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sway bars

CHOP SHOP

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toyota torsion bar as a sway bar? anybody done it? any other ideas for a sway bar on the cheap?

so far currie at around 350 is the best I have found.

why not a torsion bar? will it work? will it last?:beer:
 
toyota torsion bar as a sway bar? anybody done it? any other ideas for a sway bar on the cheap?

so far currie at around 350 is the best I have found.

why not a torsion bar? will it work? will it last?:beer:
I bet it would work, not sure how much twist it will endure, I say try it and let us know the outcome. :awesomework:
 
I bet it would work, not sure how much twist it will endure, I say try it and let us know the outcome. :awesomework:

ive seen some endure over 500,000 miles of twist.:awesomework:

I figured it would take some playing around to figure out the arm length (stiff=short,soft=long).

sound like it would be worth it? every SAS comes with two bars:redneck:
 
Currie states that their bars are different from other types of generic bars because they can allow for more twist and retain their strength. If you think about it, it makes sense that an off road anti-sway bar would require more twist than other types of bars. I know my bars see over 90 degrees of twist. Do the other bars you are considering cover 90 degree + twist?
 
the sway bar from currie has me worried. I would like a little stiffer sway bar than most. the rig in question is not a light weight buggy, it is a toyota tacoma on king coilovers. it flexes great but has aton of body roll. the guy wants to drive it on the street also, so it needs a sway bar/bars.

the currie ad states that if replacing a stock sway bar (TJ kit) with an antirock bar it will have more bodyroll that a stock swaybar allows. that worries me this truck is heavier than a jeep and is not being used for comps or heavy rock duty.

as far as amount of twist, placement and length of arms are going to be key.

it can be a little firmer than most, thats OK, in fact good. it will get a disconnect when used offroad if needed. so massive travel is not a concern for on the road. he can unpin it if gettin flexy.

anybody ever use a oem sway bar from another vehicle? I have been looking at all the rigs I have been following for a couple of days . I have found a couple that are symetrical side to side that would work. just doesnt get the bling points that a trick clamped arm scores, but falls into his budget better.

I feel I am going to be roped into doing this cheaply, so the simpler the better.:awesomework:
 
the sway bar from currie has me worried. I would like a little stiffer sway bar than most. the rig in question is not a light weight buggy, it is a toyota tacoma on king coilovers. it flexes great but has aton of body roll. the guy wants to drive it on the street also, so it needs a sway bar/bars.

the currie ad states that if replacing a stock sway bar (TJ kit) with an antirock bar it will have more bodyroll that a stock swaybar allows. that worries me this truck is heavier than a jeep and is not being used for comps or heavy rock duty.

as far as amount of twist, placement and length of arms are going to be key.

it can be a little firmer than most, thats OK, in fact good. it will get a disconnect when used offroad if needed. so massive travel is not a concern for on the road. he can unpin it if gettin flexy.

anybody ever use a oem sway bar from another vehicle? I have been looking at all the rigs I have been following for a couple of days . I have found a couple that are symetrical side to side that would work. just doesnt get the bling points that a trick clamped arm scores, but falls into his budget better.

I feel I am going to be roped into doing this cheaply, so the simpler the better.:awesomework:

Maybe you should just call them and talk with their engineer...
 
Chop.

Run two. One front, One rear.

Factory TJ replacement is normally only the front. (Yeah, factory does run a rear sway, but seldom is it replaced during lifts) Since it's body roll you're worried about, by placing an additonal one in the rear, it'll counteract the back half body roll.

My turd is heavy. I just got weighed, and I'm 4650 without shocks, driveshafts, tools, fuel, rear bumper/tire swingout, or occupants. Since I'm intending to be exceptionally streetable, I'm planning on running dual swaybars for this reason.

I'm paying close attention to this thread, as I too have to buy my sways.

Pat, at Those Guys, has a Currie-type knockoff swaybar that he runs on his competition buggies with good success. I've not yet priced them as I don't have the money right now, but you should call him at see what they run. I'm leaning more towards Currie, because of thier good reputation.

Tony
 
I have Currie Anti-Rocks at both ends and my rig is extremely stable on the road. The back is on the firmest setting while the front is on the loosest. The down side to that is that I don't really want tons of flex due to Rimrock sidehill wheelin'. You may want more flex and want to use something like a Sway-Loc or just stick to discos.
 
I think I might be going to go with one from the stock car supplier dudes.

they are cheap, stiffer (better for this rig), and cheap.

anyone else run one meant for the circles?:beer:
 

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