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Replacing D44 hubs to widen alxe?

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Wildman1

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Okay I know I can't seem to drop this whole thing. And I won't until I get my Jeep fixed and it stops breaking axle parts that are not suppose to break.

So here are my latest thoughts.
I am looking at a D70 axle that already has 5.13 gears and a locker. The catch is this- it is 74" WMS to WMS. So I can help fix that by running stock Hummer rims to bring the width in some.

But my next question is this, I have my narrowed HP44 in front right now. It is about a 62" WMS to WMS. Are there new hubs I could put on to widen the track of the front and also change it to a 8 lug pattern?

Thanks.
 
Your pivot on the steering is too far inboard to be of any use if you widen the axle / or move the wheel center outboard. It just won't turn right. You're not pivoting the tire/wheel under the axle (ball joint centerline) anymore.

Either narrow the D70 or get a full width D44 and just run that. For what it's worth, I don't feel full width works that well around here. But that just my opinion.
 
Isn't a Dana 70 pumpkin actually larger than 35" diamater?

We need to start the "Help Wildman find his way back to reality" foundation.

Seriously.
 
I'm a tad lost here... But are you talking about equalizing the widths by running different rims front vs rear?

And if you use some sort of hub or spacer or what have you to widen the front axle, you'll just be increasing the load on the ball joints. Not a good idea on the already not-so-bullet-proof Dana 44 front axle, considering you seem to have a knack for breaking things...
 
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If you are interested I have a buddy that has a 8 lug dana 60(LP), with 5:13s, spooled, disc brakes, 30 spline that is rebuilt and ready to go for 5-600 cash. Take it to Doug Dye and have it bored for 35 spline, order an ARB,35 spline axles, and have it narrowed and you will still be under 2 grand. If interested PM me for a number.
 
CrustyJeep said:
Isn't a Dana 70 pumpkin actually larger than 35" diamater?

We need to start the "Help Wildman find his way back to reality" foundation.

Seriously.
Click to expand...

My hollyness yes maybe I do need to be led back to the light.

I do need to figure out a way to make my Jeep work and a axle that will work with it. When I bought that CRD60 I thought it was it. Yes I know I can just get a LP D60 and be done with it. The reason I am alsing these questions is because I found this D70. From looking at it and reading on Pirate I can shave it to match a D60 as far as clearance. So I see nothing wrong with that.

So running different hubs isn't a good idea and yes I understand the way.
So then the next avenue is a D60 front. And then still run sometype of back spaced rims.

I have been told for sooooooooooooooooooooooooooo long that my D60 should not break on 35" tires. Well I am breaking them, either because I have a POS axle of because I can't drive and am just breaking ****.

So if I am going to replace axles I want them to be something that CAN"T BREAK with 37" tires on them. And I don't care if I loose a little ground clearance to do so. So Duce axles work for me, so do a D70 rear & D60 front.

I and just FUC&in sick & tired of having my Jeep sitting in my garage on jack stands.
 
PORTER said:
If you are interested I have a buddy that has a 8 lug dana 60(LP), with 5:13s, spooled, disc brakes, 30 spline that is rebuilt and ready to go for 5-600 cash. Take it to Doug Dye and have it bored for 35 spline, order an ARB,35 spline axles, and have it narrowed and you will still be under 2 grand. If interested PM me for a number.
Click to expand...

Is there a reason I can't run the spool if this is a off-road rig? And what it the strength diff between a 30 spline & 35 spline shaft?

I'm broke right now Porter but when I get the funds I'll shoot you a PM and if the axle is still available we'll go from there.
 
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Wildman said:
Is there a reason I can't run the spool if this is a off-road rig? And what it the strength diff between a 30 spline & 35 spline shaft?
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You can run the spool no prob, I thought your rig was a DD, thats why I thought you run an ARB(I have only used spools in my rigs). And yes 35 spline shafts are going to be stronger. Bigger is always better. Better hurry dude, as I am thinking about picking up for myself as a spare axle.
 
TreeClimber said:
Your pivot on the steering is too far inboard to be of any use if you widen the axle / or move the wheel center outboard. It just won't turn right. You're not pivoting the tire/wheel under the axle (ball joint centerline) anymore.

Either narrow the D70 or get a full width D44 and just run that. For what it's worth, I don't feel full width works that well around here. But that just my opinion.
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I agree 100% on full width axles. But if your running Hummer rims that brings you back in my 14" so that 74" axle is now 60" right? or is my math all F'ed up?

Ask Karl & Mark about my gears. They were at my place after the event this weekend and had a chance to see first hand the distructive power of Wildman and his 35" tires!!! :haha: :haha: :looser: :looser:
 
It doesn't bring you in 14". Typical wheels have 4" of BS, so hummer wheels will make you about 6" narrower than typical. Which makes your 74" wide axle with hummer rims equivalent to a 68" wide axle with typical rims. 74" is a rediculously wide axle, typical "full width" rear axles are around 67" wide.

A 74" axle, with stock hummer rims and 12.5" tires will result in about 80.75" width outside the tires. Too wide.

If you want a burly, "off the shelf" rear axle, find a 14-bolt out of a Cab & Chassis Chevy dually pickup. 63" wide. Putting 8-lug hubs on your 44 front will add about 1", so it will put you right at 63" in the front also.

I run 63" wide Dana 60's front and rear in my YJ, with 37" krawlers on 4.5" BS wheels I am about 75" wide. 6" TJ flares almost fully cover my tires, and I think the width is just right.
 
benw said:
It doesn't bring you in 14". Typical wheels have 4" of BS, so hummer wheels will make you about 6" narrower than typical. Which makes your 74" wide axle with hummer rims equivalent to a 68" wide axle with typical rims. 74" is a rediculously wide axle, typical "full width" rear axles are around 67" wide.

A 74" axle, with stock hummer rims and 12.5" tires will result in about 80.75" width outside the tires. Too wide.

If you want a burly, "off the shelf" rear axle, find a 14-bolt out of a Cab & Chassis Chevy dually pickup. 63" wide. Putting 8-lug hubs on your 44 front will add about 1", so it will put you right at 63" in the front also.

I run 63" wide Dana 60's front and rear in my YJ, with 37" krawlers on 4.5" BS wheels I am about 75" wide. 6" TJ flares almost fully cover my tires, and I think the width is just right.
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Ben,
I thought Hummer rims were 7" back spacing? At least that is what I remember from my Army days. Maybe I am just getting old.:looser:
 
Wildman said:
Ben,
I thought Hummer rims were 7" back spacing? At least that is what I remember from my Army days. Maybe I am just getting old.:looser:
Click to expand...

You are correct, what I was trying to do was compare hummer rims to "normal" rims. A hummer rim is 7" back spacing, a "normal" rim is 4" of back spacing, so that means a hummer rim will make you 3" narrower per side than "normal" rims. That's where I got the 6" narrower overall with hummers.
 
benw said:
You are correct, what I was trying to do was compare hummer rims to "normal" rims. A hummer rim is 7" back spacing, a "normal" rim is 4" of back spacing, so that means a hummer rim will make you 3" narrower per side than "normal" rims. That's where I got the 6" narrower overall with hummers.
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Yep, not that Ben needed me confirming his info :D

IIRC however, 8-lug (i.e. Chevy outers) on a D44 that currently had Ford (5 on 5.5) or Chevy (6 on 5.5) 1/2T outer will add 2" over width. The difference between 67" and 69" for Chevy 1/2T and 3/4T axles respectivly.

So your 62" wide D44 in the front will be 64" wide, and as Ben mentioned, a C&C 14-bolt, while being a heavy/big pig will be quick, best bang-for-your-buck instant solution. You can then build something lighter and more attune to what you want in the mean time, but the 14-bolt and some welding wire will get you back on the trails with bomb proof results.

However that D60 that Porter mentioned sounds like a good deal, especially if its already bored. Run it till it Booms then put the 35-spline shafts in it if $$ is tight.
________
TOYS STRAPON
 
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I have a dane 60 rear already bored to fit the 35 spline shaft, It spun the tube in the housing, if you blow out the plug weld and reweld to fix you can have it.
67wms

:cool:
 
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