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Question for those with CTM/Yukon joints

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Waffle

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Sep 6, 2016
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I'm a longtime RCV user but I'm thinking about joints for my next axle build and it has me thinking...... How often do y'all actually grease your joints. I keep seeing things like "grease every 10hrs of use" yet I can't ever recall seeing anyone grease anything in the morning at camp. Seems like a real pita schedule to follow. Is greasing them everyday really necessary?
 
I have heard that they need to be greased on a regular basis. That being said the set that I have on my rig have been used and abused and put away wet with only periodic greasing. I do live in florida and only get to wheel 4 to 6 times a year.
 
I grease mine every time it leaves the shop, had trouble with them galling and spinning the caps on the first set I had.
 
Damn I ran mine a year and never greased em, my buddy said every ride so I now grease em a lot more. Hopefully I didn't damage em, I noticed one cap spit grease out around the edges when I greased it, probably odda tear it apart
 
Just put a new set of CTM's in the Dutchman inners….
Gonna grease before each ride, old set had tons play in them…. No clue when/if they ever got greased.

Figured for money, cheap maintenance.
 
I'm still doing my homework on 300m u-joints. It appears CTM "might" be more forgiving with the grease maintenance schedule since they run bronze bushings vs a Yukon or Branik that is just steel on steel. IDK just an assumption. Greasing them before each weekend trip would be nbd, but doing this each morning at camp is definitely something I'd pay extra to avoid.

The only u-joint I really like tbh is the Ouverson rockwell Violator with a single zerk.
 
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If you want CTM I would order them soon. When i put my axles in i ordered them and waited 3 months. Then cancelled and got Braniks in 3 days.
 
Careful about over greasing them, they like to push the caps out.
Make sure to tack them.

One pump per cap before every trip should be more than enough.
 
Waffle said:
Nothing is set in stone at this point, but to my knowledge going all 40 spline with RCV means big bells.
Click to expand...
I think they make a small bell 40sp.
Kinda pointless if you ask me but that still may be a possibility.
 
Pretty sure that 40spl small bell RCV is still 35 at the bell.

I spoke with Spidertrax today for a bit. The Spidertrax 1550 joint that Loren Healy has been testing also has a 1480 version in the works. But both have been shelved recently due to serious labor and materials shortages, but they said it's possible an early 2022 release will happen.
The 1480 joint will match up with the existing Pro knuckles and ultimate unit bearings. This would be perfect for my needs.
The big 1550 needs a bigger knuckle not yet available and fits the big money 45 spline bearings. Out of my league.
I also asked what breaks more often based on there experience, a 300m 40 spline shaft or a 300m 1480 joint. He said the joint.
29571316_1529759013760427_517251889762587413_n.jpg
 
I like Ouversons because of one grease fitting. Depends on what you are building. If you run a passenger drop Dana 80 front.it's possible to use factory length rockwell inner shafts and the big 32 spline outers from ouverson at a decent price and all will be on the shelf.
 
collinmaune said:
I like Ouversons because of one grease fitting. Depends on what you are building. If you run a passenger drop Dana 80 front.it's possible to use factory length rockwell inner shafts and the big 32 spline outers from ouverson at a decent price and all will be on the shelf.
Click to expand...
I'm building a pass drop Prorock 80 to match the one out back. Thanks for that info cause I never knew factory length rock shafts were a possibility. I'll definitely look into this some more.

I'm still piecing together a plan of various outer types with pricing and pro's/cons of each one. I know 40 spline with 300m 1480 was beef back in the day, but my goal is to knock back suds while I watch everyone else fix their sh#t, so I'm just going to scratch 1480 off the list completely. I can still keep rollin on with my kingpin 60 so I'm going to take my time on this one.

The chunk is a Prorock 80 and it'll be spooled or ARB 40 spline with 4" × 3/8 tube. For knuckles I'm looking at S&S fab 1550, Reid super KP, Crane magnum.
 
Waffle said:
I'm building a pass drop Prorock 80 to match the one out back. Thanks for that info cause I never knew factory length rock shafts were a possibility. I'll definitely look into this some more.

I'm still piecing together a plan of various outer types with pricing and pro's/cons of each one. I know 40 spline with 300m 1480 was beef back in the day, but my goal is to knock back suds while I watch everyone else fix their sh#t, so I'm just going to scratch 1480 off the list completely. I can still keep rollin on with my kingpin 60 so I'm going to take my time on this one.

The chunk is a Prorock 80 and it'll be spooled or ARB 40 spline with 4" × 3/8 tube. For knuckles I'm looking at S&S fab 1550, Reid super KP, Crane magnum.
Click to expand...
If I did it over again.... I am gathering the parts for another build. Run drop out axles with 3.812 case a 45 spline 2" major diameter spool. Reid racing super kingpin knuckles and C's.
 
extremetownie said:
I am running the S&S fab knuckles and i am very happy with them.
Click to expand...
Got any good pics to share? Interested in seeing various ideas on high steer since these don't come with any.
Also interesting in your opinion of the pin/bolt/joint that secures the knuckle to the C. Having lived with kingpins all my life I'm unfamiliar with setups like your S&S knuckles.
 

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