The Now and Zen of Custom Metal Polishing

[InDaShop]

MattO's post on polishing his airshocks, reminded me that Steve Cark also known as "Polisher" on the web ([email protected]) had emailed me his "The Now and Zen of Custom Metal Polishing" back in May 2005.

I am a polishing dork. I need to be sponsored by Mothers, I currently buy it in the case. And go thought it like P through Keystun's.

This is a must read if you ever think about putting shine to anything. Credit where credit is due, Steve Cark is a bad mofo and super knowledgable guy when it comes to shining metal up. visit his website www.englishcustompolishing.com

If you want it in "WORD.doc" shoot me a PM and I can forward it on to you.




A Complete Metal Polishing Guide for Professionals, Enthusiasts and Newcomers alike.

The Now and Zen of Custom Metal Polishing
Or the 6 P’s
(Perfect preparation prevents p*** poor polishing)
By
English Custom Polishing
Custom Metal Polish Manufacturer, Custom Polishing and Plating Shop.
Supplier to and endorsed by the most discerning museums in the world
www.englishcustompolishing.com

This booklet is subject to all the laws of copyright.
It should not be resold, copied, or passed on with out the authors consent.
Any person(s), organization, business or publication wishing to publish, reprint or reproduce this booklet in part or in full should not do so with out first gaining the permission of the author.
Please Contact [email protected]
English Custom Polishing,222 Lincolnville Avenue,Belfast,Maine,04915 U.S.A.
Telephone/fax (207) 338 6939

Introduction:
This book is intended to help and assist both the experienced polisher and the absolute beginner.
It doesn’t matter if you have a stainless steel fabrication you have to turn into a gleaming mirror for a motor yacht, or an old brass plate from a flea market you’d like to restore for curiosity sake or profit, this book will have something to offer.
The offering may be in a slightly off beat manner at times. That is intentional in order to make the book better reading, enabling us to keep your attention, help you retain the information, and us to distribute more copies.
Now imagine the possible consequences of people reading this book. If we stimulate enough people into reading this book and learning what it has to offer, all the dull, tarnished, and oxidized metals around us could soon be bright and gleaming again. That could stimulate an upward trend in the sales of antiques, suntan lotion, sunglasses (We sell them on our website, just in case! ) and even reduce the sales of new vehicles and all manner of hardware and paraphenalia, conserving our planets vital resources, just because the older bits and bobs look better.
Any way, that’s enough of the waffle, let’s get on with the job.
But remember,
The future is always bright if you’re a polisher.

WHAT EXACTLY IS METAL POLISHING AS A PROCESS?
Well, it’s a little bit more than cleaning.
Let’s start with that.
CLEANING, can come in different forms. Wiping it over with a clean rag is dusting. Using a solvent, detergent or powder, to remove dirt and surface grime is cleaning.
By cleaning with the correct chemicals we can even neutralize and remove surface oxidization, and because of the method you would say that was cleaning.
As a note here, beware the ultrasonic cleaner! If you are cleaning Brass, copper or bronze with an ultrasonic cleaner do not use anhydrous chemicals, alternatives are available.
Before you polish the surface has to be clean, that is obvious. Cleaning is a process that contains no abrasion. The moment you add abrasives it becomes polishing.
POLISHING is the process of removing surface imperfections and high spots so that it reflects light rather than absorbs it. The smoother a surface is, the better it is polished, the more light it reflects.
When a piece is polished, what we do is to change its outer surface. We remove larger surface imperfections by scratching them off with various grits. Starting with a coarser grit and reducing it to finer ones.
Each grit has a scratch factor. We work our way from a coarse scratch to one the eye cannot see.
The Ions or small particles on the surface layer become polarized. They line up like soldiers and the surface becomes slightly harder, and more resistant to oxidization, acid and water stains.
Water runs off easier or ponds, as it is unable to cling to the polished surface.
It is higher resistant to corrosion, just because of its smoothness and its improved hardness.
Of course nature will change that with time, and so will we, adding to the corrosion by bombardment with acids and alkalies from handling, atmosphere and all sorts of sources.
WHAT IS CORROSION OR OXIDIZATION?
Corrosion sets in when our ions no longer line up like soldiers.
The pattern has been disrupted by the constant bombardment of the elements, there is confusion in the ranks.
1 little atom stick its head up, and one of those nasty little bits of acid or grime tears his head of and leaves us with a bloody corpse we know as oxidization.
This is the first act of WAR!
Actually oxidization is the bonding of individual atoms from the metal with oxygen. This normally happens when atoms are released by acid or alkali attack.
Once the oxidization starts, if left unattended, it runs rampant. Nuts and bolts seize.
Once bright and beautiful surfaces become gray, then black, or green. Or both.
The Polishers job is to restore this sick and jaded old war hero back to a gleaming piece of lustrous art that even the rain dare hardly touch.
We remove the contamination, cut out the cancer, and restore beauty to the metal.
Incidently, believe it or not many polishes actually cause oxidization.
Or at least, re-oxidization, although they clean and polish the metals.
They may even contain a preserving wax, which of course they will trap the oxidization under!
Most polishes work by using an oxidizing agent such as ammonia, ammonia bi-flouride or sodium hydroxide, to remove corrosion.
The problem is that these chemicals go on working, eating into the metals, causing brittleness, pitting, and fissures or minute cracks.
Some of the worst offenders are household names.
There are some very well known brands which are prime offenders and which have been found to be detrimental for use on brass, bronze or any related alloys.
At the end of the day, cleaners or polishes, which contain ammoniates or anhydrous products no longer have a place in the polishing or restoring industries.
They are very detrimental to any metals, the environment, and often detrimental to health if used in poorly ventilated areas.
So now you have to read the labels!
Chemicals such as these not only attack aluminum and brass, they eat chrome!
There are so called “professional strength cleaners”, which normally means no more than they are very dangerous, if not used correctly. It does NOT mean that they are good for the metals. There is a “professional” liquid chrome cleaner made from hydrochloric acid.
We use hydrochloric acid to STRIP chrome.
Ammonia is also hard on chrome, yet many chrome polishes still use it.
With Sodium Hydroxide in industrial strength you can wipe chrome straight off steel.
There are “ professional” aluminum cleaners or brighteners made from hydroflouric acid. This stuff digests aluminum, which is why it goes white.
As an added bonus, hydroflouric acid is one of the most unstable, volatile and dangerous acids there is.
There are “professional” brass cleaners that contain sodium hydroxide. This stuff will turn brass red. That is because they eat the zinc. The red is copper.
Sodium hydroxide also eats aluminum. It will remove the zinc from steel in a heartbeat and makes the steel brittle.
These products are all bad for your metals.
They are all “professional”, and many so called “professionals” still use them.
To save time!
Not to protect your metals!
One conservator states “We have been using ****** for over 100 years, why should we change now!”
DUH??!!
That’s rather like saying people have been smoking for nearly 400 years, so it must be O.K.!
As far as I’m concerned that conservator should be fired!
One ex military customer contacted me stating “I used B****o to polish my buttons and buckles every day for 14 years, what’s wrong with that?”
EVERYDAY?!!
“ Wow!, what a polish!”
I polish my semi around every 40,000 miles, museums that use our products polish once a year. What’s wrong with that?!
If you ignore the facts and destroy your antiques prematurely, your are destroying OUR history and heritage.
Hardly what conservation is about.

WHY DO WE POLISH?
Well man, and woman, for that matter, are attracted to fine looking objects.
We have gathered and collected fine looking metals and stones since the beginning of time. If it sparkles, glitters or glows we have admired, collected, saved, and even killed for it.
If you ride down the road on a mat black Harley, You’re an outlaw on a smelly, noisy, dirty motorcycle. But if it’s custom polished to the max, it becomes a fine piece of machinery that any man, and many women for that matter, would be glad to ride. Should the motorcycle be noisy, that’s an acceptable sign of latent power, and it can make all the noise it wants, “`COS IT”S A CUSTOM CYCLE!!”
Get my drift?
Who wants a cupboard full of old, dirty and heavily tarnished silver or brassware with its black and green corrosion?
Polish it up and everybody ooh aahs!
Yard sale trash suddenly becomes cash!
Dirty old and rusting steam engines become great feats of engineering that everybody admires, and semi’s, well, I’ve got a soft spot for big rigs any way, but a pretty truck will turn almost as many heads as a pretty woman.
As a polisher, it’s good for our egos to take something ugly and make it beautiful again.
It’s great to restore a beautiful piece of antique silverware, classic boating pieces, components to antique automobiles, and to be able to say, I polished that. Almost any custom car or hot rod, normally gets attention anywhere.
The more it shines, the more attention it gets.
It almost becomes an addiction.
RESTORATION varies from polishing in that the main purpose of restoration is to clean and item and return it to its original condition. Restorers do not like to over polish, and are far more likely to use cleaning agents than polishes.
However, they should also be aware of ammoniates, and be alert to the products that use them.
By the same token when a restorer needs a finish to be bright, they need to achieve that brightness with the minimum of particle removal from the item and so require only the finest of abrasives with anti oxidants and inhibitors. Enhancers should be unnecessary in a restorer’s polish. Vegetable based waxes like carnauba and beeswax should be avoided, of course as they too are acidic.
CUSTOM POLISHING is something else.
Often applying a matte or satin finish is called custom polishing, to us that’s surface finishing.
Custom polishing is taking things that are normally dull and polishing them for the sake of it, to look nice, or to make it perform better. Anyway, custom polishing is about going for the max. Trying to get the most reflective finish that is possible.
Image and colour abound in a polishers world. We see reflections with silvery aluminum glows, the reddish tints of copper and yellow and reddish hues of bronze, the gleaming blaze of brass, the soft pinkish hue of rose brass. Each metal has a colour and warmth of it’s own.
The fact of the matter is whether it is considered good or bad to polish antiques is a personal opinion.
But if it shines, we always admire it.
Preservation on the other hand is cleaning and preserving. Maybe with a little polishing in the necessary places. This is often achieved by the application of waxes (not vegetable based), clear coats, varnishes, laquers or glazes.

SO O.K. WHAT HAS ALL THIS GOT TO DO WITH ZEN?
Well folks, I could always reply with, “ What has Zen got to do with all of this?”
The answer would of course be exactly the same,
ABSOLUTELY NOTHING!
Unless of course you’re a practicing Zen Buddhist who uses polishing as a means of meditation, and so find it a part of the path to enlightenment, in which case,
It’s EVERYTHING!
You’ll see.

WHAT EXACTLY MAKES A POLISH?
Well, a polish is a substance, liquid, powder, paste or compound that that is abrasive.
When applied to a metal, paint, plastic or whatever, it scratches the surface removing minor imperfections and increasing the light reflectivity.
The finer the abrasive, the less material it will remove, and the better the finish it is capable of achieving, and the better the image.
All polishes basically scratch the surface.
Some are coarser than others, and so a coarse polish will cut quickly and gain a degree of brightness, while a finer polish will cut much slower, but be capable of achieving a better finish.
When finishing fabrications a series of abrasive systems and compounds are used.
Any polish is only as fine as its coarsest component! And any one who tells you they manufacture a polish with two different abrasives in it is an idiot. No professional manufacturer would ever dream of doing such a thing.
Any polish capable of producing a mirror on say stainless steel is totally destructive on gold or silver.
Many polishes that are beautiful on gold, silver and even aluminum, will not even touch stainless.
The industry has marketed all manner of polishes in the past, and called most of them universal.
They are NOT!

 

[InDaShop]

Metals and alloys vary in hardness, a soft metal can be polished by almost anything. But a hard metal needs an even harder compound to cut it. (Normally, there are exceptions to every rule.)
We are also governed by the size of the grit as to whether we will get a scratch free surface.
Another governing factor is the shape of the grit.
Some grits will tend to dig and scratch, others lose their abrasive qualities quickly.
Some abrasives are designed to breakdown in use and get progressively finer.
Some retain their cutting ability.
There is no one size fits all polish!
Remember any polish is only as fine as its coarsest component.
Add to that the fact that it will only cut as well as its hardest or sharpest component.
This is why at English Custom Polishing we manufacture a vast range of polishes. Matching abrasive qualities, waxes, inhibitors and enhancers to provide the finest quality polish for the job at hand.
We even balance and neutralise the pH of the polishes to ensure that there is no chemical etch, and to allow the finish to endure as long as is possible.
These are what we refer to as “TARGET POLISHES”
WHAT ARE “TARGET POLISHES?”
These are polishes designed to work on specific metals, providing a finish to suit the environment that it has to last in.
They use specific grades and types of abrasives.
Combined with specific waxes, purposely blended with a particular task in mind.
While they all perform well in most situations they have a particular job, a particular environment and metal that they are aimed at.
TARGET POLISHES, give a better quality finish and last longer within their designed field of application than general purpose polishes.
WHAT IS A WET LAP?
No, it’s not where I spilled my beer, it’s not what the baby did, or me for that matter!
A wet lap is the mechanism used to place the abrasive on the work piece, or the solution that the abrasive is suspended in.
Some wet laps are no more than that. A solution that abrasive is suspended in.
Some wet laps, however, contain anti-oxidants, inhibitors, slip agents, enhancers, waxes and or oils.
At English Custom polishing we believe that the wet lap is as important as the abrasive. Our wet laps contain all that you need to finish the job. Unless of course you intend to lacquer or clear coat the finished article, we have wax free polishes for that purpose.
Our wet laps vary according to what is expected from the polish.
Clear coats and lacquers will not adhere to a waxed finish. They crack and float about.
ARE ALL POLISHES GOOD TO USE WITHIN THEIR SPECIFIED MARKETS?
Well, I’ll let you into a secret.
There are many established and trusted brands of polish that are actually bad to use.
It has been established by a federal research agency, that they will damage what you are trying to preserve in the long run.
The culprits are polishes that use ammonia and anhydrous solvents in their wet lap. These cause fissures and cracks to appear in metals like brass and related alloys.
The most commonly affected being brass, bronze, zinc, aluminum, zincated steels and chrome,(That doesn’t leave much does it?)
These metals either age prematurely and become brittle, or actually disolve, solely due to the use of these polishes.
Many of the brands that use these components are household names, and have been accepted as top brand products for years and command a lot of trust.
In fact, they used to be stalwarts of the military in both the U.S.A, and Europe, and were standard issue for the cleaning of buttons, badges, buckles, medals, etc. No more!
The truth of the matter is that although these products will make your brass ware bright, in six to twelve months, maybe even weeks in some cases, the produced finish will look worse than if you had left it alone.
What you thought was oxidization caused by atmospheric conditions, is actually being caused by your polish.
Now if you’re a metal polish manufacturer, that’s cool, because that means you will need to polish it again.
They sell more products, while your antique corrodes or deteriorates because of over polishing and etching!
Nice move, Mr. Manufacturer!
A product, which makes you need it more, from the first time that you use it.
Now that’s how to do business!
This deal is better than drug racketeering. It’s Legal!
Remember, if it contains ammonia, or anhydrous chemicals, or acid, don’t use it! It will cause premature aging of your piece.
Some polishes have waxes in them too, these are to enhance and protect your finish.
OR DO THEY?
WAXES, LACQUERS, GLAZES,CLEARCOATS AND VARNISHES.
What are they all for?
Basically, the same thing.
To protect and enhance the beautiful finish that you’ve just broke your heart trying to put onto this beautiful piece of metal, right?
WRONG! That is what the industry wants you to think!
O.K. so you say “This guy is a nut!”
What I have said so far has made sense hasn’t it?
Well, you just take this all in.
Museums will not apply clear coats or lacquers
WHY NOT?
Because they are normally porous and trap oxidization underneath them, as well as being hard to get off when a piece needs to be restored.
Plus ALL lacquers and clear coats discolour , ( Some times as soon as they are applied) and deteriorate with age, and so in a museum environment they have to come off, too regularly to be a viable proposition.
Museums are also terrified of vegetable waxes like beeswax, and carnauba.
They are based about vegetable materials and are acidic. They are also porous. That means moisture can and does penetrate them. This causes oxidization and acid corrosion to go on beneath them.
I’m sure you’ve all seen the white clouds that form on cars left in the sun too long.
I’ll let you into another secret.
You only get that on cars that have been waxed.
Unwaxed cars go dull and the paint might even crack if it gets too much heat and is not given the natural oils it needs to keep it soft, but will not get the great white clouds on the bonnet or hood that a waxed car does.
It’s normally removable of course, with the right polish!
Waxing your car will also increase sun damage.
It amplifies the suns ultraviolet rays and fries the paint.
Basically it microwaves it.
As a plus, waxes also collect dust and grit, as they are relatively soft in nature. That can make for an awesome grinding paste on the hood of your car.
On road vehicles waxing, lacquering and clear coating INCREASES PITTING!
YEP, I SAID INCREASES PITTING!
I’ve seen the proof.
I would never own a car with a clear coated paint.
Our truck has a multi-colour paint job. The metal flake areas being sealed with clear coat.
Guess where the paint has failed?
Yep, I’m being contrary again.
Well listen to my reasoning and you’ll see that I really am not so crazy,
Again, this is down to another con operated on us all by the industry!
The reason is very simple.
An armour piercing bullet has a soft outer skin on it.
What is known in the gun industry and military as a full metal jacket. I’m sure you’ve heard the term.
Those of you who have no connections with the gun industry or military, have at least seen the movie.
This outer jacket spreads on impact and keeps the bullet point first and centered, allowing it to penetrate the armour.
In fact the concept of the full metal jacket is not new.
The English put beeswax on their arrowheads at the battle of Agincourt, back in when ever a donkey sits, so that the arrows would pierce the Norman chain mail.
When you wax you are putting a soft outer shell on your item, which guides the road grime and grit into the wheels, tanks, paint or whatever they are supposed to be protecting.
Much the same effect as putting a piece of electrical tape on a piece of body work before you drill it, in order to stop the drill from drifting.
Waxes, lacquers, varnishes and clear coats all discolour with age, as I said earlier. The only exception being synthetic waxes. They can all be a devil to get off. To my knowledge there is no such thing as a perfectly clear, clear coat, wax or lacquer.
They are all coloured.
We have a brand of clear coat, which we use at the shop for marine applications, which is about as clear as we could find, but it still has a slight yellow tint to it, and it still detracts slightly from the finished product.
Synthetic waxes however, are what museums use to protect just about everything that they can apply them to.
Most synthetic waxes are p.h. neutral.
Renaissance is the brand that we favour.
This is solely because it is used by the British Museum and the Smithsonian Institute, amongst others.
If it’s good enough for them it’s good enough for me.
Being P.H. Neutral means they are not acid or alkali, and they do not deteriorate with age. However, they do not like being handled and are easily removed, and so are really only practical in museum and antique environments.
By the same token, I am not denouncing all other waxes, lacquers, glazes, clearcoats or varnishes.
They all have their place, uses and benefits.
To a showman carnauba is invaluable.
It has the capability of buffing to a higher lustre than any other wax known to man.
Lacquers, glazes or clearcoats are about the only way you can preserve bronze or brass on sea faring boats for any period of time.
But when it ages you have to get it off.
That can often cost more than the polishing.
So before you add a coating, ask yourself, do you really need it?
I have run a semi over the road with waxed and unwaxed tanks, and do you want to know what I came up with?
Waxed tanks and wheels look nicer, with out doubt, unless the polish job is absolutely fantastic.
But the unwaxed areas stayed cleaner, longer.
That’s less time repolishing.
AND, repolishes were easier and faster, because there was less over all deterioration in the finish, and I didn’t have all that wax to remove! That was running around 30,000 miles between polishes. Which is 3 years mileage on the average car! About 3 months for the truck.
SO WHY USE THESE PRODUCTS AT ALL?
For the same reason as we polish, they can enhance the appearance of the finished article (beautifully and quickly) when used properly!
Also applying carnauba in winter does give a degree of protection from salt etch.
Carnauba is acid, salt is alkaline, so the salt has to neutralise the acid before it can etch your tanks or wheels.
Of course, it will increase grit damage, so you have to choose which devil you prefer.
Now here’s a little tip for when you do apply a clearcoat, wax lacquer or paint for that matter. Once you’ve finished it, if the piece is small throw it in the oven on about 140 degrees for a few hours.
DON’T USE THE MICROWAVE!! They create a little electric storm that lasts all of two seconds if you throw something metallic in them. Before you realise what you’ve done it’s too late. They go to microwave heaven! Never to nuke a hotdog, or in my case, hotdog in a foil tray, again.
If you are in a hot climate you can use mother nature.
Stick your pieces out in the sun for a day, covered with black plastic. 140 degrees, no problem! You’ll achieve that with about 90 degrees air temperature in direct sunlight in a couple of hours.
Remember, decide if you need it, and if you need the extra work that it entails. If you intend to sell the item, If you want to have an O.k. finish 12 months down the road, and are prepared to accept the long term deterioration, if you are a showman and don’t mind doing what it takes to win. Or if you just like the little bit extra lustre or even the feel of the finish. Use them!
I used them on my truck, but I put in the extra work. If I went onto dusty work, or knew it was going to be a while before I could hit it again. Then I used HOT ENVIRONMENT POLISHES.
These are wax free. Waxes go grey when they get hot. So most polishes are unsuitable for use on superchargers, turbochargers, manifolds, overheads, carburetors, intercoolers, overhead cam covers or parts of the engine that suffer with heat. The hot environment polishes definitely do better on exhaust stacks and bumpers too.
Just because the bugs and dust won’t stick to them so much.
Again, if you need a polish for these applications, let us know and we’ll supply the polish for the job.
HOW DO I KNOW WHICH POLISHES I SHOULDUSE?
Now that really is a six million dollar question! It is much easier to tell you what not to use, but I am not about to start slamming other products, so where do we begin?
Well, you can read the manufacturers label.
Not forgetting the fact that they are trying to sell you their products, and see what metals the product is recommended for.
Check out if it suits the environment it has to live in.
Check out what waxes it contains.
Don’t expect too much information to come from the manufacturer.
Apart from the fact he is trying to sell you his product, he has to put directions on the label too. Plus, the company logo. They only have so much space to work with.
Stay away from all polishes that contain ammonia, acid or anhydrous products.
You can smell it, normally, if it is not stated on the bottle.
Very sour and pungent odour, just the same as smelling salts, but milder is a sure sign of ammonia.
Avoid vegetable based waxes like carnauba, unless you are into competition finishes and repolishing. That is a regular requirement if you use carnauba.
Avoid clear coats and lacquers, unless you are a boater, or have similar problems with extreme atmospheric corrosion in which case they justifiably have their place.
Watch out what you use on exhausts, manifolds, cam covers, locomotive tubing, and any areas subject to heat. Most polishes become grey when they are subjected to heat. Those that can tolerate heat, at all, normally become soft and sticky. A great way to collect dust and bugs is polish the stacks of a semi and then take it out on a desert highway just before sundown. You will find every species of bug known to man after just one good night in the desert. Really the same goes for your paint. If you polish with the right grade of polish, water will pond on flat metal or paint, just like it has been waxed. Just for the simple reason that if the surface is truly flat, the water has nothing to cling to. But while water will run off your surface, will dust and grit do the same? On a waxed surface it will stick more. Especially if it is hot!
You can always contact a company like English Custom Polishing, or one of our competitors to find out what they would recommend for you.
If you read the rest of the booklet at least you will know what they are talking about, and if they are talking sense, or if it is just a representative giving you sales hype.
You will be able to find out if the company manufactures one polish, or a range of products, and what their products are targeted at.
Many companies will only make a single line of polish. It is up to you to find out what that polish is intended to work on.
If it is a regular automotive polish you don’t want to use it on your best silver. By the same token you cannot ask a product intended for use on antiques to remove scratches on wheels and tanks.
Is it formulated for use on a specific metal?
If it is a general purpose polish, will it do what you need?
Will it last?
Will it be easy to apply and remove?
Does it contain ammonia?
Does it use waxes? Anti oxidants? Inhibitors? Enhancers? Slip agents?
If you have a yes to the right questions then you should try it. Especially if you have seen the results obtained with it at the hands of an aquaintance, and the results were not only good, but lasting.
WHAT ARE DEGREASING AGENTS?
Most polishes will act as a degreasing agent just by their nature.
It is an expensive way of doing things though, and all surface grease and oil should be removed from the surface prior to its being polished.
Commercial car wash liquids sold by the gallon at any car accessory store are cheap, fast and good.
Again, avoid ammonia or nitrous products. Don’t use ordinary washing up liquid. Not only is it more expensive, it probably has ammonia in it and even if it doesn’t it’s not particularly good for your polish or paint.
Simple green and Joy are both excellent detergents.
A gallon of commercial car wash from any accessory store will cost about as much as a pint of washing up liquid. So it’s a no brainer.
BUT MAKE SURE IT IS NOT A WAX WASH.

 

[InDaShop]

WHAT ARE ANTIOXIDANTS?
Just that, they are chemicals that attack and breakdown oxides. They attack rust and corrosion, helping the abrasives in the polishes to clean and polish true metal, not rust.
At English Custom Polishing we believe in releasing these oxides from the metals, and using them to work as abrasives for us.
Now this makes a lot of sense. This is because an oxide is always harder than the surface it comes off.
It will be no coarser than the abrasive used to release it.
It will contain almost all of the properties of the metal that it is released from.
All polishes should have an antioxidant in them.
Even Stainless oxidizes, albeit slowly.
You should always remember that stainless steel is not stain proof. It merely stains less! So beware of overheating stainless, not only may you warp it, but you will release the carbon from it, then it will rust. It won’t be stainless any more.
INHIBITORS
On the other hand inhibitors go to work when the polish job is finished.
It is their job to prevent the oxidization from returning.
Inhibitors set up a defensive barrier against oxidization and help protect from naturally occurring acid or salt attack.
Coupled with the fact that any polished surface is far more corrosion resistant than an unpolished one, inhibitors go a long way towards protecting the finish. They sit on the surface in a microscopic layer and help prevent acids, salts and oxidization disrupting the ions that I spoke of earlier.
That’s when the corrosion or oxidization sets in, and that’s when you need to polish it again.
Polishes that contain inhibitors are able to keep their finishes longer. That means less wear of the piece and less work for the polisher. That also happens to mean less expense for the polishee.
What is a polishee? You ask.
If they don’t do it themselves, the polishee is the owner of the piece, or payer of the bill!
O.K. so I made that up, but why not? I’m trying to keep this light.
SLIP AGENTS
These are sometimes combined in polishes.
These help the polish to be moved around the piece that you are polishing, and also help prevent the polish from setting prematurely on you.
So many of the pastes and creams suffer with this problem. Especially when polishing in hot climates.
Slip agents help to eliminate drag as you are polishing, and in effect make the job slightly easier, much like lubricating any surface. This allows you to use the abrasive content in the polish to its maximum.
DO NOT POLISH IN DIRECT SUNLIGHT!
This will make chemicals in the polishes evaporate, before they can do their job. Also causing the polish to set and harden before it has had time to do its work. So the problem is compounded. The anti-oxidants won’t have time to work, the slip agents won’t slip, the polish won’t cut. You end up pushing a dirty sticky mess around your work piece that only seems to get stickier and WON’T come off! And the enhancer will be enhancing a lousy finish, which will probably be hazy to boot.
So don’t be hard on your self. Polish in the shade and allow the components of the polishes to work efficiently.
TURNING YOUR CLOTH.
This is another trick the industry has foisted on the public. If your surface is smooth surely the residue will all come off! It will only stick in pits. Turning your cloth will not keep your residue out of the pits.
It will make your wetlap evaporate, depleting anti-oxidants, and drying your abrasive.
Which just makes you use more polish.
When you apply your liquid polishes, DON’T TURN YOUR CLOTH as soon as it gets dirty, keep rubbing the residue in.
MAKE IT WORK FOR YOU!
It’s oxidization, which is harder than the metal it came from.
No coarser than the abrasive that you are using in your polish, and probably in the case of aluminum oxide,exactly what your polish is made of.
Not turning the cloth will make the oxidization work in your favour by allowing you to use less polish, it will make you rub in any enhancers, inhibitors, waxes or what ever else is in the polish you are using.
Turn your cloth when you want to take the residue off.
Then rebuff it with a clean cloth. Only use white cloths for finishing, and inspect them regularly.
Every time you finish an area, inspect your cloth. If it has ANY dirt on the cloth, buff it again with a clean cloth. When your cloth is perfectly clean, so is your finish! Once it looks perfectly clean, then it is time to go over it with the microfibre. This will take off dirt you didn’t even see. Get into nooks and crannies like nothing else, and really enhance the finish.
I didn’t believe how good these products were until I tried one.
Now I always finish with microfibre.
ENHANCERS.
These are waxes, lacquers, clearcoats varnishes and oils. They are sometimes incorporated into polishes in order to make the polish job really stand out. The most successful enhancers on metals being waxes and oils. How they actually work is that they sit the finished surface and trap the light, while not reducing the reflectivity of the piece. Infact, they enhance it. Hence the name.
Many polishes contain enhancers.
However, they do nothing to actually improve the true finish of the metal.
Some polishes do no more than slightly polish the surface and leave a layer of oil or wax so thick that all you need is one dusty road and the polish job is wasted.
The surface then becomes layered with an abrasive mix of wax and grit.
Not good!
Of course another negative is the fact that waxed or oiled surfaces do not lend themselves to lacquer, varnish, glaze or clear coat. It reduces the adhesion to the point of being abysmal. No lacquered, varnished , glazed or clear coated surface should be pre-polished with a polish that contains oils or waxes. In fact, you should be careful when you polish these surfaces, not to out do yourself. Hard coatings, like varnishes, lacquers and clear coats do not like highly polished surfaces and tend to crack up and float about.
Quite simply, they do not have enough adhesion.
This often results in a crazy network of lines like a road map all over the item, with the odd section occasionally coming off completely. Allowing oxidization to get in between the cracks and run rampant.
You only have to look at an old set of wheels from a seventies or eighties car to see what I mean.
Normally clearcoats and lacquers begin to fail after two years. You are doing well, and I mean very well if you can get five years out of these products without discoloration or oxidization setting in. Many last only a season(3 months) before deterioration sets in. On high mileage vehicles the life expectancy of these products is considerably less. Should you decide that they are the best products for your needs, be very careful how you apply them. Follow the manufacturers requirement to the letter.
Make sure that the surface you apply them to is warm enough. Most clearcoats and lacquers like to be applied in temperatures above 60 degrees Farenhiet.
Do not go for the ultimate lustre before you apply the coating. It will need something to key into.
DO NOT USE THEM ON ANTIQUES!! They will increase the damage caused by ultrviolet light. In fact most museums use filters on their lighting systems to reduce U.V. damage and do not like people using cameras with flash because of the deterioration that U.V. light causes, and with a flash camera the U.V. burst is very, very intense. There are some glazes however that reduce U.V. damage, but they can be hard to remove. Choose them with care.
GLAZES are much better at preserving lustre than clear coats and waxes, appear to bond better and are normally based on a polymer known as poly syloxene, commonly known as liquid glass. It does a good job at enhancing just about anything and lasts 6 months to 3 years, depending on conditions and application.
But be warned, not many of them live up to the manufacturers claims.
REMOVING CLEARCOATS, LAQUERS, GLAZES AND WAXES.
Not such a pleasant job.
It takes some pretty strong strippers sometimes. Stick to thick strippers. They adhere to the surface and get the chance to do something. Liquid strippers run off and end up on what ever is underneath your piece serving no useful purpose, spreading fumes, causing brain damage and harming the environment.
Always wear a protective mask and work in very well ventilated areas when working with strippers, and of course avoid skin contact, as they are all pretty severe irritants. Always protect yourself as much as possible from contact or inhilation of fumes from these products. Especially ones that contain acetone, ketone, formaldehyde, toluene and especially M.T.K. and M.E.K.!
I know of one clear coat manufacturer who actually recommends that people wash off with acetone! Another recommends mineral spirits or turpentine to remove their products from the skin.
YEAH RIGHT!!
We all need kidney or liver failure. Mineral spirits are not as bad as acetone, but they can still mess you up.
Ignore these idiots they are dangerous.
Just because they may come from a big company doesn’t make their actions or recommendations safe.
After all, what about cigarettes, M.T.B.E. thalidomide, Vioxx, etc.
The list of products that have come onto the market and have had to be withdrawn because they are detrimental to health is massive.
Because these “EXPERTS” come from large companies don’t believe that they won’t give you bad advice.
The authorities new about mad cow disease in the 1980’s and livestock are still being fed offal in 2004, c’mon!
Yep, I trust these big company moguls, like I trust politicians, NOT A LOT, BUT I TRUST THEM!
Some of them have been known to actually lie and distort figures in order to sell their products. These moguls care about money, not lives.
Basically, if you have to get something off your skin use soap.
Use a pumice soap if it is really bad.
The safest course of action is to not get it on you in the first place.
DO NOT USE THINNERS OR SOLVENTS TO REMOVE ANYTHING FROM YOUR SKIN.
THEY CAN KILL YOU!
REMOVING RUST WITH ELECTROLYSIS.
Fill a plastic tub with water, if you can add heat by small heater that’s even better, a temperature of 140 Farenhiet is great.
Add ½ to 1 lb of sodium Bicarbonate per gallon, and place a set of steel anodes at either end, these should equal at least twice the surface area of the parts you need to strip, on two opposite ends, on all four sides is even better.
Connect the anodes to the positive side of a battery charger, hook a copper or better still a clean steel wire to your parts, and connect that to the negative side of the charger.
Switch on and watch it fizz.
For most smaller parts 10 â€" 30 amps is plenty.
The actual current draw varies but on a 400 square inch piece, which is pretty big, you should draw no more than 10 amps, and that will fall of dramatically as rust comes away from the part.
Leave it for a couple of hours then wipe of any remaining rust with 00 wire wool.
Seriously rusted parts can be reconstituted if left in the bath long enough, but this may take 24 to 32 hours under power and new metal is very, very grainy, but at least it’s metal.
Dispose of waste by evaporating water and drying sludge on a tarp, if you have a lot.
Clean up with kitchen towels and burn them if it’s only a little.
Take dried sludge or ash in a sealed container to your local transfer station.
As dry waste it will be accepted.
There are alternative solutions, but this is the only method I know that will not remove chrome, Cadmium or Zinc plating.
It is also an excellent technique for freeing old and frozen tools like socket wrenches, universals, etc.
ABRASIVES.
There are so many abrasives out there too. Some better in one application than another. The ability of any abrasive to cut is dependent on three things.
1) Its general size and coarseness or grit.
2) The shape of the abrasive crystal.
3) The hardness of that particular crystal.
The size and coarseness determines how deep the scratch is that any one crystal can make.
How well that crystal can actually achieve its maximum cut is determined by the angles between the edges.
In other words a thin crystal will slice, and a cuboid or round crystal will turn over. If the crystal is relatively soft it will not hold a good cutting edge particularly long. The same applies if the crystal is very brittle. It may cut like nothing in this world, but not for long.
The industry actually develops abrasives with crystals of perfected shapes for various cutting operations. Aluminum oxides make very good general purpose abrasives and come in various grades, but they fail very quickly on harder metals like Chrome and Stainless.
Ferrous oxides used in Jewelers Rouge (which is red and used on gold) are also quick to loose their abrasion next to a chromium oxide.
Chrome oxide is the preferred abrasive for finishing stainless and nickel.
By the same token, while the general stainless compounds are awesome cutters with great mirror qualities, theyused fused aluminas which leave a deep scratch compared to good chrome oxides and calcined aluminates.
So for our finish we go for the softer and less enduring alumina compounds, which have great colouring characteristics but less aggression.
Colouring is the term given to forming a mirror finish, and denotes the ability of the finish to reflect light and colour. Image.
The term actually comes from jewelers using rouge to “Colour” gold, with ferric oxide, because it stains the gold as it polishes.
EMERY is a coarse hard cutting abrasive that is normally the first buffing stage of a polishing job. Leaves a satin finish when applied with sisal wheels.
STAINLESS STEEL compounds, or at least compounds blended to cut stainless, is what I should really say, tend to be good cutting compounds, and give a reasonable start to your mirror. Very necessary when working on stainless and other hard metals.
FERRIC OXIDE is the foundation of jewelers rouge. It peeves me to hear all other abrasives in bar form called jewelers rouge, very often by the industry itself, I might add. Jewelers rouge is made of a synthetic rust, basically. That’s why it’s red. Rouge is french for red. If it is yellow, blue, green, white or any other colour but red, if it is made of any other abrasive than Ferric oxide. IT AIN’T ROUGE!
ZIRCONIUM compounds tend to be quite soft cutting, but cut they will, and very good for finishing chrome, stainless and other metals. These compounds have good colouring characteristics. Very slow cut. Some abrasives using zirconium cut quite well and become progressively finer with use as the crystals break down. This is actually intended, and can in the right situation save going from grit to grit.
Cubic Zirconium on the other hand is quite a hard cutter and will fracture to expose new cutting edges and will progressively cut until the abrasive is exhausted.
TRIPOLI is a fairly good and hard cutting compound, which breaks down very quickly, available in various grades for use on softer metals like aluminum, copper, brass, etc. and also has quite good colouring characteristics.
Infact, tripoli comes from missouri and is a combination of a particular silica and clay which happens to occur only in that area.
CHROMIUM OXIDE tends to be a finer, yet harder cut than tripoli, but comes in some quite fine grades making it suitable for finishing chrome, and stainless. ( It is chrome and nickel that gives stainless its brightness.) it is also very good on nickel, titanium and cadmium. Because it can be of super fine quality it is often used in the dental and jewelry industry, it is replacing jewelers rouge in many quarters. It is also quite expensive as abrasives go.
ALUMINUM OXIDE, the hardest ( Naturally occurring) compound on the planet, only pure carbon (diamond) is harder.
It is a good cutter for aluminum and removes the blueing that you get on overheated chrome.
It will give a nice finish on copper, brass, bronze and soft alloys.
Finer grades have very good colouring abilities. Aluminum oxide is probably the most popular abrasive in industry today.
The crystals are grown in many wondrous shapes and sizes and are available in a wide variety of grades.
ALUMINUM SILICATE gives a beautiful lustre to about everything that you put it on but it is a soft cutter and takes time on harder metals like stainless, nickel, titanium and chrome.
CALCINED ALUMINUM OXIDE is superfine, expensive and gives an awesome finsh on just about anything, but it is a slow abrasive for finishing only.
SILICONE CARBIDE, mean down and dirty aggressive abrasives tend to use silicone carbide. Tough stuff! But it breaks down quite quickly.
SILICA, the most common abrasive of all is the most abundant element on the planet. Under every ocean, in just about every area of the world in some form or another you can find silica, somewhere. Very good in lower grits.
Aluminates and chromium oxides are available in very superfine grades, and can be fine enough for optical polishing, and are often used in scientific applications.
Of course some compounds cut better than others just because of the shape of the crystals they are made from, and generally they cut less as they become finer, but that is not necessarily a hard and fast rule. Some compounds can retain good cutting characteristics at very fine grades. Which means that they give quality finishes quicker.
These are not all of the compounds and abrasives on the market but constitute the most common.

 

[InDaShop]

BUFFWHEELS AND POWERBUFFING.
Firstly a safety note. Never allow dust from two different metals to mix. They become overloaded with static, react between each other and become big fireworks.
They can be a serious form of fire. Hot, and hard to extinguish.
Vacuum when you finish polishing, then empty your vacuum, shop vacs are the best type because you know they are empty.
No, don’t dump a big pile of it on the garden bonfire while it’s burning, it’ll put you on your butt.
Been there!
Done that!
I thought the pretty sparks would amuse the kids!
They laughed more at my lack of eyebrows!
So don’t be clever and end up a fool.
AIRBORNE BUFFING DUST CAN EXPLODE VIOLENTLY!
Give yourself a draft to move it out.
People do not get out of dust explosions alive.
AIRBORNE DUST IS TOUGH ON YOUR LUNGS.
Tiny particles of aluminum, stainless, or whatever else you’re polishing, along with a big dose of aluminum oxide and cotton is not conducive to healthy living.
Wear a good quality respirator!
Don’t buff in your basement, especially if you have a furnace.
Use a large humidifier to dampen atmosphere and make dust fall, or use an air exchange unit.
An industrial humidifier will do both jobs.
So okay, enough, lets get on.
There are basic and fundamental differences between using a hand held power buff, a pedestal buff, and a bench grinder adapted to buffing. On a proper pedestal buff the buff wheels stand out from the pedestal enough to allow access to both top and bottom edge of the wheel. If guards are fitted they should be rotary. Allowing access to both top and bottom edges. The top edge of the buff normally rotates towards you. The buffing process is carried out on the lower section off the buff where the rotation is both downward and away from you. The piece is pulled backwards and forwards along this area, ensuring that a leading edge of the piece never comes in contact with the wheel. That will cause it to snag. When needed this is the area that compound is applied to the wheel. Again, present no leading edges. Hold the compound to the buff until the wheel is visibly full. This will take 2 to 4 seconds. Depending on how warm the compound is. With a bench grinder the shield is fixed and in the wrong place to allow this and the area of work is the front area where the wheel is rotating towards you. I do not like this set up. It is the wrong place to apply compound, and definitely the wrong place to be holding a piece of stainless in my opinion. But there are those amongst us that do it for what ever reason, be it economics or convenience. This set up means that you cannot see the piece you are buffing with out removing it completely away from the buff. Please be careful when using this type of set up.
Or better still, modify the guard so you can work on the lower area of the wheel.
The final set up using a hand buff is potentially the most dangerous. You have to move the buff over the metal, being aware of cables, fittings, fixtures and all sorts of traps if you are working on a boat, car, truck or whatever. You have to be aware as you move into different areas of what is around you and what the draft of your buff may disturb. The last thing you want to do is foul up the lights, or get lashed by the cable as you foul up the lights.
Then get a ticket from D.o.T. to go with the medical bill and the pain.
That would really suck!
Anyway, on a hand held buff the wheel normally rotates so that the top edge turns away from you. The farthest edge turning downward. It is on the top away and downward edge that we apply the compound. But we buff with the lower edge. That is turning downwards and towards you.
This is where you have to be careful not to snag anything. If something is insecure or breaks lose you might catch it anywhere between the crown jewels and the eye.
Even worse, you might scratch the workpiece or spill your coffee.
And we all know what I think of that!
So be CAREFUL with this kind of tool.
The fact that you are moving the tool probably trebles the snag factor. So always wear your goggles or face mask.
An apron will often soak up a lot of force of anything going between your legs. If you don’t trust that, wear a groin box and be branded as a paranoid. (And don’t forget to cover your coffee to keep the dust out.)
Now BUFF WHEELS come in all sorts of sizes and shapes, the most important thing to remember is your cutting speeds and the formula <Diameter X 3 over 4. >This is your surface feet per minute. Or S.F.P.M. Most compounds are good for 7200 feet per minute, some prefer to move a little slower, but I know of no compound that likes to travel faster.
It will leave the buff and you’ll end up wearing it.
To save you the effort of working it out, and a little soap, I’ve made up the following table:

R.P.M
Dia. 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000

2” 500 750 1000 1250 1500 1750 2000 2250 2500
4” 1000 1500 2000 2500 3000 3500 4000 4500 5000
6” 1500 2250 3000 3750 4500 5250 6000 6750 7500
8” 2000 3000 4000 5000 6000 7000
10” 2500 3750 5000 6250 7500

The speeds given are surface feet per minute. The end of the 8 and 10” tables being left blank because they are unimportant. Compound will not stay on buff wheels at speeds in excess of 7500 feet per minute, with a 4” buff you can actually turn at speeds of up to 7,000 rpm quite safely and a two inch is good to 14,000. So your Dremels and other really small tools will work.
Small tools tend to be slow because the surface area they cut with is so small, plus the fobs have to be almost continuously loaded with compound so that they can cut, as the abrasive is in contact with the metal much more when the diameter of the wheel is so tiny.
I mean think about it.7200 feet per minute is 1.36 miles per minute. That is 81.6 miles per hour or 130.56 kilometres if you are a European. That is a lot of surface going over your work piece. If it is not loaded with abrasive and doing it’s job, that’s a lot of wasted effort.
I have heard a lot of people complain that these high speed small rotary tools will not do their job. Well, You gotta put abrasive on it, bud!
Don’t try and load it every 3 or 4 minutes, your not being fair. You can’t expect the abrasive to last much more than 20 or thirty seconds before it needs loading again, I mean, it’s already travelled ½ a mile or more, grinding its heart out on a hard piece of stainless or whatever, give it a chance, LOAD IT UP!
A word of warning. If you have only one buff wheel, do your stainless first if you are buffing a boat or semi. If your buff wheel becomes contaminated with steel your stainless will stain!
It can go all the colours of the rainbow.
You can do chrome or aluminum 1st, no problem.
But touch one steel bolt or bracket and you might get a nasty result when you go to your stainless. So either isolate your stainless buffs from the rest, or do it first, your choice.
Also many people tend to overspeed with buffs. They often achieve reasonable results. However, by working at the optimal speed for the cutting compound, you will achieve better! The compound stays on the buff and cuts longer, while generating less heat. Buffs that are over sped, not only tend to scratch the surface, they can fly apart.
Not a good thing!
They generate unnecessary heat.
Again, not a good thing. They are also harder to control.
Another downside is that the operator tends to wear all the abrasive.
BUFFS.
There are sisal buffs, which make excellent coarse cuts and leave a satin type finish on the surface. They are also very good for tearing out the marks left from machining and coarse polishing. They work well with emery and coarse stainless compounds.
Then we have hybrid sisal and canvas buffs, these still cut exceptionally hard and are used with hard cutting compounds like emery and stainless, maybe a good tripoli.
Very popular are the reinforced canvas buffs. Some of them are mill treated to help stiffen them. Some of them are stitched in many innovative and unusual ways to help stiffen them up.
These work very well with tripoli, stainless and aluminum oxide, they are still quite coarse but really are the beginning of your mirror.
We also have canvas pleated buffs, some being mill treated or reinforced to stiffen them. The pleating allows them to hold more compound than an unpleated buff. This of course makes them cut better and run cooler.
After the canvas buffs come the linen buffs. These are for use with fine compounds. They have no great degree of stiffness, and are for use as the project nears completion.
These buffs are normally used with very fine chrome oxides, or fine aluminates.
Finally we come to buffs like canton cotton and domet. These are finishing buffs only. We use these to apply very fine abrasives. When they become old and too dirty to finish with use them to apply slightly harder cuts.
Then lastly come the loose flannel buffs, these are for bringing up the super lustre and scratch free finishes.
These are only the basic catagories of buffs and many manufacturers have many variations and methods of binding or reinforcing. You have to get out there and find out what works for you. The options can be astounding.
Nearly all buffs are designed to run with clamps around the inner core. These not only stiffen the buff, but also help to stop them flying apart. Many buffs can be unsuitable for hand machines just because of this factor. The arbor just isn’t long enough to take the clamps. If a buff is intended to have clamps you are being foolish to use them with out. Should it come apart, the centre could do you some serious injury. Always use clamps when using pedestal buffs. The arbors are normally big enough to accept them.
Sewn buffs come with all manner of stiching.
½ and ¼ sewn buffs are sewn with circles around them.
These get very soft when the stitching breaks and then harden up as they wear towards the next sewn circle.
Spiral sewn buffs are designed to maintain a reasonable stiffness by breaking the stitching a set distance from the edge and are directional.
Cross stitched and diamond stitched buffs are supposed to create pockets that carry the abrasive as they wear.
NOW WE COME TO THE 6 P’s.
There are only 5 if you are polite! Or in the company of ladies or youngsters.
What are the 6 P’s?
Perfect Preparation Prevents Pxxx Poor Polishing!
Preparation is everything!
If you have bad scratches or surface imperfections to remove, you must always pay attention to the 6 P’s.
Every process and cut other than the final polish must be looked upon as a complete preparation cycle in itself.
If you skimp or cut short any one stage of the process you will end up with a scratched or hazy surface. It will haunt you!!
After 6 or 7 machine cuts with a belt polisher and rotary tools and 4 or 5 buffing operations, can you imagine how it feels to hold a beautiful piece of perfect brass or stainless up to the light and see a scratch.
Just one. One PEACH of a scratch, right there, RIGHT IN THE MIDDLE OF THE BELLY, or CROWN!
Trapping the light and glaring at you so much that even a blind man on a stampeding horse at midnight can see it!
Well, you’re going to have to pay the price and do it again. And just to make it worse, don’t think that just another final cut will get rid of it. NO WAY JOSE! You have to go back to a cut that is at least as coarse as that scratch, which is normally way, way back in the earlier stages.
You Broke The Law! And no one is above the law, not the law of the six p’s anyway.
The 6 P’s cannot be ignored, EVER!
Every stage is a preparetory stage for the next one. Right up to the ultimate finishing polish.
Leave one mark from a previous cut visible and it will haunt you to the end.
Make sure you have the best equipment available to do the job. Make sure that you have enough room to work in, nobody wants cables to get tied in knots, pulling other items to the floor, spilling chemicals, compounds, coffee
(OH,XXXX , NOT THE COFFEE, AGAIN!) or polishes, damaging pieces or just being a nuisance.
Always clear your work area.
Give yourself room.
Dress for the occasion! I guess you could say that’s a preparetory stage. Tuxedos have no place in the polishers world. Bandanas or skull caps are useful. Wear a face mask.
If you’re going to do a lot of polishing get a proffessional respirator.
It might cost you $40.
YOU’RE WORTH IT!
Cover exposed areas of skin.
Tuck away long hair to prevent it becoming entangled in machinery.
Wear clothing free of metal buttons, buckles, badges, zippers, studs or clasps. They can all scratch your work piece.
In fact, a brand label on your polishing cloth can scratch your work.
Rip or tear them off.
Don’t wear clothing that is excessively lose or baggy.
Better still, wear an apron or coveralls to protect your clothes. But remember to tie any bow at the back.
I’d hate for someone to discover you hanging from a pedestal, red faced and suspended from your apron strings, or for it to snag on a hand held buff and have it direct 2 ½ horsepower and a fully loaded emery buff at your crotch. Remove necklaces, bracelets and collar pieces that may become entangled. Make sure that cuffs are fairly tight fitting and use barrier cream for your hands. Protect your eyes with goggles or a full face visor when you are power buffing. Make sure that what you are buffing is secure, or if you are taking it to the buff ensure that the pedestal is solid and so is your grip on the item.
Just like in the song, hold on loosely, but don’t let go.
A tight grip will become tiring and will not last.
Use a loose grip and keep the piece stable, of course when you approach the buff make sure that you contact it at a point which will pull the item away from you, should it snag.
If you contact the buff wheel at a point where it is rotating in your general direction, should it snag you might just end up wearing it. Better off to approach the other side of the wheel so if it snags it will fly away from you. Bystanders and onlookers can handle the pain and inconvenience much better than you, after all you have a polishing job to do!
Do not buff beside your new car! Custom cycles or anything else you value.
Flying pieces might hit it! If they don’t you will succeed in covering it with compound. In fact you will cover everything in your workshop with compound unless you have some kind of extractor system, and if you intend doing a lot of polishing.
THAT IS A MUST.

 

[InDaShop]

The various metals if inhaled or skin absorbed WILL damage your health in a big way if you don’t TAKE PRECAUTIONS!
Beware of edges! When a buff contacts the leading edge of any item it WILL snag. When you approach edges, be sure that it is a trailing edge, and on the outward rotating area of the buff.
Always ensure that all exposed areas of skin are protected from flying particles, burrs and polish, and of course ensure that your buff wheel is tight and turning at speeds within its design specification.
Finally, make sure that your buff will fit into all the areas which you are going to work, corners and edges of other pieces around the component can sometimes get you into trouble, grabbing the wheel and locking it up, or damaging the piece.
If you have a very powerful buffer it may even damage you, Jamming your wheel and transferring all the torque of the machine into your wrists, snapping your hands into what ever may be around your work, or the work piece itself.
Quite a painful experience, I can assure you.
Oh, and I almost forgot, watch out for burrs and sharp edges. They’ll get you every time!
The last thing you need is a load of claret (blood) everywhere, spilling all over your beautiful work piece and making a mess of your work area.
Blood will stain and etch almost any metal it contacts if it is not removed immediately, so if you do cut yourself, clean up NOW!
NOT YOU!
THE WORKPIECE!
You come second!
I told you that blood will etch!
DEALING WITH FABRICATIONS and CASTINGS.
From the machined finish to the perfect mirror!
This in itself is work, especially if you are working with a hard metal like stainless. If your item is flat and requires a straight line finish, you will need a belt polisher. Normally the wider the better, in that you want the belt to be wider than your work piece. Where possible. We use our Band-its on very large pieces. These are very stable hand held machines that remove metal FAST!We normally begin with around a 120 grit belt. A coarser grade is rarely necessary. We remove all machine marks and surface imperfections. Once this is done, we repeat the process with a 180 grit belt, where possible cutting at 90 degrees to the first cut in order to see when all surface marks left by the first cut are removed. We then cut across the second cut with around a 240 grit belt, then we repeat the process with something around 320, then 400 grit, and again with around a 600 grit. Then maybe a 1200 grit. From here on in we are ready to use compounds and buff wheels.
For parts like valve covers and inlet headers which have several contours we powerbuff from as low as 60 grit using greaseless compounds.
Quite simply, nothing follows contours like a buff wheel.
We will go from 60 through to 1000 grit using the greaseless abrasives,
Then we are ready to buff with conventional abrasives like coarse stainless compound and begin our mirror.
We start with coarse stainless compound, then on to a fine stainless. Then we move to maybe chromium oxide or a zirconium which will truly begin the coloring process, and finish off with calcined alumina for a magical scratch free finish. Scratch Free? Why sure! Four things are important in getting a scratch free finish,
1) Don’t hurry! Be sure to remove all traces of previous cuts before progressing to the next.
2) Move your buff slowly and cut at the right speeds for the wheels and compounds you are using.
3) Use a very light touch and go over your work surface as gently as you can on your final cuts. Don’t be heavy on the buff, It’s unnecessary and forces the abrasive to dig into your piece.
4) When you have reached your last cut, you haven’t. Well, you don’t really cut it again, you give it a light misting with water and then sprinkle on some flour, talcum powder or sodium bicarbonate, and buff it again with a nice soft buff like a domet.
5) Don’t handle your finished piece with anything metallic, in fact don’t handle it. The chances are your hands have enough grit on them to make a mess of it. Use a soft cloth.
Either way we haven’t got that far yet, lets get back to the job.
Sometimes a belt polisher is not practical, in which case the process has to be done with normal rotary tools. Dual Action sanders work well. Stability is the problem with smaller tools, so use the biggest cutting face you can fit on your tools if this is the option that you have to pursue, and watch your speed. The manufacturers of the disks and wheels make them to so many different specifications that it really is impossible to list cutting speeds. However, the manufacturers recommendations should never be exceeded, and turning slower will only improve stability. Follow the same methodology of crossing your cuts, and reducing your grits until you reach the buff wheel stage. REMEMBER, most castings are porous to some degree. Once you have obtained a nice smooth finish on your casting leave it at that. If a pit mark suddenly appears out of nowhere, it’s in the casting. In Brass and aluminum these can often be closed or filled by pushing metal into them with a jewelers peen hammer. Fabrications do not normally have this problem as they are made from rolled metals and flat stock.
Very often to remove the odd pit mark, scratch or blemish from a work piece, rather than cut down the whole piece, I often use a painters or carpenters sanding pad, of the smoothest I can find. These are normally coarse on one side and one edge and fine on the other side and edge. Readily available at most hardware stores, they fit the hand
quite nicely, and the budget too. They are suitable for using wet or dry and are easy to handle. They bend quite nicely for working radiuses, and leave a finish smooth enough to power buff for the finished article. Stay away from the coarse ones though. They will scar your work pieces badly.
LOADING THE BUFFS.
This in itself can be a risky business, and I have seen more than one polisher with a lump on his head due to presenting the compound to the buff in the incorrect manner. Make sure that the edge you apply the compound to is rotating away from you and do it gently. The best way to load your buff wheels is to dip the outer edge of the buff in warm water, while the compound is softening in hot, not boiling water. Rub the compound into the buff, and then set it out to dry. Many people paste an adhesive on the buff, then apply the compound to the paste. With this method the buff will last the longest and cut the most efficiently. Apply compound to it in the normal manner of applying the compound bar to the buff as soon as cutting ability slows down. You can tell when your buff leads loading. On a cut stroke there should be a thin trail of compound behind the buff. We remove this on the polishing stroke. Loading the buff should only take 2 or 3 seconds.
Only use 1 grade of compound to every buff. This prevents scratching and hazing. If you mix buffs and grits you will never achieve a truly scratch free surface.
A good idea is to relegate your buffs as they get older. Dirty finish buffs become final cut applicators. Last cut applicators go to penultimate cuts, and so on down the chain. When they become small use them in tight areas. Of course the smaller they become the stiffer they are, so the harder they cut, and of course the smaller the spaces that they can get into, and of course the faster speeds that you are able to cut at (see chart) with out the compound parting from the wheel.
Now for the act of buffing! To polish metals we end cut with the buff wheel, that is we only use the outer edge of the buff wheel. If we were to face buff the center and the outer areas of the wheel would be traveling at grossly different speeds, producing an uneven or hazy finish. The piece should be pushed or pulled along that edge, moving across less than the width of the wheel for the next cut. If the piece is fixed then we should move the buff in or against the direction of its rotation. Not across it!
To move the piece in the direction of the buffs rotation is called a coloring stroke, or a
Polishing stroke, to move against it is a cutting stroke.

You should not apply pressure to the buff wheel. Allow the abrasives to do the work. It will cause overheating. That will cause waxing of the compound and can lead to a hazy uneven finish and even warping of the product. Stainless steel can become corrupted and become prone to rusting. Also, a lighter cut is less likely to leave scratches. The thin stainless steel often used in automotive trim is particularly prone to warping and discolouring.
Now there is another problem when you are working with stainless. Keep every thing, I mean everything away from steel. As I mentioned earlier, if you touch a piece of steel with your buff and then go onto stainless, LOOK OUT! You might just turn it every colour of the rainbow, and it’s a devil to get out!
Make sure that the buff you are using is turning at its correct speed. There is nothing wrong in being too slow. It slows down the aggressiveness of the cut. It reduces overheating. It makes your tools more controllable. It throws less compound in your face. It takes longer to do the job, but you see what is happening better. Over speeding on the other hand is dangerous. Buff wheels can come apart. Compound flies every where. Cutting can be too aggressive and uneven. It increases the risks of overheating and warping. It is much harder to control your buffer, and it is very easy to over cut.
You think polishing this stuff off is tough. Ever tried to put it back on? You would do better trying to push toothpaste back into the tube. Only work small areas at a time getting them to a finished standard before you move on.
When you feel you have reached the desired finish it is time to go to work hand polishing. If your final cut was done with a chromium oxide then that is at least the grade of polish that you have to apply if not finer. Decide on whether or not you are going to wax, laquer, glaze or clearcoat and choose your type of polish. Make your final application of polish across your last cut to ensure that no scratches are visible.
Use Turkish cotton to hand polish for the best results. Buff up your finished piece with a perfectly clean terrycloth (Which must be prewashed and have all labels removed) or Turkish cotton. Make sure that there is absolutely no trace of polish left on the piece and then we add the “coup de gras.” We spray a superfine dusting of water over the item and rebuff. This helps to seal it from water stains that may be caused from rain, humidity or just overnight condensation.Then we buff out by hand with a microfibre cloth. This will remove any last traces of dirt and smooth your finish beautifully.
RAKING YOUR BUFF WHEELS.
This is done to remove dead compound and waste from the wheel. You can buy professional buff rakes, or you can improvise. I have two or three saw toothed bits of metal I do mine with, and I find them easier to hold than traditional rakes. Then I have a stainless steel rake for when I work on stainless. The rake should always approach the buff in an area that is rotating away from you, Normally the same area as you load up with compound in. Keep the rake angled so it is trailing as it connects with the buff, then turn it until it is at 90 degrees to the face you are raking and draw it across the face. The waste will build up on the rake and your buff is ready to be loaded for a nice clean cut. Be careful not to go beyond 90 degrees, It will fly, I assure you it will fly. At about eighty miles an hour. More than enough to inflict some intense pain and suffering, let alone spill the claret.
THE POWER QUESTION.
How much power do you need for your buffs? Well you can easily work buffs up to 3” inches wide with a half horsepower.
I like the old fashioned ½ horse motor with a belt and separate mandril.
It’s easy to vary speed with pulleys. Motors are easy to replace.
They are inexpensive and do a nice job.
Big power makes the parts vulnerable to over heating, easier to snag, easier to damage, and most of all, easier to hurt yourself.
Sure professional shops have big power.
They work on big pieces and need it.
But smaller power gives best overall finish.
Our big buff for ripping down has 5 horse, but we get our best finish with ½ and 1 horse machines.
3500rpm is great for all round work, while 1750 rpm is nice for finishing.

COPPER(Cu) Been around so long. Appears to have originated in cyprus, first called cyprium, them cuprium, and some how the English corrupted it to copper. I don’t see any resemblence in the sound, but it’s supposedly the same stuff. A basic element, or pure metal. Very soft by nature, and easy to shine. However, when it’s mixed with zinc, it gets harder, and we get brass. Mixed with tin we get bronze. I never could figure out how combining two soft metals makes a hard one. But, then scientifically speaking bees can’t fly, so I wont go any further on either subject. Copper is about in abundance in old pots, pans, ornamental bits and bobs. Pressurized tubing is often copper, so it makes a lot of appearances on steam locomotives and vehicles.
You will now be ready to powerbuff (see our page on powerbuffing technique if you need information about this process,) with a good compound like a coarse stainless or tripoli. Many people just go with the tripoli, but I prefer and recommend the stainless. Applied with a very stiff mill treated canvas type buff. This will remove all signs of the previous machine cuts quickly. Here’s a little time saver of a tip which makes clean up much easier. When you draw the buff wheel against the direction of its rotation you will see a trail of compound. This is a cutting stroke. A polishing stroke goes with the rotation of the wheel and leaves polish only on the leading edge once you stop. This is a polishing or colouring stroke. So we begin with a cutting stroke and finish with a polishing stroke, which removes 90% of the polish for us. If you are limited to a hand operation use our Metal Restorer and work it hard. You will get beautiful results if you have done your preparation properly, and your mirror will begin to show. Liquid polishes like ours tend to perform better than pastes because they encourage you to use the oxidization that you remove as an abrasive. This means not rolling or turning your applicator cloth as the residue appears, but rubbing it in more and making the residue work for you. Later it will ensure that you spread and work in the waxes and enhancers that will brighten the finish.
.
Tips
1,When hand polishing do small areas at a time.
2,Be meticulous about cleaning off before every stage.
3,Use only quality cotton to apply and buff up, and finishing cloths to finish.
4,Take the labels off any cloth you use, They scratch your work
5,Apply and remove polish in straight lines or around rim.
6,Clean your hands before each new stage.
7,Use barrier creams or gloves to protect your skin, goggles if you are powerbuffing to protect your eyes. A particulate face mask is good also when buffing.
8) Avoid skin contamination when powerbuffing. Cover up. Excess aluminum in the system causes brittleness of the bones, loss of teeth, Elzheimers disorder, and I don’t remember what else.
9) Every stage is a preparation stage, only the last wipe over is your finish.
10)Perfect preparation prevents poor polishing.

FINAL ADVICE:
PREVENT INJURY, You can never be over protective of eyes. The are easily damaged, wear goggles or a full face mask at all times when using power tools. Should you be unlucky enough to get something in your eye, DO NOT RUB. If it is abrasive or chemical that is bad enough. Should it be a burr you could develop serious problems. Check substance, if chemicals or abrasive particles, flush out with plenty of water. If it is metal and will not flush out or has obviously penetrated any part of the eye or surrounding tissue, protect from light and seek immediate medical attention.
SKIN CONTAMINATION can be avoided by using barrier creams, light or surgical gloves, and by just being careful. Should you use cotton gloves, remove them immediately any chemicals soak any part of the glove. Do not allow chemicals of any nature to stay in contact with the skin. Excessive exposure to any kind of chemicals is bound to result in a skin reaction. Respiratory problems can be caused by not only chemicals in the polishes, but also airborne metal particles. Inhalation of either is not particularly good for the body, Particulate Breathing masks should be worn at the very least when power buffing, and an extractor system in use to ensure rapid exchange of air. This should be fast enough to carry airborne particles out of the work area. All polishing should be done in well ventilated areas, never in the proximity of a naked flame if the chemicals are flammable. Which is the case in most polishes. If you are powercutting or buffing aluminum in a restricted area, watch out for the risk of dust explosion.
ALWAYS CHANGE BAGS IN DUST COLLECTORS WHEN YOU CHANGE METALS.
IF YOU USE A SHOP VAC. EMPTY IT EVERY TIME YOU VACUUM.
Airborne aluminum dust is VERY EXPLOSIVE! Rare as it maybe, it does happen.
Especially when allowed to mix with steel and iron particles.
Again, good extractors eliminate that problem.
ALL METALS IN LARGE AMOUNTS ARE DETRMENTAL TO HEALTH!
WASHING OFF.

 

[InDaShop]

I’ll say it again.
NEVER, EVER, wash off with solvents, mineral spirits or alcohol. They are all absorbed by the skin. They can all induce shock and can lead to a collapse of the internal organs when absorbed in large quantities. Use soap, use a pumice if necessary. Nothing else. If you have a laquer or clear coat on your skin it will wear off. A little mineral spirit or alcohol dabbed on the hands should do no serious harm, when it comes to removing splashes, but never wash off with them.
Oh, I almost forgot. Better remember to put out your cigarette (if you smoke) Before you tip alcohol or thinners all over yourself, and Don’t take a big old puff in a shop full of airborne particles. Having witnessed a dust explosion many years ago, I can tell you that the power was awesome. ( Several people were killed.) Aluminum is especially dangerous when in heavy airborne concentrations. It is unlikely you would survive.

OBTAINING POLISHING SUPPLIES.
Always deal with a professional polishing shop who uses what they sell.
Then you know what they are selling.
We would of course like you to buy off of us, and we can supply most of what you want, if not all of it.
We only sell what we use, so we know what it will do.
We do not sell sizal buffs, solid buffs over 4” diameter, ¼ sewn or ½ sewn buffs.
These are all items that have no use in general polishing.
We DO sell 4 inch spiral buffs, 6 and 8 inch pleated buffs and a full range of both greaseless abrasives which will allow you to grind with your buff wheel from 60 through to 1000 grit and then we have greased abrasives for finishing.
We have belts, beltgrinders, buffers and so on.
What we don’t have, we will tell you where to get it at the best price.
Buying from a general supplier and dealing with a salesman is buying blind.

CARS `N` TRAINS,TRUCKS`N`PLANES,
EVERY TIME I POLISH
IT BLASTED RAINS! ( Murpheys Law for Polishers)
It’s a fact, every time you polish the car, truck, bike, whatever, it rains.
Ignore the T.v. it doesn’t matter what the forecast is, you could be in the sahara, but it will rain. Don’t forget to seal the surface. Spray it lightly with water and rebuff it to the max. Then when it does rain it won’t eat up your polish job or leave nasty watermarks all over it.
If you are unfortunate enough to get your polish job all finished up and then have a rainfall in the overnight, next day or whatever, Don’t worry, just towel it off as soon as the rain stops. In the event that it dries up and you have a few watermarks, never fear. Spray a light mist of water over your finish dry and rebuff. OLE’! Good as new.


THE FLOUR!! I nearly forgot to mention the flour!
O.K., So you’ve got a tank that’s badly pitted, can’t sand it. Got a Brass Eagle with loads of lines for the polish to sit in and go black, or white lines where the coach lines of your car body meets and you can’t get those blasted white lines out.
Flour!
Apply more polish or wax, rubbing over the cursed area and making sure it gets into exactly where you don’t want it. Then while its moist daub it with flour. Blow the flour out with an air gun or brush it out with a soft bristle brush. (NO NYLON!)
Metal, paint, it’s all the same.
Clean!
No more ugly lines!
Check it out.
But remember you get to clean the flour up after too.

WHEN DO I STOP?
Well you stop when you are pleased with the finish you have got. You can become a total perfectionist if you like, and just keep on polishing it for the sake of polishing it. We’ve got polishes as fine as 1 micron if you want it.(that’s 40 millionths of an inch to those who want to look clever .) But there’s no real sense in getting anywhere near that fine on a polishing job unless it’s for show. Of course there are those amongst us who just do it any way. That’s what you call polishing for the sake of polishing. Then it gives you a little something extra. It takes you into another dimension. That’s when what you find peace and joy in the reflection!
Who said Zen was nothing to do with it?

Visit English Custom Polishing at the website www.englishcustompolishing.com

BACK PAGE
A detailed guide to all aspects of Metal Polishing and Metal Polishes. For use by: Metal Finishers, Museum Curators, Antique Restorers, Show and Custom Truck polishers, House wives, Hell’s Angels, Businessmen, Politicians, Glamour models, Shamen, Gurus, Nuclear Physicists, and to cut a long list short, aspiring, inspired, and devoted Zen Buddhists.
This booklet will take you from a raw fabrication or casting to a beautiful mirror finish.
From a tarnished and blackened piece of trash that nobody wants, to a gleaming, blazing antique that people admire and drool at the mouth for.
From a dull and oxidized, old road dog of a bike, car or truck, to a gleaming hunk of engineering perfection.
What ever you may want to polish, there is something here for every one.
Tips and tricks of the trade, polishes you can make at home, and some very important what not to do’s, that will save your antiques, and maybe even you.
A guiding light into the world of metal polishing.
A place where you might reflect on Nirvana, yourself, and polished aluminum, Brass or whatever.
And if it makes your life easier,
then so much the better.
Finally let me apologise for not being able to inform you as to the performance and uses of other brands of polishes.
Not only because it would be unethical to criticize other brands,
but we never have the need to use them,
and we want to sell you ours anyway.
You can see how well others have done using our advice and products by visiting the photogallery at www.englishcustompolishing.com

 

[InDaShop]

I know it looks like a long read but its WELL WORTH IT.

Print, and 3 ring it. I dont abide by all of his rules, but its very very close. I like my junk shiny.

 

[Marty]

Holy ****ing long post batman. Hope you copied and pasted : JK wyatt

Good info for sure.

 

[race_jeep]

Sticky this, I cant read through all of it right now

 

[wngrog]

I could not read past the first post, therefore, I could never be one with the polish.

 

[InDaShop]

Holy ****ing long post batman. Hope you copied and pasted : JK wyatt

Yeah copy paste, its long, and hard to read. I know, oh how I know. But if you print it, and read it with a ruler you'll be golden.
A metric **** TON of info in that info.

 

[blacksheep10]

I made it one sentence, but I'm quite drunk