Here are some design points to shoot for:
As close to zero pinion angle change as possible.
If you have some pinion angle change, ideally have the pinion rotate up slightly at full droop, but this means longer uppers than lowers wen viewed from the side horizontally.
You want at minimum, 40 degrees of total triangulation when viewed from the top. Add the upper and lower triangulation amounts, when triangulated in opposing directions.
If you can't get 40 degrees, plan for a panhard (track) bar to locate the axle laterally.
Get as much triangulation as possible when comparing the uppers and lower links, when viewed from the side.
This means uppers as high as possible on the axle, and lowers as low as practical.
Generally separation at axle should be a minimum of 25% of tire diameter. Separation at the frame around 50-75% of the axle separation.
You want antisquat between 50-90%. Typically make frame side uppers adjustable with points at 60,70, and 80%. Start at 70% and see what you think.
Too little and you will lifting the front too much under throttle, and not forcing axle into ground.
Too much and you are wasting HP on extending the suspension as weight transfers rearward.
Too much will also cause wheel hop as the suspension loads the tires looking for traction, and then extend the suspension, removing weight on rear tires and then the tire spins. As soon as it spins slightly, the suspension will return to ride height, and process starts over. Wheel hop.
You want roll axis angle as close to zero as possible.
Generally uppers as high, flat, and parallel to the ground at ride height as possible.
Lowers as low as possible without being anchors.
Typical link lengths similar to tire size , and/or driveshaft length.
With all that said, if you can make all those things happen, and all that fit the chassis side mounts, no matter if it's single or double triangulated, straight uppers, or lowers,
You will be happy with the setup.
