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Think it'll work?

JOOP

I WON a COOKIE
Joined
Mar 27, 2006
Messages
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Location
Kitsap
Ok so I combined a stock YJ steering linkage to a waggy linkage.

why you ask? I know crusty will ask. Because I'm becoming to impatient to wait for the "correct" pieces and also because I have to stock waggy set-ups.

So why not!!:flipoff:

So to avoid getting a waggy pitman arm, which I'm not 100% will fix my situation. (BTW will a stock waggy Pitman arm bolt onto a YJ gear box?)

So to fix this.. I deicided, since my YJ linkage was practially new to cut the tie-rod end off with the sleeve. I then ground it down enough to fit into the waggy sleeve. Then welded it in place. Its in the sleeve about 1.5-2". Its still fully adjustable, just one sleeved end is YJ and the other waggy.

So the question is,,,, do you think it'll hold up? I know it'll work but I question it's strength. The stock YJ held upto my punishment, so as long as the welds hold I think I'm good. :redneck:

p1040974ob4.jpg

By jonsjeep, shot with DMC-FZ7 at 2008-02-26
 
So the question is,,,, do you think it'll hold up? I know it'll work but I question it's strength. The stock YJ held upto my punishment, so as long as the welds hold I think I'm good. :redneck:
That is roughly equivalent to welding in a tube adapter. The whole set up is pretty week anyway, but as long as you didn't weld it with a rewired easy bake oven, it should last awhile.
 
Depending on what TRE's you're using, you COULD just ream the stock YJ pitman arm like I did. I used chevy TRE's (ES2026R and ES2027L) for both my drag link and tie-rod, and I just reamed the stock YJ pitman arm using a 7* taper reamer chucked into a regular old drill. I clamped the pitman arm in the vice and went to town until the TRE fit just right. If you don't have the right reamer or don't want to buy it, I bet you could get any machine shop worth their metal shavings to do it for you for a low cost.

I think the waggy stuff is 7*, but don't quote me on that... besides you should be doing something other than the stock wagoneer inverted-T steering anyway, because it sucks unless your drag link is completely flat.
 
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