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New Body and Paint Job

smr4runner

Well-Known Member
Joined
Apr 1, 2006
Messages
170
The solid white body on my clod was getting boring so I picked up another Tundra body, cut it up, and got creative.
This is my second body and paint job. It was abit of a challenge masking between colors but the end result wasn't too bad.
If any of you paint gurus has any suggestions on painting multi colors I'm all ears. There were a few mistakes that I had to correct.

Mike



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Nice work Mike! Looks like you did fine to me.

As far as tips go, I learned long ago that painting and masking are not things I'm great at, so for me, the secret is to keep it simple. It looks like you already are well beyond my skill level.

If you are seriously looking for painting stuff, I seem to remember rctech.net having a pretty popular thread with a lot of good information, as well as some tech articles.

Todd
 
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Todd1803 said:
Nice work Mike! Looks like you did fine to me.

As far as tips go, I learned long ago that painting and masking are not things I'm great at, so for me, the secret is to keep it simple. It looks like you already are well beyond my skill level.

If you are seriously looking for painting stuff, I seem to remember rctech.net having a pretty popular thread with a lot of good information, as well as some tech articles.

Todd

Thanks for the link Todd. Good masking info. I like the skull and will try to incorporate it on my TLT build.

Mike
 
TacOffRd said:
That's awesome Mike. Where are you getting the Tundra bodies at?

Hey Brent. The Tundra body is made by Parma for the T-Maxx. Its not made as well as the Proline or HPI bodies but you can find them at some of the LHS with price cut to about $15/$16 because they don't move as well. Plus with the cheap price I don't feel as bad cutting up the front and rear of the body to my liking.
 
smr4runner said:
Hey Brent. The Tundra body is made by Parma for the T-Maxx. Its not made as well as the Proline or HPI bodies but you can find them at some of the LHS with price cut to about $15/$16 because they don't move as well. Plus with the cheap price I don't feel as bad cutting up the front and rear of the body to my liking.
Do you know if those fit/work with my Gecko II chassis on the new clod? I'm not sure what kind of body I am getting with it. :D
 
TacOffRd said:
Do you know if those fit/work with my Gecko II chassis on the new clod? I'm not sure what kind of body I am getting with it. :D

Yes it will work with your Gecko. The clod based crawlers have so much flex that you will find that to avoid serious body rubbage you will have to cut. To avoid this some have mounted the body high above the chassis. I don't like it cause it looks so damn weird.
 
Todd1803 said:
Hey Mike, where did you get the body mounts, and how much were they, if you don't mind?

The body mounts I made.
They are 1/4 alum rod cut to size. The ends were rounded off then the whole rod smoothed to a shine using various grit sand paper. All was done on a drill press.
I found the stays at McClendons hardware.

Mike
 
crash said:
Nice work on the paint. I have found liquid mask to be the gods honey :D

I gotta try the liquid mask.
I think it would have saved soo much masking time.
Using the four colors, I had to mask three different times. The hood, roof , and both side panels. So basically 3x4 panels = 12 maskings. Yea, it was a pain.

I figure with the liquid mask I could have masked once, then cut back for the other three colors.
Shoot. Now I want to try it again on my Bronco body.
Oh and I bet I wouldn't have gotten any color bleeding like I got with tape.

Just an FYI. My goal is to get good enough so that I don't *uck up my FJ40 Landcruiser body (still in original sealed packaging). The body is just too rare and expensive to mess up.
Heck I might just leave it in its original packaging, box it up, store it, and sell when I can get double or triple what I bought it for.
 
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