Solid Axle Knuckle Bearing Preload Question

[84Toyota4x4]

Just had a thought while planning my next step rebuilding my front axle...

The stock steering arm is longer than the crossover steering arm thats going on, thus, the tie rod hole that you measure the preload off of, is closer to the rotational point (bearings).

So, with that in mind, the spec of 6.6 - 13.2 LBS of preload would actually be LOWER than what I actually want since there is more leverage turning the knuckle that far out, right?

Meaning, if I had say 13 LBS of preload as measured from the tie rod hole of the STOCK arm, it would read HIGHER on a crossover arm from the tie rod hole since its shorter without as much leverage to turn the knuckle. Right?

Therefor, if the stock measurement would be lower, should I be aiming for say 15 - 18 LBS of preload with a shorter arm or something? OR, does no one really care and/or take this into account?

I'm thinking I might just aim for 15 LBS and call it good since I don't know how to calculate the difference of leverage and so on, whatcha think? Opinions?

~T.J.

 

[PUO-BANNED]

You Trying to hard just tighten the bolts fag :fawkdancesmiley:

 

[crash2]

I set them up to 15" pounds of preload reguardless of what steering arms are on it...

 

[84Toyota4x4]

Thats kinda what I was thinking. Im gonna aim for that. Mainly Im just gonna see what the stock shims give me, and go from there. If theyre pretty close, Im not gonna fawk with it.

~T.J.

 

[skrause]

I set them up to 15" pounds of preload reguardless of what steering arms are on it...

A little tight is definitely better than loose, but you'll know when you got it too tight if you can't get the birfs back in. :redneck:

 

[84Toyota4x4]

I think 15 in-lbs like Crash posted is a little loose though :flipoff:

I usually aim for the higher end of ranges like that. I figure once the bearings seat and wear in or whatever, it should still be within the middle of the range and in theroy, last longer IMO.

~T.J.