Skid plate mounting

nhl_bullitt · Dec 28, 2015

Simple concept, but I have concerns.

I'm surprised how often I see a basic bolt holding the skid plate on. Must mean I should not worry about it that bad??? I have removed a skid plate before where it had tapered bolt heads (countersunk) that sat flush with the bottom of the skid. Problem was rocks had gouged the metal of the skid and into the bolt head as well on a couple of the bolts. It ended up having to be drilled out.

I saw someone on here actually used hose clamps. It is not exactly stylish, but you are left with a smooth surface, easy removal, and extremely cheap and easy to replace as well.

Jduck · Dec 28, 2015

If a bolt head keeps you from getting over something it's time to make other upgrades. A beat up bolt is much easier to remove than the countersunk fasteners.

wont work · Dec 28, 2015

How about welding tabs to top and bolting on that way. May would have to go bigger bolts since it would be trying to shear it off but would be a smooth belly

dynajeep · Dec 28, 2015

I liked my countersunk fasteners, yeah they get beat up and can't get them out with the Allen wrenches, just grind a slot in it and get it out with a flat head screw driver. Replace it with a new one when reinstalled.

nhl_bullitt · Dec 28, 2015

Jduck said:
If a bolt head keeps you from getting over something it's time to make other upgrades. A beat up bolt is much easier to remove than the countersunk fasteners.

Haha, not worried about the bolt keeping me hung up on something. I'm just curious how often the heads get so beat up, that it is a huge pain in the ass every time the skid needs removed (which really is not that often considering all my crap has to come out from the top anyway). Bolts are cheap, I'll just keep an eye on them and replace them as necessary. Guess I'll just go with the ol grade 8 hex bolt. 8)

pholmann · Dec 28, 2015

Why not use a carriage head bolt?

RustyC · Dec 28, 2015

I welded a nut to each of the chassis tabs that hold on my bottom skid. Then the bolts go in from the bottom, through the skid and thread into the tab. I don't remove the skid often but during each clean up I loosen the bolts up and allow the skid to drop 1/2" or so. That lets all the mud and debris wash out of the chassis. Like stated bolts are not too costly plus a file or grinder cleans them up fine.

RustyC · Dec 28, 2015

pholmann said:
Why not use a carriage head bolt?

That was my original plan but one of the nuts was right under the battery and would have been very hard to access.

Beerj · Dec 28, 2015

pholmann said:
Why not use a carriage head bolt?

Cause then he'd need to drill a square hole :flipoff1:

I think the best idea I heard of was from 5bros_fab. He suggested welding a ~3/8 piece of thick wall tubing around the bolt. Run the bead kinda wide to make a ramp. Of course, that would probably only work well with a steel belly.

tommy450r · Dec 28, 2015

I've always had good luck with the grade8 hex head bolts on all my junk.

al1tonyota · Dec 28, 2015

Slap you a sheet of uhmwvbuxirj under there where the bolts are drill a hole big enough for an impact socket drill and tap your skid plate for smaller screws to hold the uhmv on with counter sunk screws run your standard grade 8 hex bolt to hold the skid on! :drinkers:

hope that makes sence? :drinkers:

pholmann · Dec 28, 2015

Beerj said:
Cause then he'd need to drill a square hole

I think the best idea I heard of was from 5bros_fab. He suggested welding a ~3/8 piece of thick wall tubing around the bolt. Run the bead kinda wide to make a ramp. Of course, that would probably only work well with a steel belly.

Y'all don't have square drill bits up there in Canada where u live eh? :flipoff1:

Beerj · Dec 28, 2015

Oh we do, but they're like €50 each

I really like Adams idea.

Mr. leafspring · Dec 28, 2015

I SECOND TOMMY 450r :dblthumb:

DUNCAN74 · Dec 29, 2015

I use 3/8 tapered head counter sunk in a piece of 3/8 alum. Have not had an issue yet.

stano · Dec 29, 2015

I drilled a 3/4" hole in my skid plate, then I welded a 2"x2" piece of 3/16" with a 1/2" hole on the back side. My skid plate was 3/8" plate, so the bolt head was recessed and the bolt never got touched, once ina while id have to dig out some bark. maybe these pics will help.

30th6 · Dec 29, 2015

Re:

I use a grade 8 bolt and never had any problems

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xjkrawler · Dec 29, 2015

run grade 8 bolts here.

I wonder if you can find a cone/countersunk washer that you can run a hex bolt in. Basically the washer keeps the rock from chewing the head of the bolt up.

pholmann · Dec 29, 2015

Don't they sell bolt head protectors that are used for weld on bead locks?

crawlin85cj · Dec 29, 2015

I use 3/8 bolts. When they get too chewed up for a socket I use vice grips and replace.

2012 Jim's Garage YJ
2013 Wide Open Design WFO
Next one is in the oven!