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rear mounted radiator Qs

dove'd85

dove'd85

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i am moving my toy radiator to the rear, i have just a few questions.

will the stock water pump be able to pump the coolant efficently enough to keep it cool and not ruin the pump?

also i was thinking about using 1.5 exhaust tubing to get the coolant there and back...

i want some opionins from those who have done this already, i plan on running a taurus fan:beer:
 
Yes to all above.

never had experience wth the toy pump but try it....if it lacks ability to move volume it will be at idle, then you could add an in-line electric pump for crawlin.I think you'll be fine with the stock TOy pump though.

Thats what I'm gonna do with my 5.0...add an in-line electric for slow speed stuff
 
Yes and yes

Mines a ford 2.3, but the pump keeps up just fine. And 1.5 exhaust pipe is what I used on mine.
 
Pump will be fine james.

And if you want something that works like crazy--look at jeepless's build :awesomework:
 
We have covered this a few times, search is your frie... :cheer:
Yes a stock pump will work great, you will have to put in a way to bleed the system at the high point front and rear, exhaust tube will work great, use muffler clamps to hold it in place as that allows it to flex some, place radiator hose to bridge splices.
 
i am running mine in the back with toy motor, i used 1 1/4 conduit, and run a acura fan that i can reverse for heat into the cab.
 
One thing I should add, if you don't have a way to roll a bead on each end of the pipe, swab a little rvt on the pipe before you slide the hose on, it'll save you headaches trying to get the hoses sealed. :awesomework:
 
Only thing i havnt read is, Make sure the rad inlet is higher than the outlet on the motor. A air bleed at the outlet by the t-stat is pretty much mandatory.
 
thanks for all the replies guys i have just a couple more Q's

i no some of the older toy motors had a bleeder right on the T stat housing so i wonder if i can just tap a hole in the center of the top of my T stat housing?

and the rad cab seams to me like it is all i need to bleed the rear?

now for the dumb one which side of the water pump is the inlet? i think it is on the drivers side of the engine?

also should i use the top out/inlet on the rad for the inlet from the pump and the lower inlet/outlet for the outlet to the pump?
 
crash said:
Pump will be fine james.

And if you want something that works like crazy--look at jeepless's build :awesomework:
Click to expand...

damn i forgot about that build for a minute...:cool: you do some awesome work bro:awesomework:

so if i wanted to use my coolant lines as a sort of heating element, would the copper give off more heat then say exhaust tubing?:beer:
 
dove'd85 said:
thanks for all the replies guys i have just a couple more Q's

i no some of the older toy motors had a bleeder right on the T stat housing so i wonder if i can just tap a hole in the center of the top of my T stat housing? That should work.

and the rad cab seams to me like it is all i need to bleed the rear?nope

now for the dumb one which side of the water pump is the inlet? i think it is on the drivers side of the engine?yep

also should i use the top out/inlet on the rad for the inlet from the pump and the lower inlet/outlet for the outlet to the pump?top of engine to top of rad
Click to expand...

Dedenbear sells a nice elec water pump, I put one on my rig but only use it to get rid of air pockets. You will get air pockets so do what you can to eliminate them.
 
I drilled an 1/8" hole in my thermastat to bypass and drilled and tapped for a plug on my housing.
 
03 CON said:
I drilled an 1/8" hole in my thermastat to bypass and drilled and tapped for a plug on my housing.
Click to expand...


what was the point of drilling an 1/8" hole in your T-stat? was it to increase the flow of the cooling system when the Tstat is shut?

i just found a Tstat housing i had off of my 85 and it happends to have a temp sensor mounted right on top of the stat housing so no need to drill and tap my other one:D
 
Dusten said:
http://www.nwuonline.com/Forum/viewtopic.php?f=19&t=2681
Click to expand...
thanks for the link:cool:

Bunk said:
Dedenbear sells a nice elec water pump, I put one on my rig but only use it to get rid of air pockets. You will get air pockets so do what you can to eliminate them.
Click to expand...

why will i get air pockets? and what should i do to properly and efficently be able to bleed the back half of the cooling system? i am going to try and make my hardlines out of some 1 1/5 copper pipe, i read on that link that there are a couple different grades of copper pipe? i have never used copper pipe so i am unsure of what will work for my app?


Fordzuki said:
The best way to fill a system like this is with a air evac like this.

http://www.sjdiscounttools.com/mitmv4535.html

If you need to borrow one, I have one here in puyallup.
Click to expand...

thanks i may just take you up on that offer:awesomework:
 
dove'd85 said:
why will i get air pockets? and what should i do to properly and efficently be able to bleed the back half of the cooling system? i am going to try and make my hardlines out of some 1 1/5 copper pipe, i read on that link that there are a couple different grades of copper pipe? i have never used copper pipe so i am unsure of what will work for my app?
Click to expand...
There are 4 grades of copper pipe,each one is thicker wall. DWV,Type M,Type L,with Type K being the thickest. I would suggest type L,but M would prolly work fine also
 

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