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if Best Buy didnt already sell you a Line Output Converter, you'll need one if you want to keep your factory radio. BB should have them in stock for around $20. it'll have 2 speaker level inputs. If you pull the cup holder up out of your center console you'll see a (4) wire harness going into your factory sub enclosure toward the passenger side of the console. The Line Output Converter needs to be tapped into these wires. You can leave the factory sub hooked up if you want... but usually you wont hear it anymore anyway with the new subs. Factory sub wiring colors are as follows:OEM sub voice coil 1 dark blue/white (+) light green/ black (-)OEM sub voice coil 2 dark green (+) light blue/black (-)The other side of the LOC will have RCA outputs that go to your new sub amp. The only other tricky thing about these trucks is that theres no switched 12+ wire behind the radio to hook up your new amp's remote turn-on to. This is because the factory radio turns on and off with the databus system and not the ignition. But if you remove the knee bolster panel under the steering column, and look just to the left of the column, you'll see some larger gauge wires running towards the fuse box. One of these larger wires is Brown. Its the main accessory circuit and you can use it to power the remote turn-on for your new amp. Then you just need a sufficient gauge power wire from the battery or alternator, and equal gauge ground wire as short as possible.Hope this helps.
if Best Buy didnt already sell you a Line Output Converter, you'll need one if you want to keep your factory radio. BB should have them in stock for around $20. it'll have 2 speaker level inputs. If you pull the cup holder up out of your center console you'll see a (4) wire harness going into your factory sub enclosure toward the passenger side of the console. The Line Output Converter needs to be tapped into these wires. You can leave the factory sub hooked up if you want... but usually you wont hear it anymore anyway with the new subs. Factory sub wiring colors are as follows:
OEM sub voice coil 1
dark blue/white (+)
light green/ black (-)
OEM sub voice coil 2
dark green (+)
light blue/black (-)
The other side of the LOC will have RCA outputs that go to your new sub amp.
The only other tricky thing about these trucks is that theres no switched 12+ wire behind the radio to hook up your new amp's remote turn-on to. This is because the factory radio turns on and off with the databus system and not the ignition. But if you remove the knee bolster panel under the steering column, and look just to the left of the column, you'll see some larger gauge wires running towards the fuse box. One of these larger wires is Brown. Its the main accessory circuit and you can use it to power the remote turn-on for your new amp.
Then you just need a sufficient gauge power wire from the battery or alternator, and equal gauge ground wire as short as possible.
Hope this helps.
