84Toyota4x4
Well-Known Member
Ok, so not too long ago, I put new 5.29s and a spool in the rear of my truck. Funny part about this whole post is the fact that I did in fact do the work, however, I cant remember jack **** about how the damn things work enough to figure out what my problem might be. Keep in mind however, this diff is making no noise at all, and otherwise seems to work fine, it just has me worried since its my first diff rebuild.
Anyway, the problem is, with no driveline attached at the rear diff, I can rotate the input flange very freely quite a ways. More-so than I think I should be able to (feels like more than just the backlash). Also, as I rotate it, it moves in and out SLIGHTLY. If you wiggle the flange around, theres also some freeplay. I dont seem to think this is right. Basically, its acting a little like a lot less severe version of the one I pulled out of there with the fried pinion bearing/crush sleeve which I could move around A LOT.
What Im thinking, is that since I used new bearings, maybe they broke in and now I have too much backlash? Or, maybe the pinion bearing wasnt seated properly when I put it together and now its seated (or fried) thus nullifying the torque I had on the pinion nut when I assembled it?
The nut is still staked in the same spot, so I dont think its moved, however I left my larger sockets at work so I dont have one to throw on there and see if I can tighten it up at all. Seeing as the nut is in the same spot, Im thinking its something else inside the diff, as its pretty much obviously not the nut backing off.
Now, I used a solid spacer when I put the diff together, so Im wondering if it is simply something "seating" inside the diff, if I can get away with just re-torqing the nut down. I dont see why not, am I thinking about this wrong? With the crush sleeve, I can see how if you torque it once, then the nut comes loose or something, you would have a hard time re-torqing it since its already crushed. But, would you still have this problem with the solid spacer?
I need to replace an axle seal on the drivers side, so Im going to pull that axle out, and I figure I might as well pull the other side out and do it too, so since theyre both coming out, Im thinking Im gonna go ahead and drop the diff to recheck it all, but I was mostly looking for some info/comments/ideas.
*big sigh*
Sorry for the long post, hope someone reads it and gives some worthwhile feedback, lol.
~T.J.
Anyway, the problem is, with no driveline attached at the rear diff, I can rotate the input flange very freely quite a ways. More-so than I think I should be able to (feels like more than just the backlash). Also, as I rotate it, it moves in and out SLIGHTLY. If you wiggle the flange around, theres also some freeplay. I dont seem to think this is right. Basically, its acting a little like a lot less severe version of the one I pulled out of there with the fried pinion bearing/crush sleeve which I could move around A LOT.
What Im thinking, is that since I used new bearings, maybe they broke in and now I have too much backlash? Or, maybe the pinion bearing wasnt seated properly when I put it together and now its seated (or fried) thus nullifying the torque I had on the pinion nut when I assembled it?
The nut is still staked in the same spot, so I dont think its moved, however I left my larger sockets at work so I dont have one to throw on there and see if I can tighten it up at all. Seeing as the nut is in the same spot, Im thinking its something else inside the diff, as its pretty much obviously not the nut backing off.
Now, I used a solid spacer when I put the diff together, so Im wondering if it is simply something "seating" inside the diff, if I can get away with just re-torqing the nut down. I dont see why not, am I thinking about this wrong? With the crush sleeve, I can see how if you torque it once, then the nut comes loose or something, you would have a hard time re-torqing it since its already crushed. But, would you still have this problem with the solid spacer?
I need to replace an axle seal on the drivers side, so Im going to pull that axle out, and I figure I might as well pull the other side out and do it too, so since theyre both coming out, Im thinking Im gonna go ahead and drop the diff to recheck it all, but I was mostly looking for some info/comments/ideas.
*big sigh*
Sorry for the long post, hope someone reads it and gives some worthwhile feedback, lol.
~T.J.
