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Off Road Engine Insurance

Wait you mean that's an oil accumulator??? I have one under the hood of the juggy and @Bebop told me it was a super secret NOS system. He still won't tell me where the button for it was located so I can't use it. He said something about "Danger to mainfold/floorboards falling out"
 
I have a question. It doesn't seem like a good idea to have the valve open when you first start it up as mentioned, due to it trying to fill the accumulator when the "dry" motor needs oil the most. Is the fill so slow that it doesn't reduce oiling immediately following startup?
I have the same accumulator setup to a MAST pan and and have always left it closed initially for that reason. But it might not matter. It also gives me the ability to discharge and oil before startup which I would probably do if I had a built motor.
 
@The-Boss : I was wondering about that when I installed my accumulator. So I measured the time it took for my oil pressure to reach normal operating levels with the accumulator open or closed and couldn't tell a big difference. It was about 1 second slower.

If you have a nice/built engine, and it has been sitting for a while, I'd use the pre-lube capabilities, because they are here. But a bunch of built engines in fancy road going cars that don't have an accumulator get started normally without many issues...

@BustedKnucklefilms : Sweet video !
 
That being said, I can see where the accumulator would come in handy during and after a rollover. But as far as startup on any given day, I wouldn't worry too much about it.
 
Yeah I wasn't trying to say pre oiling was needed. But if it's already there for other good reasons then why not on a high dollar build. Literally takes 2 seconds.
There are valves that will do it for you with ignition power as well.
I have never noticed my oil pressure be an issue without the accumulator open, but it is good insurance for flops and rollovers if you need it. Especially if someone else is driving that might not shut it down as fast as you.
 
I bought an inexpensive 12 volt valve and replaced the ball valve. I have it wired to my ignition. When i hit the ignition,it floods the oil system (pre lube) ,when i shut the ignition off it stores the oil under pressure. I dont know if it helps but i have not had to replace a engine because of oiling problems.
 
Interesting what Jake is saying about the LS oil pump. I'm running the Melling 10296 high volume/pressure pump. I put the lower pressure spring in it and my oil pressure sits just under 30lbs at hot idle and around 75lbs at WOT. So far I havnt see any issues with sucking the pan dry.....but I am running trap doors in the pan and an accumulator.

Anyone else experience sucking the pan dry?
 
1tonyj said:
Interesting what Jake is saying about the LS oil pump. I'm running the Melling 10296 high volume/pressure pump. I put the lower pressure spring in it and my oil pressure sits just under 30lbs at hot idle and around 75lbs at WOT. So far I havnt see any issues with sucking the pan dry.....but I am running trap doors in the pan and an accumulator.

Anyone else experience sucking the pan dry?
Click to expand...

It all depends on your engine.
If it's built accordingly (bearing clearances) you may benefit/need the high vol/press pump.

But for a stock clearance engine, I think that Jake is right, I'd run a standard pump.

PS : I have the same oil pump as you. In a stock block. Hot Idle at 55psi, 85psi at WOT. Knock on wood, so far so good.
 
You have to think about the oiling system like an other hydraulic/fluid system. The pump is rated for volume and pressure. Pressure is the resistance to flow. In an engine/oil system, it indicates the clearances in the oil journals. The numbers are also based on the pump that you are using. A higher pressure pump means that it can overcome a higher head pressure in the system, or it can flow more oil as the clearances tighten up. A high flow oil pump can blow past seals & PCVs too. Jake is correct that a high flow pump will suck the pan dry faster. My opinion is, a lower volume pump is a partial fix, but the real fix is a better oil pan/containment system.

Oil also acts as a coolant in your engine, arguably more effectively than the cooling system. Just like coolant, the more you can cycle it through the hot zones, the longer the fluid will last and the more heat it will remove. The longer the oil stays in the hot zones, the faster it will heat soak and break down. Increasing capacity will help with this also.
 
My first engine rebuild when I was 17, (40 years ago) was a Chevy 396. I put a high volume / high pressure pump in it and it would drain the stock pan. I have installed stock oil pumps in my engines since then.
 

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