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If You Had To Choose One...

Which one?

  • CTM U-Joints

    Votes: 6 9.2%
  • Chromo Shafts

    Votes: 15 23.1%
  • Boobies

    Votes: 44 67.7%

  • Total voters
    65

Boonie Buster

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What would it be...

CTM U-joints or Chromo Shafts? Why?

We have been discussing this matter amongst members of our clique lately. And I'm curious as to what the masses would choose.

For the sake of argument I would choose CTM joints over chromo shafts. IDEALLY I would take both, ,but for now i'm choosing, not that I wholey believe this is the right choice... so here goes...

I figure with the stronger of the two being u-joints. the likely hood of ruining both the shaft and u-joints are less likely. if you were to break a CTM it's warrantied. but the stock shafts aren't, so finding one would be still easy and cheap.

Now, a down side would be that your weak point is the shaft and if you broke one you run the risk of messing up internals. but I feel it's no more likely to ruin them than if the weaker of the two was the u-joint, which if the u-joint was the weaker, i feel if it broke it would more than likely take out the chromo shafts with it (correct me if i'm wrong on this because i'm not truely sure if it would mess up the ears on the shaft or not)... i'll add more as it comes to mind, but this should be enough to start what i hope is a good discussion...
 
I wouldn't do one without the other... if I was forced to choose, I would stick with stock joints and stock shafts and carry spares until I could afford to do both.
 
I wouldn't do one without the other... if I was forced to choose, I would stick with stock joints and stock shafts and carry spares until I could afford to do both.


IDEALLY that's what i would do too, (that's why i run stock shafts:redneck: ) but if you were forced to choose ONE of the other. what would you choose:stirpot: :corn:
 
Yeah, I'd get the shafts. A spicer u-joint is mighty strong, and you could send them to bobby long and have them treated.

I like the idea of having bobby treat them... how much is that? I partly think i would get the shafts first myself just because like you say the ease of replacing a u-joint is way easier to replace
 
Def. the shafts. Most likely they will take the abuse of popping a u-joint as long as you catch it right away and u-joints are an easy swap and easier to carry as spares than different size shafts. But why...shell out some cash and buy the yukon/super joint setup for just over what a pair of CTM's cost :rolleyes:
 
Is this a hypothetical question, or is this something you're actually going to do? Either way, I still stand beside my original answer. I wouldn't choose, I would wait. Both are expensive parts... it would suck to destroy a CTM or an inner or outer shaft due to pairing it up with inferior parts.
 
Is this a hypothetical question, or is this something you're actually going to do? Either way, I still stand beside my original answer. I wouldn't choose, I would wait. Both are expensive parts... it would suck to destroy a CTM or an inner or outer shaft due to pairing it up with inferior parts.


Totally Hypothetical...

I would do both at the same time. There's no sense in wasting money, then worrying if one or the other is going to fail because of the weaker of the two:looser:
 
just buy bobs joints. ctms cost too much for no reason:rolleyes: . plus after you stretch out your cap openings on the axles, bob sells oversize knurled caps to get some more miles out of them. keep your money local.:cool:
 
My choice would depend on what size axles. I would put cro-mo shafts in a Dana 60.A dana 60 U-joint is pretty strong in stock form.

If it is a dana 44 , I would not waste money on either....the broke shafts will destroy the CTM joint, and the stock joint will destroy the cro-mo shafts.
 
My choice would depend on what size axles. I would put cro-mo shafts in a Dana 60.A dana 60 U-joint is pretty strong in stock form.

If it is a dana 44 , I would not waste money on either....the broke shafts will destroy the CTM joint, and the stock joint will destroy the cro-mo shafts.
Exactly what Robin said.:D, and if you buy some joints I would go with the Longs Not CTMs. Why waiste your extra money on something that isnt any stronger.
 
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Exactly what Robin said.:D, and if you buy some joints I would go with the Longs Not CTMs. Why waiste your extra money on something that isnt any stronger.

ya, agreed, i just threw out the name cus people would know what kind of joint i was talking about...stronger than stock:D
 
it's ear's breaking that wipes out u joint's???????90% of the time. Chromo shaft's and spicer U joints.

Here's a question, where are we getting spicer joint's nowaday's? Now that Dana/ Spicer is out of business are we living off of a stockpile, or is somebody else making them?
 
it's ear's breaking that wipes out u joint's???????90% of the time. Chromo shaft's and spicer joints.

how do you figure that 300m can be ruined by a soft shaft?? i understand ears are usually to blame on stocks sfafts and spicers. couldnt you chuck up a ctm or long joint and machine a spicer axle into shavings?? i dont know of anybody that has killed a longfield joint of 300m material regardless of shaft choice.:D
 
My choice would depend on what size axles. I would put cro-mo shafts in a Dana 60.A dana 60 U-joint is pretty strong in stock form.

If it is a dana 44 , I would not waste money on either....the broke shafts will destroy the CTM joint, and the stock joint will destroy the cro-mo shafts.

Speaking from very recent experience, this is not always true. I snapped a Warn Chromoly D44 front shaft, and it didn't damage the cross of the CTM at all. The broken shaft did damage two of the CTM caps, however they can be salvaged with very very moderate amount of work.

attachment.php


I run both, as does Jpfreak. I've seen him snap a CTM first, and I've done the opposite. So both are good. If I were to only do one, it'd be the shafts first, as it's easier to carry a spare U joint than a spare set of shafts. And alloy shafts hold up well to a broken stock joint.

But I voted for Boobies:awesomework:
 
how do you figure that 300m can be ruined by a soft shaft?? i understand ears are usually to blame on stocks sfafts and spicers. couldnt you chuck up a ctm or long joint and machine a spicer axle into shavings?? i dont know of anybody that has killed a longfield joint of 300m material regardless of shaft choice.:D

I didn't say it would, I said a factory joint hold's up fine, and that it's the ear's breaking that wipes them (factory joint) out. Quit trying to read between the lines please. Though it does kill cap's, not too many people carry around spare long or ctm cap's, where if you snap a spicer you can knock the broken **** out of you're chromo and slap in a new joint. Not that this is my ideal, but pretending if you had to have one or the other I feel that it's the better option.
 
Speaking from very recent experience, this is not always true. I snapped a Warn Chromoly D44 front shaft, and it didn't damage the cross of the CTM at all. The broken shaft did damage two of the CTM caps, however they can be salvaged with very very moderate amount of work.

attachment.php


I run both, as does Jpfreak. I've seen him snap a CTM first, and I've done the opposite. So both are good. If I were to only do one, it'd be the shafts first, as it's easier to carry a spare U joint than a spare set of shafts. And alloy shafts hold up well to a broken stock joint.

But I voted for Boobies:awesomework:

I've just recently broken a Yukon Shaft in similar fashion. The outer stub shaft broke and it didn't damage the cross of the Yukon Super Joint at all, just tweaked the caps a little.

J
 

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