Toyota tube size for drivelines

[Boonie Buster]

what size tube is used on the trail-gear or martin crawler long slip pieces? They say to cut your tube off and replace with either .095 or .120 wall tube, but what dia... I am assuming this means some machining is to be done...:eeek: What have you peoples done? I have 36" flg. to flg. in the front to do and 54" flg. to flg. in the rear. I am thinking i can get a long bed toyota driveline for the rear and get me close with a CV up top and single joint at the bottom... and modify something for the front with a long slip and single u-joint at each end.
I am having a hard time justifying spending $1000 on just drivelines...

 

[84Toyota4x4]

I built mine for free minus the long slip kit, and they work fine. Hardly any vibrations. I wouldnt spend $1000 on it. Ever, lol.

I just beat the ends into the tube, then bolted the drive line up to both flanges on the truck with two bolts. Hung a plumb bob from the frame and spun the drive line. I just tapped on it in various spots where the tube and end met until it was straight then tack welded it. Pulled it out and fully welded and painted it. Works fine :awesomework:

Sorry, I dont know what the tube size it. I have a few ends with no tube laying around from when I built mine somewhere. I could try and measure something if I can find them and if I remember, haha.

~T.J.

 

[Poohbair]

I put dual cases in my Runner, took the rear driveline and cut it off in a chop saw, put 1/3 quart of ATF in it, weleded the yoke back on... and it is dy-no-mite.

The front is square... $25.00 at the local steel shop.. what more do you need?

 

[Boonie Buster]

I put dual cases in my Runner, took the rear driveline and cut it off in a chop saw, put 1/3 quart of ATF in it, weleded the yoke back on... and it is dy-no-mite.

The front is square... $25.00 at the local steel shop.. what more do you need?

ATF? is this like the BB's in the tires theory??? Explain please:hi:

 

[rockabilly]

from pirate

A toyota driveshaft end has a machined OD of 2.435".
2.5'' Sch. 40 pipe. is 2.875" OD x .203" thick which is almost 1/4'' wall and is a good fit for the toy yokes. You just have to use an endgrinder or the like to knock the seam down in the pipe. Using the pipe to retube is good for rear shafts or if you have links and don't need all the slip of a square shaft. (also slides on rocks better than square) This is a cheaper alternative to the strange sized 2 7/8" x 7/32" wall DOM tubing which can also be used for a DIY driveline.

 

[Poohbair]

ATF? is this like the BB's in the tires theory??? Explain please:hi:

Yes, same theory. Works as a fluid balancer. In a driveline, you want something thick enough to "coat" the inside of the driveline, but not so thick that in the winter it is too thick to move. ATF works perfect.

 

[Boonie Buster]

from pirate

A toyota driveshaft end has a machined OD of 2.435".
2.5'' Sch. 40 pipe. is 2.875" OD x .203" thick which is almost 1/4'' wall and is a good fit for the toy yokes. You just have to use an endgrinder or the like to knock the seam down in the pipe. Using the pipe to retube is good for rear shafts or if you have links and don't need all the slip of a square shaft. (also slides on rocks better than square) This is a cheaper alternative to the strange sized 2 7/8" x 7/32" wall DOM tubing which can also be used for a DIY driveline.

Ok, cool.

So now the problem I have with the rear is that it's 56" long, the guy at tom woods said i was pushing the limit for ON-road usage by doing a 2.5" shaft with a .120 wall.... that it would have the jump rope effect on the d-line. So i imagine a .25 wall will be worse from what he said... I am running 36's with 5.13 gears, MAYBE will run 39.5s over the winter if they dont sell.... but that's still a LOT of spinnage on the d-line at 60-70mph... So that's why I am a little hesitant with a really thick shaft in the rear (no pun intended:redneck: :haha: ) The guy at tom woods suggested AT LEAST going with a 3" dia. and .093 wall or whatever. But that doesnt fit the toyota flange tube and i think is a little thin.

I mainly am going to be using the truck to drive to the trails which are 20 miles away at most and then to naches and further for camping biking hiking and wheeling. and then using it for hauling junk around, so it will see street use, but not like DD amount of use...

 

[Boonie Buster]

so now i am a little sketched out.... I am hearing that 84toyota4x4's driveline he made is wobbling after some use....:eeek: maybe... And, after being told that using a 2.5" .120 wall tube over a span of 56" flg. to flg. is too much length for the tube, by the guys at Tom Woods. So what tube should I use? I mean, its NOT like it's 56" of pure tube. I'm nost sure how to calculate, my driveline speed either, (well i didnt give it much thought last night:redneck: )

I have 36" tires, with 5.13s.

How do I find out my driveline RPM at say 60-70mph ???

And what the critical speed before it "jump roping" is?

 

[CHOP SHOP]

so now i am a little sketched out.... I am hearing that 84toyota4x4's driveline he made is wobbling after some use....:eeek: maybe... And, after being told that using a 2.5" .120 wall tube over a span of 56" flg. to flg. is too much length for the tube, by the guys at Tom Woods. So what tube should I use? I mean, its NOT like it's 56" of pure tube. I'm nost sure how to calculate, my driveline speed either, (well i didnt give it much thought last night:redneck: )

I have 36" tires, with 5.13s.

How do I find out my driveline RPM at say 60-70mph ???

And what the critical speed before it "jump roping" is?

dude you think way too much.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

wait till you jumprope a 300 dollar tom woods into a stump or rock.

ITS A FAWKIN SHAFT ON A WHEELER!!!!!!! maybe next year youll figure it out.

A couple years ago odie and I were at the hammers and wasted his rear dshaft on sledge. we limped it out. we went to town in the morning, stoped at the cyclone fence supply, got a peice of what they called "structual corner tube". it cost us 20bucks for enough to make two shafts. we took it to the local desert muffler shop (outdoor lifts!) and had it welded up for another 20bucks. made it 5 days at the hammers. still in the truck.

it has never "JUMPROPED!"


hey boonie, have you ever had your trucks frontend aligned?:corn:

 

[Boonie Buster]

dude you think way too much.

Sorry, i guess when someone that builds drivelines all day says, "ya, you might be on the fringe of grenading your driveline at 60mph because of..."

I listen...

Am I really overthinking this? I mean, I used to not be that worried about it and now i am... Because I will be driving it on the road, I had thought of just the scd. 40 pipe and be done... I think it'd be fine... I just want some affirmation and some actual field tested rigs at said speeds with no failures...:eeek:

 

[Boonie Buster]

wait till you jumprope a 300 dollar tom woods into a stump or rock.

ITS A FAWKIN SHAFT ON A WHEELER!!!!!!! maybe next year youll figure it out.

A couple years ago odie and I were at the hammers and wasted his rear dshaft on sledge. we limped it out. we went to town in the morning, stoped at the cyclone fence supply, got a peice of what they called "structual corner tube". it cost us 20bucks for enough to make two shafts. we took it to the local desert muffler shop (outdoor lifts!) and had it welded up for another 20bucks. made it 5 days at the hammers. still in the truck.

it has never "JUMPROPED!"


hey boonie, have you ever had your trucks frontend aligned?:corn:

Did you drive the truck on the highway back home at 65mph?

I have never had my front end aligned, I prolly will when i get it done this round... But i usually get it very close and never have an issue at even 70-80mph:awesomework:

I plan on and will always, use this truck for things OTHER than wheeling *GASP* So its not going to be put together with fence posting and barb wire :haha: Maybe to get me off the trail, sure, but actual day to day use...No...

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Sorry, i guess when someone that builds drivelines all day says, "ya, you might be on the fringe of grenading your driveline at 60mph because of..."
:

sound like every other d shaft guy. talking you into spending more money on something you might smash or pitch out. you need these expensive 3 inch yokes (CUSTOM FOR TOYOTA). then hell probally want to sell you some yokes that use spicer series joints.uke: sound like a sales pitch.:beer:

 

[CHOP SHOP]

Did you drive the truck on the highway back home at 65mph?

I have never had my front end aligned, I prolly will when i get it done this round... But i usually get it very close and never have an issue at even 70-80mph:awesomework:

I plan on and will always, use this truck for things OTHER than wheeling *GASP* So its not going to be put together with fence posting and barb wire :haha: Maybe to get me off the trail, sure, but actual day to day use...No...

I wasnt suggesting the fence post ****, just using as an example to point out this **** aint BRAIN SURGERY! and yes it has been driven at 60mph, just fine.

 

[CHOP SHOP]

I have never had my front end aligned, I prolly will when i get it done this round... But i usually get it very close and never have an issue at even 70-80mph:awesomework:

so you took a chance at a home made SAS on a truck not done by alot of folks (S10). you never had it aligned to see if it was correct? you have drove it at 60 to 70, right?

just funny you have spent monthes worrying about a pair of d shafts, but dont care if the front end is in the truck str8?:beer:

 

[Boonie Buster]

so you took a chance at a home made SAS on a truck not done by alot of folks (S10). you never had it aligned to see if it was correct? you have drove it at 60 to 70, right?

just funny you have spent monthes worrying about a pair of d shafts, but dont care if the front end is in the truck str8?:beer:

hold on a sec, the truck was aligned and i spent a lot of time since it was my first SAS to get it algined front to back etc. And no, I never had it aligned to see if it was correct.:redneck: And I drive it at 60-70mph. And part of the reason it's taken so long is because of other circumstances out of my hands.... and other distractions...:eeek:

 

[Boxxerace]

. and other distractions...:eeek:

Like those gays on mountain bikes :rb: :haha:

Good thread though, this is what the forum's are for.

 

[pokey]

so now i am a little sketched out.... I am hearing that 84toyota4x4's driveline he made is wobbling after some use....:eeek: maybe... And, after being told that using a 2.5" .120 wall tube over a span of 56" flg. to flg. is too much length for the tube, by the guys at Tom Woods. So what tube should I use? I mean, its NOT like it's 56" of pure tube. I'm nost sure how to calculate, my driveline speed either, (well i didnt give it much thought last night:redneck: )

I have 36" tires, with 5.13s.

How do I find out my driveline RPM at say 60-70mph ???

And what the critical speed before it "jump roping" is?

Your driveline speed in high gear (1 to 1 ) will be the same as your engines rpms.

 

[Boonie Buster]

Your driveline speed in high gear (1 to 1 ) will be the same as your engines rpms.

ok, that simplifies things then... I have a 700r4 though... High gear is .70 but i think if i remember from last night you'd just multiply you RPM at highway speed by 1.30 and voila, you have your driveline speed???:eeek:

EDIT: before, I had 4.56s and at 60mph my engine rpms was around 1700-1800. now i have 5.13s and i think i calculated it to be about 2500.... i'm putting it on the high side of things i hope...

EDIT EDIT: 700r4 3rd gear = 1.00

 

[84Toyota4x4]

Wow...

Like I said, I think I bent my slip yoke, not the tube. I need to pull it off to look, but Im too lazy. Its not like it vibrates horribly and rattles your teeth out. Its more like badly unbalanced tires, and its just around 40-45 MPH I just drive faster or slower and have no problems, haha. Ill fix it when it breaks, haha.

~T.J.