Kinda want welder, prolly used, need help

[Nuzzy]

Obviously to be a self respecting male, I need a welder at some point. I've used stick and wire feed in the past and am open to both. Basically here's the issue... I (in no uncertain terms) will not be allocating the funds at this particular time for a brand new or high end used machine. I will be buying something very nice someday, but that will not be soon However, if I was able to find one for say under $300-400, I MIGHT be interested. Knowing full well it may be a throw away welder in a few years. Or knowing it may be an ancient machine that beyond all odds is still working.

Can it be done or will it just piss me off?

I may be able to fairly easily pull a 220 into the garage but all it has now is 110. Would I get more welding power for the money by going with a stick welder? I would think so but I may be way off...

If I was looking at older welders on craigslist, what things should be stayed away from?

Discuss:corn:

 

[Nuzzy]

Would I get more welding power for the money by going with a stick welder?

To clarify: Using gross generalizations, will a $400 stick welder penetrate deeper material than a $400 wire feed as a general rule being that it seems to be a much simpler, thus more cost effective machine?

 

[64FJ40]

Is this for your frame cracks? Or just general duty farm repair-type stuff?

 

[Nuzzy]

Is this for your frame cracks? Or just general duty farm repair-type stuff?

Not sure I'd trust myself welding on my frame just yet :redneck: But I can't say I wouldn't get bold...


What are your differing thoughts regarding those different scenarios?

Honesty is fine and appreciated



**Edit** fwiw any and all frame cracks would be fish plated, not just butt welded.

 

[64FJ40]

Honesty part: I'm not an expert by any means, but I've got a couple of the sub-$400 welders in stick and wire-feed varieties.

I think, as a general rule, stick welders give a lot more weld/$, but just aren't the best tool for a lot (read: a large majority) of jobs. There is a reason they're so cheap on CL - nobody wants to use them anymore unless they're doing structural work. Purely for the cleanup factor alone, I almost never use my stick welder unless I need more penetration than my little wire-feed can do.

 

[crazybluerider1]

I have been really happy with my miller 130 for a 110v welder. I built a lot of bumpers and winch mounts with it and even on roll cage. It will weld 1/4" with a little work. I would not be afraid to do some light frame repair with it. However I don't think I would be building a buggy with it. 220v machines are certainly easy to work with but a good 110v machine should get you where you want to go.

 

[CrustyJeep]

To clarify: Using gross generalizations, will a $400 stick welder penetrate deeper material than a $400 wire feed as a general rule being that it seems to be a much simpler, thus more cost effective machine?

Absolutely. You can easily find an AC/DC Lincoln tomb stone for well under $400 used that will weld circles around a comparably priced MIG.

You might consider some used cheap ass off brand POS 110 volt MIG for tacking and thin material, and a Lincoln AC tombstone (or AC/DC if you get lucky and find a good deal) and stay under $400 for both.

 

[darius]

You'll definitely get more power per dollar with a lincoln tombstone, but personally I would take a used 110v waaaay before an arc welder. 95% of the time you will be able to handle task's at hand with a 110v wire welder. Having to find a buddy or whatever that other 5% of the time is worth it to me if you needed something thick, crucial, or odd metal done. The pure ease of a wire welder makes it worth it to me. I work in a welding environment, and the only time I use stick is when it's the only way (mild steel to cast) or on the trail.

 

[Binder]

Real men burn stick. If you have a hair on your ass that's what you will do to.:flipoff:

 

[Roccrawler]

Nuzzy,
If you ever get back up this way I will give you my stick welder... :beer:

 

[Nuzzy]

I guess my concern with the small MIGs is that most of them claim to go up to 3/16ths whereas many of the parts I can foresee welding would be 1/4". I'm fine with the process of (forgive lack of proper terms) knocking off the flux after stick welding. I used to use stick primarily when resurfacing tractor buckets and teeth back in the landscaping days.

I know MIG is more user friendly but I would hate to get something and then not be able to use it for jobs I want to.

Then again, MIG is prolly a ton easier on my newbie ass...

 

[Nuzzy]

Nuzzy,
If you ever get back up this way I will give you my stick welder... :beer:

You have a pm

 

[Not Jobless]

I will be buying something very nice someday, but that will not be soon

Time to start pimped out the old lady...a man has to have priorities :redneck: :fawkdancesmiley:

 

[Nuzzy]

Time to start pimped out the old lady...a man has to have priorities :redneck: :fawkdancesmiley:

They keep returning her for refund claiming the Lemon Law :booo::booo:

 

[Not Jobless]

They keep returning her for refund claiming the Lemon Law :booo::booo:

Shoulda used PIMPfax :haha: :fawkdancesmiley:

 

[Nuzzy]

Troy,

Thank you. I'll chat with my Dad and get the pick up figured out...

I owe you many :beer:s

 

[Trailtoy1993]

I got my Lincoln weldpak 155 sitting in a corner doing nothing. It is a 155amp 220vac wire feed with the gas kit on it. I've used it to do everything from sheet metal to fairly heavy fab work and you can actually burn up to about 1/4 in one pass (just overheats and shuts down if you run to hot to long) (duty cycle, why I have a mm250 now) I was keeping it for sheet metal work but last sheet I did I used the miller so **** it $350 its yours if you come around for it:redneck:

 

[TigTorch]

Hey Nuzzy,

Stick electrode (SMAW) is an excellent process. It requires a lot of practice to be good at though. The little 400 dollar bus boxes run very well. If you go that route make sure its DC current and is a name brand so you can get parts. SMAW is becoming rare these days as its being all but replaced by hi amperage dual shield wire feed processes.

Wire feeders (MIG) require less practice to become proficent in making strong and nice looking welds. They're lots more money though. The only negative about MIG is that its possible (but rare) to make a nice looking weld that has no penetration if you work the electrode incorrectly (cold lap).

Try to find a used machine; like a cresent wrench or Hi-lift jack, welders don't really wear out. The name brand stuff is always worth fixing.

Also, welders run smoother if you dont run them at the limits of their amperage.

Short answer IMHO: Look for a used 250 amp Miller wire feeder.:awesomework:

 

[Breaker]

Welders

I'm old school in that I learned to weld with gas. Then learned to wire with a stick. Of course a wire feed will be much easier for you to learn to weld with, and will do most of the welding you may need. I still use my Old tomestone for heavy welding. Or I'll use the Ranger 9 when I need alot of power for thick deep welds. Or to tig.

Learn to weld from someone that has good looking welds or take a class.. Most welds are done way to fast...

Good luck

 

[TigTorch]

Breaker, your the Man. Going back to the good old days!

No one talks about Oxy-acetylene any more. Its unique in that your heat control is independent of your filler metal control. When you think about it Tig welding is just Oxy-acetylene welding with a hotter electric arc.

I Tig weld everything anymore to stay in practice, but if I didn't have that setup I'd still be picking up the gas torch on occasion. Gas welding offers excellent heat control and tolerates contamination (grease, oil, rust, ect) well.

Remember brazing. Remember flame straightening. Remember burning out broken bolts with oxygen. Gonna need a set of tanks for all that.:stirpot: