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Nope, just slap the new key in and go.With low hours compression shouldn't be an issue. If you removed the coil, gap the flywheel magnet and coil with a business card, and sand it if needed. If you check compression and it is low, more than likely its a valve issue.. Should have around 90 lbs with 3 pulls with choke off. 60 lbs of compression is generally what a wore engine that won't start has. Check the valve lash also, sometimes they are out pretty bad and can hinder starting, .010 and .008 should get you close, most all briggs engines have a website that give you the specs.. Just look up the engine model and code printed on your valve cover or engine shroud.If you positive of it having fire, and compression is good it all points at fuel issues. I've seen where the old rubber seats under the needle have swollen shut from old gas.P.M. and I will give my # if you need some help.
Nope, just slap the new key in and go.
With low hours compression shouldn't be an issue. If you removed the coil, gap the flywheel magnet and coil with a business card, and sand it if needed.
If you check compression and it is low, more than likely its a valve issue.. Should have around 90 lbs with 3 pulls with choke off. 60 lbs of compression is generally what a wore engine that won't start has. Check the valve lash also, sometimes they are out pretty bad and can hinder starting, .010 and .008 should get you close, most all briggs engines have a website that give you the specs.. Just look up the engine model and code printed on your valve cover or engine shroud.
If you positive of it having fire, and compression is good it all points at fuel issues.
I've seen where the old rubber seats under the needle have swollen shut from old gas.
P.M. and I will give my # if you need some help.
