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oil system accumulator

jdsharp81

jdsharp81

Well-Known Member
Joined
Jan 19, 2014
Messages
125
Location
northport, al
Do most of you guys run an accumulator for the engine oil? almost done with this buggy and i need to order remote filter adaptor and i was wondering if i needed to install one or not, if so i will order at same time.
 
I just put one on my new build. It's my first experience with them, but everybody I talked to seemed to think they were pretty necessecary on an LS motor. I'm plumbing mine directly into the oil galley port on the front drivers side of the block.
 
I know the majority use them when they swap to a F body or aftermarket welded pan but what if you're still using a truck pan?
 
hokie_yj said:
I just put one on my new build. It's my first experience with them, but everybody I talked to seemed to think they were pretty necessecary on an LS motor. I'm plumbing mine directly into the oil galley port on the front drivers side of the block.
Click to expand...

can you post a pic of where you are talking about? ive got an ls and put a moroso pan on it that requires a remote filter, so i guess i will go ahead a get accumulator too when i order it.
 
It's a crappy pic, but it's the Allen head plug. It's on the drivers side at the very front of the block. I believe it's an M18 thread. I have the fitting here to adapt to -8 hose, I just haven't installed it yet because I'm still mocking up. I got the accumulator and the fitting from Will Carter at RightSide Performance.

e5ujevyt.jpg
 
I run one on a big block.
It helps on several things
1. More oil capacity
2. Oil keeps cooler now because you have more
3. You will, if setup proper, always have oil pressure
4. Never a dry motor start.
 
Re:

I run a canton 3qt.

Ill run it on the new race but in conjunction with an oil cooler. Found a remote thermostat that bypasses the oil cooler until the oil warms up.
 
would i need a check if i run a single line from accumulator to that plug in the front and i will have a remote filter housing with two lines , one supply and one return? id have two seperate systems so i dont see the need... am i thinking right?
 
I don't see a need for a check valve. Actually I don't guess it would even work. The oil could only flow into or out of the accumulator, not both.
 
reason i asked was because it came up on suggested parts when i was looking at them on summit. im guessing if you had it ran in line with remote filter then maybe you would need one to make sure it would go to the motor and not to the filter in the even of oil loss...

plumbing like im thinking i shouldnt have a problem...

I cant tell on web, but hows the construction of it? i mean do you have to give it an air charge because it has a bladder in it?? that is how our hydraulic accumulators are here.... nitrogen filled bladders that keep pressure on fluid untill system pressure drops below charge pressure. pressure drops, bladder forces fluid out untill that pressure builds back up and overcomes bladder charge and then fluid enters back into accumulator untill the next time.
 
Yeah, it's just a cylinder with a piston in it. One end is charged with either nitrogen or air. Whenever you start the motor oil pressure overcomes the pressure behind the piston and fills the accumulator, then when oil pressure drops the piston pushes oil back into the system giving you a little time before things get bad.

I'm actually putting a normally closed solenoid valve on mine that will be hot when the ignition is on. That way when you shut the ignition off the valve closes and holds oil in the accumulator. Then when you turn it on the valve opens and the accumulator pushes oil into the motor for pre-start lube.
 
hokie_yj said:
I'm actually putting a normally closed solenoid valve on mine that will be hot when the ignition is on. That way when you shut the ignition off the valve closes and holds oil in the accumulator. Then when you turn it on the valve opens and the accumulator pushes oil into the motor for pre-start lube.
Click to expand...

That's what I did, too.
 
What about a failure on the "normally closed solenoid" would you be running no psi, possibly causing damage if you dont notice it soon enough. Or is it a fail open deal?

Or fuse it along with the ignition to shut down the motor if there was a power loss
 
That's a good thought, honestly didn't think about that. If it's normally closed it's gonna fail closed as well. I guess I'll just have to make sure to try to remember to keep an eye on the gauge.
 
whiskeymakin said:
What about a failure on the "normally closed solenoid" would you be running no psi, possibly causing damage if you dont notice it soon enough. Or is it a fail open deal?

Or fuse it along with the ignition to shut down the motor if there was a power loss
Click to expand...

This is true. But without the valve when you turn your engine off your oil pressure drops and the accumulator dumps its load into the pan. Then when you start back up the engine runs at low psi until it fills the accumulator again. I installed my valve after running my rig for a while without it specifically because I was uncomfortable watching how long it took to get up to pressure on my gauge. The solenoid also gives me a warm cozy feeling when I turn the ignition on and see my gauge jump a little before the engine is even turning. This is also a sign that the valve is working.
 

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