Painless Dual Battery Kit trouble

[2slow4you]

Just finished up my dual battery kit on my 4runner but I'm having some trouble. Here's the problem... mode 3 on the switch is not working.

Place the mode control switch in mode two (2), this is the middle switch position. The
red and green indicators should not light; indicating the system is off.
2. Turn the key to the accessory position first then the run and start positions. Note: The
indicator should remain off in all key positions.
3. Move the mode control switch to the position with the green light illuminated. This is the
mode one (1) position. In this position the indicator should be green with the key in the run
and start position and off with key off or in the accessory position.
4. Place the system in mode three (3), this is the switch position opposite mode one (1). In this
mode the indicator should shine RED always, regardless of the key position.
NOTE: Anytime the indicator is shining RED or GREEN the control wire connection on the
isolator solenoid should have power. Inversely it should not have power when the
mode indicator is off.


Can anyone think of what I might of missed if mode 1 and 2 work but not 3?

I can here the solenoid click when going from 2 to mode 1, but nothing when going from 2-3.

 

[ChopTop84]

My guess is one of two things.

1. there is something wrong with the switch
2. you've got a wire hooked up wrong somewhere.

That painless kit is really not much more than a radio shack multi switch, and a starter solenoid.

The solenoid should have 4 lugs on it. 2 for the battery cables, a ground, and a trigger. The trigger comes from the switch.

The switch is just a 3 position (center off) switch. (mode 2 being off, no power to the solenoid trigger wire).

Mode 1 power into the switch comes from a key hot in run and start wire and mode 3 power needs to come from an ALWAYS HOT connection, such as direct to battery.

My money is on your ALWAYS HOT wire is not always hot.

 

[ChopTop84]

by the way, is there a reason your isolating the battery? Just as a backup battery or something? Typically, the only times I install isolators is on camper, boats, and RVs that want a house bank, and a separate engine battery, but everything charged when the engine is running.

On rigs running heavy demand electrical, I gang the batteries together. 12's in parallel, or 6's in series if I want some real deep reserve power. Gonna want an ALT that can charge them back up fast tho.

 

[2slow4you]

Chop thank you very much for the reply, I spent some time with the guys at painless and narrowed it down to a switch.

To answer your question the idea is to have a back up battery for startup if need be from the draw of my amp/winch. I would have just gone parallel like you recommended if it weren't for the deal I got on this kit.

Once again thank you.

Now I just have to get another switch from painless.

 

[ChopTop84]

To answer your question the idea is to have a back up battery for startup if need be from the draw of my amp/winch. I would have just gone parallel like you recommended if it weren't for the deal I got on this kit.

Allow me to make an argument against the painless kit as it comes shipped then for backup purposes.

The way I've always done backup batteries is to isolate them from the vehicle, but still charge them. If its a true backup that never gets used, then it only needs about 2 amps to maintain charge, with say a 30 amp (or more) re-charge ability should you actually pull a load from it.

The painless system as I understand it, is only a semi-backup system.

In position 1, the two batteries are linked as long as the key is on. (key on parallel)
In position 2, the two batteries are separated.
In position 3, the two batteries are linked regardless of key position. (True parallel, as if the painless kit didnt exist)

The second battery will ONLY CHARGE if the switch is in position 1 or 3. However, if your demand on the alt/main battery is so high you worry about draining your main battery, you will also be draining your backup. You may as well just parallel them and dump the dual kit.

So, in order to prevent accidental drawdown of your second battery, you always leave it in position 2 until you really need the second battery. BUT, you'll never maintain the charge on the 2nd battery because its not connected to the charging system via position 1 or 3.

For a truly independent backup, you can still use the painless kit just for the automated convenience of the switch to connect the batteries, but I would always leave it in position 2, and then put some form of RV battery isolator with charge ability so that your 2nd battery is always fresh.

Another thing to keep in mind. When you parallel batteries (especially long term), you really want a matched pair. Same brand, same style, same capacity, and its even preferred they be matched production dates. An older, or mismatched battery will continuously draw down the newer or larger capacity battery unless separated while the engine is off. (aka position 1 of the painless kit).

Just some things to think about.