To body lift or not to bdy lift?

[Symon623]

To body lift or not to body lift?

That is the question in this topic.....that'll prolly raise more questions.

Option #1; 2-3" BL and a flat bottom belly at the frame rails?
or
Option #2; no BL and a 2-3" buggy-type flat belly below the rails?

The BL would add room between the frame and cab to get access to those hard to reach places and creat an easier yet wider flat belly.

No BL and the buggy type belly woud create a narrower belly at the low-point of the belly.

Rig is a '85 Toy P/U,no tunnel mods, and will be getting a 4.3-700r4-D300 package, but would like to hear pro's and cons from any rig.

 

[84Toyota4x4]

I like the body lift on my truck. Its a 3", and although very large, I just kinda like the look. If I were to do it again, Id go with a 2" probably. The shifters sit kinda low now, but other than that, Ive had no problems with it. Then again, when I did it, I took the time to extend EVERYTHING that could possibly be a problem. Custom bent a new slave cylinder line, extended some wires, tack welded some things in place, etc. The kit I used came with ALL the brackets I needed to extend everything, like the radiator drop brackets, LSPV bracket extender, E-Brake bracket extender, etc. It also came with the gap covers so inside the wheel wells are covered and not just a huge gap. Makes it look a lot nicer IMO.

~T.J.

 

[Mista_Shrpnl]

Running a 3" on my 01 Runner, and must admt, I love it. I went the cheap route Versus TJ, and used the Old school method of Hockey Pucks...Few thousand Miles, and not a single problem with the lift yet.

I recommend ya do it!

 

[bite me]

I've got a 3" body lift on mine but i only did it to get a flat underbelly. i did a 3" drivetrain lift on mine and built a flat skid plate under the tcases. gotta say i really like it, the old xmember was always getting hung up .

 

[Symon623]

I've got a 3" body lift on mine but i only did it to get a flat underbelly. i did a 3" drivetrain lift on mine and built a flat skid plate under the tcases. gotta say i really like it, the old xmember was always getting hung up .

Thanks for the responses guys......bite me, this is the reason for the question, I want a smooth bottom and with my running gear, it'll all be custom. So not sure of my approach.

 

[zig80toy]

I vote for going with the body lift and doing the flat belly right at the frame rails. However I did this exact same thing and had to modify the hell out of the floor pan tunnel. I went with a 2" body lift though.
700R4 is much wider than the stock toyota tranny right? If so, sounds like your going to be damn near making a whole new floor pan to get the cab to clear over your drivetrain?? What were you thinking?... Maybe going with a crossmember below the frame rails would be the way to go...?

 

[Symon623]

I vote for going with the body lift and doing the flat belly right at the frame rails. However I did this exact same thing and had to modify the hell out of the floor pan tunnel. I went with a 2" body lift though.
700R4 is much wider than the stock toyota tranny right? If so, sounds like your going to be damn near making a whole new floor pan to get the cab to clear over your drivetrain?? What were you thinking?... Maybe going with a crossmember below the frame rails would be the way to go...?

Yea...the 700 is wider but currently I have a TH350 in the Willys, which is built around a Toy frame and floorpan, have what equates to a 1½" BL and the trans/T-C hang down below the frame about a ½". I want to mount the engine hi and the trans lo. Will be modifying to work oround the D300 twin sticks??

 

[bite me]

don't know if your planning to run the orignal fuel tank or a fuel cell but with the body lift you can raise the tank too. you plan on running the motor and tranny i gave your brother?

 

[KarlVP]

I love my body lift on my TJ. I had some T-case shifter issues, but they have been worked out. With the BL, I can get tools into places others can't and now with the roll cage tied into the frame and body, I don't think the body's going anywhere.

 

[Digger 5]

Sy-
Make sure you move the motor left as far as possible. The 700R has pan interference problems when you use a 300 T-case.

 

[Symon623]

don't know if your planning to run the orignal fuel tank or a fuel cell but with the body lift you can raise the tank too. you plan on running the motor and tranny i gave your brother?

Either running a different tank or the stock tank mounted transversly behind the rear axle. But that is a good point....

No...I picked up a '02 4.3 locally, that has the computer mod'd to not control trans, and had the OBD II system fooled to run without cats, plus a few other goodies programmed in to bup the HP, it was in a 90 4runner and running, I got the radiator, throttle cable and P/S hoses among other parts. Also got a new 700 from a friend locally as well.

 

[Bunk1]

I like chopping sheetmetal up...so i'll be the only one to say skip the BL and chop the heck out of the tunnel.

 

[Symon623]

Sy-
Make sure you move the motor left as far as possible. The 700R has pan interference problems when you use a 300 T-case.

Very good point...especially when I have clocked the 300 up for more clearence......2 piece front drive line will be in order for sure. Am running one now to clear the TH350. I actually like the 2 pice front D-shaft...more clearence.

 

[Symon623]

I like chopping sheetmetal up...so i'll be the only one to say skip the BL and chop the heck out of the tunnel.

Thought of that too.....and prolly will a little to configure my twin sticks the way I want them?? problem is the only real place it'll be necessary is at the bell housing area and the t/c area. right where there is contours. I don't have sheet metal fabing equipment...yet? :redneck:

 

[no excuses]

I built a 2" body lift into my cab mounts and just stuffed theT350-231C/D300 up in there and it barely lets me have a flat belly (still working on mounts) I am probably still going to have to use a sawzall and a BFH to get a lil more clearence, especially for the twin sticks. I am also still thinking about moving the motor to the left some (1" or soo) to get more driveline clearence.