Overheating fixed

cadpwrdyj · Jul 2, 2008

After months of working on the cooling system with no luck, I finally made some progress and now on the right track. The problem was not with the cooling system, but with the timing in my TBI chip. I broke down and bought all the stuff to program my own TBI chips and after much trial and error learning about what is what in the chips, I drove it yesteray for about 30 mins on the interstate, back roads etc and barely got to 195. This has been the worst experience I have ever had with a Jeep...so if anyone ever needs a chip tweaked, I have a cable to log data, software to make adjustments and I know how to modify the ecm's to take a rewritable chip that is easy to adjust in about 10 mins time....I am no expert at this, but small tweaks should not be a problem. Now all I have to do is put the whole front end back together with bolts instead of zip ties and get some brackets welded on to my new aluminum double pass radiator and she will finally be ready for a woods trip.....

InDaShop · Jul 2, 2008

That is excellent news, and you've got an in demand skill and knowledge now. Boo YAAA!!!!

P · Jul 2, 2008

Awesome man, that thing is getting super close now dood... I cant wait to see it. So is it going to be a torque monster or what... give us some driving impression !!!

( Hmmm wanna tweak my TBI... laughing1 )

cadpwrdyj · Jul 2, 2008

It is definitely a torque monster...I used to drive diesels in a previous life and it reminds me alot like driving them in the lower gears....top end is another story...Its running lean and I keep bumping up the fuel in the upper rpms, but still its running out up there so I am not sure how she will react there yet til I get it right, might have to get bigger injectors to solve the problem. It's got some serious low end, now my only concern is can I create wheel spin when I need it...Again its a trial and error process, I take my laptop everytime I drive it so I can see what its doing and make adjustments. I used to have a jeep with a TPI 327 and it would absolutely fly and would break the tires loose when you didn't want it to, now this one is like driving a choo choo train, all grunt. P if ya need some tweeking in your chip, the best thing for us to do is hook my laptop up and go do some riding, then we can tell if you are running rich or lean in any areas, and we can bump up your timing/fuel in a couple of areas to smooth it out. You running a knock sensor?? If you are, that is a good tuning sensor to have, I don't have one, because I always heard you didn't need it, but it actually helps you tune timing alot easier. Btw, I owe big props to the folks over at the binderbulletin.org they have really helped me through this, and could have never done it without their help.

P · Jul 2, 2008

Did Mechano from PBB / KC Missouri throw input into your research ?? Just wondering he is someone Bones and I know from former life in Kansas. Bones used to have a man crush on him actually...

Sorry off topic, anyway.. Yes I am running a knock sensor, The engine has been really cranky since putting it in the buggy and only thing changed is the ignition box (summit brand ) and headers. It was always uber reliable and smooth in the Turd. I suppose fuel delivery could be an issue as well, I have a "unknown" pump and I think it struggles to push fuel "uphill" on steep stuff.

Im knit pickin it to death obviously too... laughing1

Regardless, glad to see you making good headway on your rig man !! I really wanna check your engine swap out and stuff. I dig the out of the box type stuff !

cadpwrdyj · Jul 2, 2008

Thanks hopefully in a couple of weeks I can get it back together right and finish the paint on the front end (looks like ass now, had a few tantrums). Don't think anyone named Mechano tossed in any advice but if he does, I will tell him Bones is missing him. Sounds like before the spark box you were running right at "stoich" (good Air/Fuel Ratio AFR) and the new box might be making you run lean, which will feel like you are running outta gas. The knock sensor can tell you that in a pinch as well as monitoring your AFR. There are 3 methods to try depending on what RPM range it happens in. Bump fuel up, timing down, or combination of the two. I try it all ways and you should be able to feel a difference in driving it and know which one feels better to ya. That is where I am right now, takes me less than 10 mins to make the changes and no tools for the heep, and I go try another option til it feels right.

I definitely wanna hit the trails with you guys, I might be slow at first, gotta let my balls drop again, the only mountains I have been exploring lately have been the ole lady's....

P · Jul 2, 2008

laughing1 Sounds good to me !

blacksheep10 · Jul 3, 2008

SWEET. how much was the setup? you are a little far from me, so I might have to buy one of my own. that's badass. :woody:

74_Chevota · Jul 4, 2008

I have been having all kinds of issues with my TBI and overheating. I have a huge radiator, 2 fans (1 being a taurus) and cant seem to get the joker to cool right even with the stock chip. I need details because this gives me a little hope! It will sit and idle cool all day long but will not stay cool running up hills or around town in high range. Mine is a simple TBI setup from howel on a chevy 350.

cadpwrdyj · Jul 5, 2008

The whole setup wasn't that bad...I bought an ALDL cable to log data to my laptop (around $60) then a moates burn1 programmer (around $85) then a bunch of chips off ebay that are 28 pin rewritable with the Burn1. The TBI ECM's are 24 pin, so you have to do a lil soldering to the 28 pin chips for it to work, or you can send yours off to moates to have a new socket put in your existing ECM. I didn't choose that because I wanted to be able to just grap one from the junkyard should I need it. Thats why I modified the chip instead of the ECM.
74_Chevota, I had the same problem, tried water pumps, 3-4 different fans, new double pass aluminum radiator, all without success. I bought all the stuff, started playing around with the timing in the chip, and finally found what my motor wanted. Now it runs about 195-200 even driving 70 down the interstate. Before, I would over heat driving 40 before I even got to the interstate, and when I say over heat, i would shut it down at 240 and before the hoses exploded. I started adjusting the middle range of the timing tables, adding fuel here, and taking out some timing there until it had good power and didn't run hot in those areas. Hope that helps a lil bit.

74_Chevota · Jul 5, 2008

That is EXACTLY the issue i am having. I am not exactly savy with wiring or computers so I wonder what my best option is around here. Could you not find a shop in your area that could burn custom chips or just wanted the opportunity to do it yourself? You are in alabama correct? Maybe I should head that way to do some wheeling and you could help me out laughing1 . I am VERY frusterated at this point.

cadpwrdyj · Jul 5, 2008

Nope couldn't find anyone local that would believe me when I told them I thought it was the timing. Kept getting, change fan, change radiator, change this, the chip would not be causing your troubles...so I finally just broke down and did it myself. One suggestion is if you are running a stock 350 chip, then make sure you are setting your timing correctly. First make sure the timing mark is correct and by using the old finger in the spark plug hole trick to make sure you are on the compression stroke, then turn the crank til the piston is at the top using a screwdriver to use as a gauge. I think you should be able to get away with 8btdc to start after its at normal temp. If it still over heats when driving advance just a bit more, but pay close attention to pinging because you will grenade a piston if you aren't careful. If the temp starts to get better then you need different timing for your motor. By no means leave it this way, this would just be a test to see if it gets better.