's brilliant ! Get your buddy to ride with you, got a tight turn coming up... " hey man, get out and unlock the hub so we can make this turn.." :rolf:

tonybolton · Jun 2, 2016

FlatlandFSJ said:
I'm running 1 lock out and 1 flange on the front. It's my poor mans locker. My school bus doesn't like to turn being welded front and rear, pop the one hub and it turns around much better.

LOL....I was thinking of doing this, going in half'sies with a buddy on some of the Yukons. Welded diffs front/rear and drive flanges makes for some forceful turning on pavement / trail riding sometimes. Would be nice to have a selectable hub on the drivers side to just hop out and kick unlocked for tight trail cruising.

John Galbreath Jr. · Jun 3, 2016

smbroady82 said:
Are you talking about when you break, being able to take a shaft out and still run around?

My solids came with some hardware that I can put back on if I pull a shaft and still want to wheel.

I may be way off base here.

Dillon , that's brilliant ! Get your buddy to ride with you, got a tight turn coming up... " hey man, get out and unlock the hub so we can make this turn.."

No, reason it that I have broke a few R&P. Just moving it to flat ground to unload the drive flange enough to get the splines out has ruined two ARB air lockers from the ring gear teeth going through the locker. With the Yukon hubs, I can get a tool and turn the hubs, take that end of the transfer case out of gear, and roll back to camp with NOTHING moving in the rear end. I hate expensive breaks.

muddinmetal · Jun 3, 2016

Shortbus said:
I never knew such a thing existed.

I'm not sure if this one for Warn would work or not, but here's another pic of what seems to be really easy to fab.

That tool looks more like a toy for a tool if ya know what I mean....

smbroady82 · Jun 3, 2016

JohnG said:
No, reason it that I have broke a few R&P. Just moving it to flat ground to unload the drive flange enough to get the splines out has ruined two ARB air lockers from the ring gear teeth going through the locker. With the Yukon hubs, I can get a tool and turn the hubs, take that end of the transfer case out of gear, and roll back to camp with NOTHING moving in the rear end. I hate expensive breaks.

10-4, that makes sense
I'm with ya now

jayphizzle · Jun 3, 2016

JohnG said:
No, reason it that I have broke a few R&P. Just moving it to flat ground to unload the drive flange enough to get the splines out has ruined two ARB air lockers from the ring gear teeth going through the locker. With the Yukon hubs, I can get a tool and turn the hubs, take that end of the transfer case out of gear, and roll back to camp with NOTHING moving in the rear end. I hate expensive breaks.

This is why he is our sensei.............

FlatlandFSJ · Jun 3, 2016

Could you just make an oversized grinder wrench? 2 nubs welded off the side of a handle, stick one nub on the top of one side and the bottom of the other side and turn :dunno:

John Galbreath Jr. · Jun 3, 2016

FlatlandFSJ said:
Could you just make an oversized grinder wrench? 2 nubs welded off the side of a handle, stick one nub on the top of one side and the bottom of the other side and turn

That sounds like that would work. May try that when I am able to get back in the shop again.