branum
New Member
hey guys im runnin dual batteries with an isolater. and a brand new alternater, and im loosin power like no other. im new on here so and tips would be great. and on how to use the web sight too
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loosin power
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branum
New Member
loosin power on my 85
hey guys im new on here i gto an 85 yota on a 8inch. but im runnin dual batteries with an isolater, and i brand new alternater. and my batteries are dyin. any hints?
hey guys im new on here i gto an 85 yota on a 8inch. but im runnin dual batteries with an isolater, and i brand new alternater. and my batteries are dyin. any hints?
isolaters will drain the batts as it keeps trying to use one batt to charge the other when the engine is not running. you need a switch to turn it off or get one with an automatic shutoff. I prefer using a battery management sylinoid like the one painless sells or just set it up with a winch sylinoid.
TreeClimber
Well-Known Member
Threads have been merged together and moved into General Tech Talk.
TreeClimber, Tech Mod.
And I too an REALLY not a fan of Battery Isolators. I like the Marine/RV switch for batteries the best. Although a Continuous Duty Solinoid works well too.
For your situation, I'd take the Isolator and second battery out of the rig and simplify your wiring. Then see if you can isolate a battery draw. Easiest way is to use a multimeter to check for minute battery amperage loss, but if you don't have a multimeter (and you can't borrow one) then hook up everything (without the other battery and isolator) and remove the ground from the remaining good battery. As you touch the ground to the battery, you'll see a small spark. Pay close attention to the spark size. The smaller the spark, the smaller the battery drain. IF it's an almost non-existant spark or no spark at all, you have virtually no battery drain. IF it's a big ass'd spark, you've got a big ass'd drain on the system. So now you start individually pulling fuses from the panel (start with anything that's aftermarket'd wired into the truck) and after each fuse is pulled, repeat the ground/spark test. When you've removed the spark at the ground by pulling the fuse, that means you've isolated the circuit on which you've got a problem.
Good luck
TreeClimber, Tech Mod.
And I too an REALLY not a fan of Battery Isolators. I like the Marine/RV switch for batteries the best. Although a Continuous Duty Solinoid works well too.
For your situation, I'd take the Isolator and second battery out of the rig and simplify your wiring. Then see if you can isolate a battery draw. Easiest way is to use a multimeter to check for minute battery amperage loss, but if you don't have a multimeter (and you can't borrow one) then hook up everything (without the other battery and isolator) and remove the ground from the remaining good battery. As you touch the ground to the battery, you'll see a small spark. Pay close attention to the spark size. The smaller the spark, the smaller the battery drain. IF it's an almost non-existant spark or no spark at all, you have virtually no battery drain. IF it's a big ass'd spark, you've got a big ass'd drain on the system. So now you start individually pulling fuses from the panel (start with anything that's aftermarket'd wired into the truck) and after each fuse is pulled, repeat the ground/spark test. When you've removed the spark at the ground by pulling the fuse, that means you've isolated the circuit on which you've got a problem.
Good luck
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
That's one way, of course being a master tech, I happen to have a cool little tool by Midtronics called an 'amp clamp'; no need to disconnect battery---just clamp to each wire coming off either batt post(or all of them for quick test); this neat tool will sense a drain as low as 10 milliamps-->usually anything less than 100ma will be just fine,especially if you have a bunch of circuits with 'keep alive memory'(ie-stereo,some cb's,hams,etc..); if you clamp onto wire and there's excess draw, you've isolated the problem ckt---trace the source of the draw there and repair it!!!:awesomework:
You did'nt mention if the batteries were new. Have you tested them? Midtronics also makes a neat little tester that works pretty well-although to thoroughly test a batt I am a firm believer in the 'ol tried and true VAT40 load tester....oh, and make sure the batteries are the same brand/type/age; otherwise they will just fight each other trying to keep an equal charge with each other....seen that TOO MANY TIMES ON DIESELS with slow cranking issues!!(owner tries to save a buck-ends up costing in long run!!!)
You did'nt mention if the batteries were new. Have you tested them? Midtronics also makes a neat little tester that works pretty well-although to thoroughly test a batt I am a firm believer in the 'ol tried and true VAT40 load tester....oh, and make sure the batteries are the same brand/type/age; otherwise they will just fight each other trying to keep an equal charge with each other....seen that TOO MANY TIMES ON DIESELS with slow cranking issues!!(owner tries to save a buck-ends up costing in long run!!!)
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