toy case with a dana 300 behind it

[toyotalandman]

I have toyota with dual cases with 4.7 in the rear case. But i have been wheeling with some guy with dig. So i want to know the details for toyota mated to a dana 300. Stuff like how the drivelines hook up and stuff like that. I just planned to use the advanced adapters kit. Any help would be appreciate.

 

[nick c]

moved to general tech.

 

[white-rhyno]

They do make rear disco's for toy cases. Just throwin that out there.

 

[toyotalandman]

thanks for the move i looked at that i just don't trust it. i want something stronger

 

[dove'd85]

there are alot of companies that make dana 300 adapter flanges for toyota driveshafts

 

[ChrisStewart]

driveshafts will work if you run a flange on the outputs. Poly performance sells them, someone else probably does too. If it were me I would move your 4.7's to the front case and then keep the stock 2.62's in the 300. Here is the poly performance link

http://www.polyperformance.com/shop/Toyota-Drive-Line-To-Dana-44-60-300-Flange-p-18775.html

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

Putting the 4.7's in front of the 300 is a great way to start destroying it... Always keep the deeper reduction as far downstream as you can and it'll save the trans and case(s).


I got CroMo double drilled yota flanges from partsmike.com for under $150 shipped for the pair.

Ya might look at getting the adapter from OTT via inchworm.com, I want to say it is more clockable and from billet too.

 

[crazybluerider1]

thanks for the move i looked at that i just don't trust it. i want something stronger

I have been beating the **** out of my trail tough output disco for a couple years now. Shift on the fly and all that fun stuff. That said if you have a line on a cheap 300 the price might be about the same.

I'm with WT on the 4.7 in front of the 300. Not a real good idea if you don't like broken inputs.

 

[stealthrunner1]

I have been beating the **** out of my trail tough output disco for a couple years now. Shift on the fly and all that fun stuff. That said if you have a line on a cheap 300 the price might be about the same.

I'm with WT on the 4.7 in front of the 300. Not a real good idea if you don't like broken inputs.

Didn't sarg have this setup in his X-Chassis for a long time????:eeek:

 

[toyotalandman]

how hard is it to make the tcase mounts

 

[crash2]

Putting the 4.7's in front of the 300 is a great way to start destroying it... Always keep the deeper reduction as far downstream as you can and it'll save the trans and case(s).


I got CroMo double drilled yota flanges from partsmike.com for under $150 shipped for the pair.

Ya might look at getting the adapter from OTT via inchworm.com, I want to say it is more clockable and from billet too.

I call BS. Mine has been setup this way for a number of years. Trip to the con and 2 to the hammers and ran most the stuff in this state.

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

I call BS. Mine has been setup this way for a number of years. Trip to the con and 2 to the hammers and ran most the stuff in this state.

You can call bs all you like. Your experience and driving style do not change basic torque multiplication and input strength not being up to the task of being beat on.

But I'll ask this; have you broken an output either front or rear of your 300? Or busted the case itself? If not then you aren't beating it hard enough to worry about. There are lots of examples of breakage of all types on the 300, hell Graeme busted 2 cases on the 6 shoota..

 

[crash2]

You can call bs all you like. Your experience and driving style do not change basic torque multiplication and input strength not being up to the task of being beat on.

But I'll ask this; have you broken an output either front or rear of your 300? Or busted the case itself? If not then you aren't beating it hard enough to worry about. There are lots of examples of breakage of all types on the 300, hell Graeme busted 2 cases on the 6 shoota..

I know guys who drive the same areas and one wil break stuff and one won't--both driving aggressively.

I wheel to wheel all day--not drive like a clown and break my junk up :awesomework:

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

I know guys who drive the same areas and one wil break stuff and one won't--both driving aggressively.

I wheel to wheel all day--not drive like a clown and break my junk up :awesomework:

I build my junk to get the **** kicked out of it and still wheel all day. Hell it's getting put back on the street so I can drive it there beat the hell out of it and drive it back home. We'll see how that cunning plan works out. :haha:

 

[sarg]

here is what I had, a toy case with 4to1 to a d300 that was completely stock other than high angle driveline toy to d300 driveline flanges. I ran this setup for 4 years in a buggy and never broke, and the last year and a half of this setup was with 40inch maxxis stickys a front dana 60 and water filled half way up the rims in the front tires. In my opinion this is the best setup of all the combos you can think of for toy stuff here is why.Having the 4to1 in the first case allows you to run the d300 in low all the time on the trail and if you need to be lower grab the toy case lever and bam your in low low and creeping or creep up something and bam shift the toy case into high and rip up the obsticle, also this allows you to use front and rear dig in low and low low . My buddy had the same setup but the 4to1's in the d300 and he had to stop and fight the levers to shift in and out of low and high when my toy case will shift anytime even as Im giving it gas also its easier to do this with one lever than two. Hands down the **** I would do it in a heart beat again if I was going run toy stuff......................................wow thats the most I have ever wrote in a post..

 

[crash2]

here is what I had, a toy case with 4to1 to a d300 that was completely stock other than high angle driveline toy to d300 driveline flanges. I ran this setup for 4 years in a buggy and never broke, and the last year and a half of this setup was with 40inch maxxis stickys a front dana 60 and water filled half way up the rims in the front tires. In my opinion this is the best setup of all the combos you can think of for toy stuff here is why.Having the 4to1 in the first case allows you to run the d300 in low all the time on the trail and if you need to be lower grab the toy case lever and bam your in low low and creeping or creep up something and bam shift the toy case into high and rip up the obsticle, also this allows you to use front and rear dig in low and low low . My buddy had the same setup but the 4to1's in the d300 and he had to stop and fight the levers to shift in and out of low and high when my toy case will shift anytime even as Im giving it gas also its easier to do this with one lever than two. Hands down the **** I would do it in a heart beat again if I was going run toy stuff......................................wow thats the most I have ever wrote in a post..

:awesomework::awesomework:

 

[WHITE TRASH1]

In my opinion this is the best setup of all the combos you can think of for toy stuff here is why.Having the 4to1 in the first case allows you to run the d300 in low all the time on the trail and if you need to be lower grab the toy case lever and bam your in low low and creeping or creep up something and bam shift the toy case into high and rip up the obsticle, also this allows you to use front and rear dig in low and low low .

I absolutely agree with that. Ive driven porters buggy and the 300 just shifts like ****. Not anyone's fault but the engineers that designed it as far as I can see.

I have a 231 crawl box in front of my 300 so I'll be running the 300 in low always and shift the 231 on the fly. If you run the toybox in low and the 300 in high that's where you'd have issues but that won't be an issue if you know that from the beginning.