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Go to a RZR XP rear trailing arm style then instead of a C1 style, less CV plunge, but more tire scrub, which is a problem ish in whoops, shouldn't be a problem for what you do. That will greatly increase your chances of controlling that wrap. Much like this guy:http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1896162-13m-eaton-nitro-rcv-nwf-novak-4400-ifs-irs-build.htmlYou have substantial torque at the hub trying to rip those arms off. This would let you leave the diff in the same place, CV's same, just add a trailing arm and radius rods. might be creative on the upper radius rod and make it incredibly beefy to mount the shock to. Essentially replace your rear a arms with large radius rods (no front to back control, just in and out control) Would need a wobble stopper or a dip in it to keep the shock force from rolling it over. Cool rig, I love it. Edit: I didn't read page 2 before replying, I'm seeing others are suggesting this already. Either way, very cool
Go to a RZR XP rear trailing arm style then instead of a C1 style, less CV plunge, but more tire scrub, which is a problem ish in whoops, shouldn't be a problem for what you do. That will greatly increase your chances of controlling that wrap. Much like this guy:
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/general-4x4-discussion/1896162-13m-eaton-nitro-rcv-nwf-novak-4400-ifs-irs-build.html
You have substantial torque at the hub trying to rip those arms off. This would let you leave the diff in the same place, CV's same, just add a trailing arm and radius rods. might be creative on the upper radius rod and make it incredibly beefy to mount the shock to. Essentially replace your rear a arms with large radius rods (no front to back control, just in and out control) Would need a wobble stopper or a dip in it to keep the shock force from rolling it over.
Cool rig, I love it.
Edit: I didn't read page 2 before replying, I'm seeing others are suggesting this already. Either way, very cool
