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Toyota axles

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Outback

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I don't know zip bout no Toyota stuff....

I need to know why these guys:
http://www.trailtough.com/

Chose to use these axles:
79-85 Toyota pick up front axle and 86-95 Toyota pick up rear axle

in this application:
"Trail Slayer" Sidekick/Tracker Straight Axle Coil Spring Conversion Kit

IF there was a reason...
And what is the lowest ratio available for the above axles?
What is the WMS to WMS on these things?
Recomended mods for light duty wheeler application with lotz of street miles?

Chris
 
The main reason being 79-85 were the years solid axle minitrucks and 4runners were mainly to be found. 85 Was the last year solid axles were made in trucks and 4runners. In 84-85 I believe the straight axle has better bracin and is less prone to bending. 86-95 year rear axles are wider to match the ifs width up front. The kit probably has spacers for the front or possibly using ifs hubs up front. wms on the front axles is 55.5 on the wider rear axle it is 58 compared to the narrower 55 on 79-85 trucks. Lowest gear ratio is 5.71 or if you mean lowest numerically i think its 4.10 but I have heard of some ratios in the high 3's like 3.8 something I think id have to look. If your a light wheeler stock should be fine. Most people were im at run 38s with little to no problems. Gear it according to tire size. If you want to step up in abilites get some longfields and his hub gears. Yukon gears are pretty much the best for toy axles. Get quality rebuild kits from either factory or marlin cralwer.

edit here is probably one of the best sources for anything you want to know about toyotas
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=459180
 
Last edited:
Snowrunner said:
The main reason being 79-85 were the years solid axle minitrucks and 4runners were mainly to be found. 85 Was the last year solid axles were made in trucks and 4runners. In 84-85 I believe the straight axle has better bracin and is less prone to bending. 86-95 year rear axles are wider to match the ifs width up front. The kit probably has spacers for the front or possibly using ifs hubs up front. wms on the front axles is 55.5 on the wider rear axle it is 58 compared to the narrower 55 on 79-85 trucks. Lowest gear ratio is 5.71 or if you mean lowest numerically i think its 4.10 but I have heard of some ratios in the high 3's like 3.8 something I think id have to look. If your a light wheeler stock should be fine. Most people were im at run 38s with little to no problems. Gear it according to tire size. If you want to step up in abilites get some longfields and his hub gears. Yukon gears are pretty much the best for toy axles. Get quality rebuild kits from either factory or marlin cralwer.

edit here is probably one of the best sources for anything you want to know about toyotas
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/showthread.php?t=459180
Click to expand...

Thank You!:beer: :beer:
Even I can learn!

What would be a fair price for a set of 79 to 85 axles in bone stock (functional) condition?

C
 
Stock fronts go from $300 to $500 depending on market, and as mentioned, the 84-85 fronts have different bracing, so some of the cost variance will be there. The wider (86+) rears are about $100 to $200 in stock condition.

~T.J.
 
84Toyota4x4 said:
Stock fronts go from $300 to $500 depending on market, and as mentioned, the 84-85 fronts have different bracing, so some of the cost variance will be there.
Click to expand...

An '84-5 is worth $250, earlier a little less. They are all weak at the balls, the center bracing can be easily added. Just because someone is asking more than this doesn't mean you can't talk them down or find cheaper elsewhere. I still see them going for less than that, just gotta know where to look.
 
Yep you can pick up a front for 250 easy add the knuckle ball gussets and truss if it doesnt have one possibly the diff guard to and your good to go. Other more extreme upgrades include drilling your hubs for bigger studs and more pins. Using ifs hubs and landcruiser rotors to upgrade your brakes and gain width. Trailgear makes 6 stud knuckles instead of the regular 4 studs, the list goes on and on. Although the solid axles come with 4 cyl thirds you can upgrade to v6 thirds for more strength or a high pinion in the front.
 
Chris if want more info on the why call Brent up and ask him.
He is more than willing to give you the run down on why.
It is best if try to avoid calling Monday as they can get very busy.
 
GRW said:
Chris if want more info on the why call Brent up and ask him.
He is more than willing to give you the run down on why.
It is best if try to avoid calling Monday as they can get very busy.
Click to expand...

I have an Email in to them but haven't heard anything back but no worries and no hurry. I have some business in the area so I'll prolly just stop by...

Trail Tough hasn't done the GV at least that anyone knows of so I'm planning on just fabbing it up myself. No big thing. I just had a hole in my knowledge about Toyota axles and figured the fastest way to get some edumication was to just own up and ask a simple, basic question.

This is my wifes "car". Something about running a few "Jeep" trails locally that people have said we could not make in "that Car!"...
We were out in the hills yesterday after a day hike and she said she wanted more ground clearance. I explained the several options, pluses and minus cost and it looks like the SAS on links w/ C/O's, disks all round and some other stuff.

Chris
 
Outback said:
I can do that once she funds her project:haha: :awesomework:
Click to expand...

another option would be to do a spring spacer lift or an OME springs lift. can probably get up to 31's that way and still have a nice street driver.

Not that a SAS GV isn't a very kewl way to go, but spacers or springs are much cheaper (and perhaps better if it's going to also see some street/hiway driving).

P.S. I think the later toy rear is to get the centered diff ...
 
SnoFalls said:
another option would be to do a spring spacer lift or an OME springs lift. can probably get up to 31's that way and still have a nice street driver.

Not that a SAS GV isn't a very kewl way to go, but spacers or springs are much cheaper (and perhaps better if it's going to also see some street/hiway driving).

P.S. I think the later toy rear is to get the centered diff ...
Click to expand...

Yup I've researched all of the options.
It has 28" tires on the stock wheels and it could use re-gearing with that tire. It is not bad but not low enough.
To do the OME and then add a body lift to run a 31" tire is going to cost more then that as it will take a Trac/Kik diff complete in the front and third in the rear to get the gears as the only gears available are Factory. And you will be at the mechanical limit on the Ft. shafts and hubs... Figure about $1200+ all said and done.
Now I know that the SAS will be more bucks but even a factory stock Toy axle is 100% stronger then any bolt in GV front shaft. And then I can get to a 10.50-33 which would be a sweet tire on this rig.
I suppose that the ride may be less... well something. However, in reality this thing doesn't ride all that nice to begin with... Plus I'll stretch the WB a little bit and push the track out a tic...which will help.

Thankz for the tip on the rear centered... I'll bet your right.:awesomework:
I've got an 8.8 Ford that I could easily narrow and it has the factory disks... and the tone ring for the ABS... Hmmmmm

Chris
 

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