• Help Support Hardline Crawlers :

lower link idea...

Speeding

Forum member #1
Hardline Crawler
Joined
May 16, 2007
Messages
4,575
Reaction score
8
Location
murfreesboro, tn
Thinking outside the box. I'd like to try to use 2x4 (or 3x5 if they make it) rectangular tubing for my lower links. Cut small wedges out of the tubing, bend closed, and weld back to clearance them. Weld a peice of tubing on one end for a bushing and a threaded insert welded in on the frame end for a JJ/flexjoint. Anybody seen anything like this? I searched PBB and didn't find much. Do you think with the bent shape it would put a bunch of stress on the bushing at all times?
 
look at the rockherII and some others. yep, you can do it, and you can pinch the ends down to save room. the only parts that need to have some wall height are the parts farthest from the ends (middle) and the part with the bend.
Do you have an HP rear? your dshaft will be in the way and you will ruin it after you move your links up.
why not put your link center line above the top of the axle tube and use 8" of separation to set your uppers?
 
blacksheep10 said:
look at the rockherII and some others. yep, you can do it, and you can pinch the ends down to save room. the only parts that need to have some wall height are the parts farthest from the ends (middle) and the part with the bend.
Do you have an HP rear? your dshaft will be in the way and you will ruin it after you move your links up.
why not put your link center line above the top of the axle tube and use 8" of separation to set your uppers?

No HP, but the wheelbase will be so short and the pinion is turned up so much I don't think it'll be much of an issue. Plus I'm not going to bend them like 90 degrees. Maybe 20, tops. I want the lowers to be as flat as possible so mounting high on the tube will happen either way. Just trying to do something different, but I might get frustrated and go with tubing like everyone else when the time comes. ;D

Question though, is it worth it to triangulate the lowers if I already have frame mounts for straight lowers? Just don't know what the big benefit is other than less rear-steer.
 
Speeding said:
Question though, is it worth it to triangulate the lowers if I already have frame mounts for straight lowers? Just don't know what the big benefit is other than less rear-steer.

Keep the axel from walking sideways.
 
And also your less likely to hang on triangulated lowers as the taper inward and up under the driveshaft typically... giving them more clearance over a bracket mounted on the bottom of your frame rail.

( Matt can attest to hanging up on said straight lowers ) If the mounts are beefy *like matts* then you just hit them harder, if not your hung and pivot off of them.


square tube just looks ghetto to me. laughing
 
Why use square tube? It is heavier and does not look as good. You have the RE skid which somewhat tucks the links up and out of the way so I would run with that for simplicity and cost
 
I've seen a few links that were 3"x5" that they cut down the ends to a taper.
Most of them were also drilled and sleeved down the side so they looked very desert racetruck style.
And all of them were on 49"s or 54"s "Streettrucks"
 
P said:
square tube just looks ghetto to me. laughing

X2
afro.gif
 
If you want high clearance links get Bailey to bend some ROUND tube like they do for all the rigs they link. It works and looks better than square
 
BamaTJ said:
If you want high clearance links get Bailey to bend some ROUND tube like they do for all the rigs they link. It works and looks better than square

I have a 2" die if you feel real manly you can do 2" x.250 wall and get a nice work out to boot laughing
 
I mostly want to do it to be different from all you guys. :flipoff1: If I end up using round I won't bother to clearance it.
 
triangulated lowers are better for many reasons, most have been covered. rear steer sucks ****ing balls on a rig that has a straight rear axle. it makes you "hump" an obstacle that you're off camber on.
you can do the square tube, but why not just get some sheet metal and make your own tube with speed holes sleeved with tube skully
 
Back
Top