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Trans rebuild kits

Beerj

Beerj

Sonzabitches!
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I'm trying to figure out why there is such a price difference between rebuild kits. Summit wants $173
TCI Master Racing Overhaul Kits 259000 - Free Shipping on Orders Over $99 at Summit Racing
https://m.summitracing.com/parts/tci-259000?seid=srese1&cm_mmc=pla-google-_-shopping-_-srese1-_-tci-auto&gclid=COf34-Dhqs8CFQpahgodREcAnA

Whereas Jakes Performance is more like $475.
TH400 Stage 2 Rebuild Kit
http://shop.jakesperformance.com/TH400-Stage-2-Rebuild-Kit-JP-S2400RBK.htm

So what's the deal? Gonna be ordering a 350 and a 400 kit.
 
I've had great luck using my local Transtar store. Good prices and have bushings, thrust washers, shims, pump gear valve body kits ect.
 
The Jake's mentions that it has a machined forward hub, so I'm sure that adds a lot. (The TCI that you linked wouldn't have that.) It also says it comes with a rear band, which the TCI says does not. Jake's has the roller clutch, full set of bushings, thrust washers and HD intermediate snap ring, which the TCI doesn't.

Is Jake's worth that much more? Depends on how worried you are about those extra components. You might buy it, get into the trans, and find out that you don't even need the bushings (most of the time you don't) and some other stuff.

I'm just an amateur builder at this point. But if you have the time I've learned that getting into the trans and inspecting everything should be done before ordering parts. That way you know exactly what you need, aren't buying what you don't, and the chances of being surprised by something you didn't think you would need are reduced.

And, like RustyC said, your local Transtar probably has everything in both those kits on the shelf for the same price or less without the shipping delay. And if they don't have it they have access to get it. My Transtar has a couple great transmission old-timers who are invaluable with their advice / experience.
 
I guess my problem is I've never done rebuilt a transmission before. If I have a kit and some form of instructions I could probably install it just fine but as far as determining what components are worn out, that would be an experience call I think. Guys like me are why they have kits I guess. Do you think I could just take a list from one of those kits to transtar and have them put a kit together?
 
Beerj said:
I guess my problem is I've never done rebuilt a transmission before. If I have a kit and some form of instructions I could probably install it just fine but as far as determining what components are worn out, that would be an experience call I think. Guys like me are why they have kits I guess. Do you think I could just take a list from one of those kits to transtar and have them put a kit together?
Click to expand...

Transtar will have any number of kits already together. They have the performance clutches if you want as well as kits with them already in them. Transtar is the Wal-Mart of transmission components. There is very little they don't have and almost nothing they can't get.

Once you get inside you will be able to tell stuff that is damaged or worn. Steels will have hot spots or wear marks. Bushings will have the bronze worn off.

I think you might be misunderstanding me though. You'll need a kit. There are multiple levels of kits with any variety of components in them. (As you've found.) You might be able to save some money by waiting until torn down to decide which kit. And you may need components that aren't in any kits. Steels can be re-used a lot of the time. So if you don't need a kit with steels you can save some money.

A lot of it is preference, too. A stock TH400 can handle a lot of abuse. Most people don't really need much more than a stock overhaul. I think most people who go further are doing so for peace of mind. Some guys replace steels no matter what every time. It's really up to you.
 
Gotcha. Yeah, I was thinking you were saying to just make my own kit. Sounds like the only real strength upgrades are stronger inputs and outputs as well as more elements in the sprags, whatever they are. I'll try to get with them this week. Thanks
 
There are normally ways to stuff more frictions in drums, or drums that fit more frictions. That is a strength upgrade. The more frictions in a drum the more torque it can hold without slipping. The shaft upgrades are normally pretty expensive and only for the super-abusive applications. More elements in the sprag clutches / one-way roller bearings is a big thing, too. Other upgrades are hydraulic-related. Like Teflon rings on pistons that expand and retract faster and wear the bores less. And valve body upgrades that increase pressure. Most valve body upgrades will be included with whatever shift kit / valve body you install.
 
Patooyee is spot on. I would run stock input and output. Focus on getting the max clutches in forward and low/reverse. Spend the money on a bad ass cooler and fan setup, you'll be glad you did later on.

The first trans I built i did not pay close enough attention to clutch clearance and end play. Burned up the forward clutch.
 
These things are pretty simple when you break them down into individual components and mechanical principals. Once you get inside and start figuring out exactly how things work everything starts to click and you start to be able to find problems on your own and recognize potential areas where upgrade opportunities exist. If you don't get an ATSG manual for it and study it in depth before and during your tear down you are missing a huge learning opportunity. If you're too cheap to pay for it, here is an infringed pdf:

http://shop.ukrtrans.biz/wp-content/uploads/catalogs/TH400.pdf
 
Spose I'll add a bit.

400s and 4L80Es use many of the same internals. They will interchange.

The number one thing to upgrade is from aluminum clutch Pistons to steel molded. If you ask transtar specifically about these, they will know exactly what you're asking for.

I say that being the most important because you typically will go through a trans and freshen it up then add a mild shift kit or better. This ramps line pressure 10-30psi over stock. It will crack the aluminum Pistons. Usually froward clutch drum right away.

So as along as you use steel molded Pistons in your freshening up, whatever small pressure upgrade you make you can sleep at night knowing the pressure will hold.

Other than that tid bit. You really just gotta tear it down, pay close attention to what you're doing and you'll be fine
 
^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^
That man knows way more than me, BTW. I was hoping he would chime in. He was invaluable to me in a recent thread about rebuilding a 30rh I was working on.
 
Thanks for the info guys. I'm feeling a lot better about doing this.

pholmann said:
Why are you dicking with this? Put that motherfucker in and see if it works first.
Click to expand...
Well I originally started it because I definitely have to rebuild the th350 for the wifes jeep. Then I figured I'd do both. I'll probably try the 400 as it sits but I really like the idea of 1 million elements in my sprag so it's bound to happen sooner or later.
 
Beerj said:
Lol sorry, that was my inner Casey coming out. All I know is more elements = better.
Click to expand...

I think the element options stop at 999,999 so if you need 1,000,000 you're ****ed! :)
 
as soon as I post this my TH350 will fall out sitting in the shop but yeah like Pholmann stated run it an C I was mocking my buggy up and had an ol 10 yr prior built tranny in a mud truck I had an said well hell lets try it ..... Its been slamming gears and pulling 43s around since 2012 ish !!!!! :****: :****: :gtfo: :dblthumb: :dblthumb:
 
Re:

I've been abusing the same 700r4 for 5 years now. Just sold my spare so I'm sure it's gonna **** the bed and make me put a 400 in

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