Toyota Hub Studs...

[84Toyota4x4]

NOT the threaded studs. On the hub body, there are two little alignment type pins/studs that are I assume pressed into the hub body. One of my hubs is missing both these studs.

I presume they play a large role in strength since without them, its only the shear strength of the threaded studs that hold the hub in place. So, where can I find them so that I can replace the two I'm missing? Dealer only maybe?

Also, I figure theyre pressed in, but the hub body I have looks like someone tried to drill them out or something. Maybe they were sheared off and look crappy? I dont know. Either way, Im figuring in order to install new ones, I need those chunks out and or holes cleaned up so the new ones will press in. Any tips for getting the little pieces out?

I plan to do this when I get back from training at the end of the month when I open up the hubs to do some other work at the same time, so hopefully someone knows before then, haha.

~T.J.

 

[Pook]

you could redrill and move them to a new spot if you have to just rotate the hub one set of bolts.

I'd try and remove them first though they are a a press fit on the wheel hub. I'd try an easy out first, just be careful drilling pretty sure they are hardened pins. if you can get them spinning you should be able to get them out.

To prevent that from happening again the Frontrange ARP hub studs are a good way to go.

 

[84Toyota4x4]

Well, I didn't shear them off. I just noticed that they were missing after I rebuilt my front axle. I hadn't noticed they were missing before since I was only taking the side apart because of broken birfs (I need 30 spline longs, haha). I took both sides apart to rebuild it and went "wait a second..." But, APR studs are in the long term plans.

This is just phase one of the axle rebuild. Phase two will be longs, and Marlins new seals. Phase three will be more crap. I just try and keep it fully functional along the way. Since I cant afford to do it all at once, I do it in phases. That way I can drive and enjoy it instead of having it torn down all the time while I save money. I do more work this way (put it together and take it apart), but I think it works out in the end since I like being able to just hop in it and take it out.

~T.J.

 

[skrause]

I presume they play a large role in strength since without them, its only the shear strength of the threaded studs that hold the hub in place.

Nope, they just locate the hub. The strength comes from the clamping force created by the 6 studs, friction between the wheel hub and the lockout hub body is what transfers the torque by design. This is why the Aisin hubs are so much stronger than Warn's design, the cone washers increase the pressure between the two surfaces if the initial friction is overcome. But, if they're not kept tight there will be some play and the first thing to go is one of those pins, then the studs will start to break or stretch out the holes in the body.

 

[skrause]

Well, I didn't shear them off. I just noticed that they were missing after I rebuilt my front axle. I hadn't noticed they were missing before since I was only taking the side apart because of broken birfs (I need 30 spline longs, haha). I took both sides apart to rebuild it and went "wait a second..." But, APR studs are in the long term plans.

This is just phase one of the axle rebuild. Phase two will be longs, and Marlins new seals. Phase three will be more crap. I just try and keep it fully functional along the way. Since I cant afford to do it all at once, I do it in phases. That way I can drive and enjoy it instead of having it torn down all the time while I save money. I do more work this way (put it together and take it apart), but I think it works out in the end since I like being able to just hop in it and take it out.

~T.J.

So they're not broken, just gone? Either someone pulled them for some retarded reason, or they got loosened up and fell out when someone had it apart. If you want to beef it up talk to Airride on pirate, he was doing a 6 pin and larger stud upgrade last I checked. New pins or relocating the old ones is not something you can do on your own without the proper tooling and machining knowledge. A drill press just isn't going to cut it.


FWIW, I'm running longs up front and a full floater kit out back so I have 4 hubs that are abused pretty well. No upgrades to the studs, just proper maintenance. I've only popped one pin and a couple of the studs on one hub, and that was because the axle seal on the rear failed and gear lube soaked through the hub body gasket destroying the bond.

 

[Mark m.]

I added two more pins too mine so each one now has four.

 

[crash2]

Nope, they just locate the hub. The strength comes from the clamping force created by the 6 studs, friction between the wheel hub and the lockout hub body is what transfers the torque by design. This is why the Aisin hubs are so much stronger than Warn's design, the cone washers increase the pressure between the two surfaces if the initial friction is overcome. But, if they're not kept tight there will be some play and the first thing to go is one of those pins, then the studs will start to break or stretch out the holes in the body.

The pins are WAY harder material than the studs--they do help align the inner hub but they also help with strength.. One reason I love my interal hubs :awesomework:

 

[skrause]

The pins are WAY harder material than the studs--they do help align the inner hub but they also help with strength.. One reason I love my interal hubs :awesomework:

Yes, they are, but that hub body is made of playdough. Keeping those nuts tight is the proper solution IMHO. :flipoff:

 

[84Toyota4x4]

So they're not broken, just gone?

Well, its hard to tell. If they are sheared off, its below the surface of the hub. Its very uneven and jagged in the hole where they should be, and I presume that if they were simply pulled out, it would be a clean hole.

All I know, is that one side has them, one doesn't. I want to get both sides to have them just for my own peace of mind. So, I need to find replacements somewhere some way some how.

If you want to beef it up talk to Airride on pirate, he was doing a 6 pin and larger stud upgrade last I checked. New pins or relocating the old ones is not something you can do on your own without the proper tooling and machining knowledge. A drill press just isn't going to cut it.

I work at a machine shop so if I wanted to upgrade them, Im sure I could find a way. Although, I'm not too interested in upgrading them like crazy, this truck is only a mild wheeler so I'm taking everything one step at a time. I want it working stock to see what I need before I go and do massive upgrades that may or may not be necessary with my wheeling style/capabilities.

Currently, my parts breakage is very minor. Ive gone through two stock birfields, and two stock steering arms (and I no longer have stock steering). Thats it. I don't wheel the truck too hard, so like I said, I just want to get it complete and working stock first.

~T.J.

 

[84Toyota4x4]

I added two more pins too mine so each one now has four.

And where did you get the pins? I dont wanna have to have them made on the lathe at work, haha.

~T.J.

 

[skrause]

Well, its hard to tell. If they are sheared off, its below the surface of the hub. Its very uneven and jagged in the hole where they should be, and I presume that if they were simply pulled out, it would be a clean hole.

Sheared.

 

[Mark m.]

Yes, they are, but that hub body is made of playdough. Keeping those nuts tight is the proper solution IMHO. :flipoff:

When you say the hub body is made of playdough your wrong thats not what breaks its the gears inside that are made of playdough.
Warn hubs now those are made of playdough.

 

[crash2]

When you say the hub body is made of playdough your wrong thats not what breaks its the gears inside that are made of playdough.
Warn hubs now those are made of playdough.

I was thinking warns were made of popsickle sticks..:haha: