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Help Support Hardline Crawlers :
tube bending help....
- Thread starter nick c
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Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
Get an angle finder NOT A LEVEL! put it out on the very end, and a few other places, check it to what the tube bender die is in a couple directions, match the tube up to the bender die... that's what i do, and it seems to work.:redneck:
I've found my die will be off a few degrees one way or the other due to the tube weighing it down one way or the floor slope, etc. TAKE YOUR TIME! :awesomework:
Just remember, listen to the advice of many, USE the advice of few...:redneck:
I've found my die will be off a few degrees one way or the other due to the tube weighing it down one way or the floor slope, etc. TAKE YOUR TIME! :awesomework:
Just remember, listen to the advice of many, USE the advice of few...:redneck:
Oh if anyone in the area that has bent a good amount of tube and can help we will be bending next saturday.
I'll provide food and beer and transportation from Puyallup to Tenino if someone that knows what the hell they are doing will come down and give us a hand for a day next Saturday.
I'll provide food and beer and transportation from Puyallup to Tenino if someone that knows what the hell they are doing will come down and give us a hand for a day next Saturday.
Angle finder, we have a few of those I'll give that a shot.
Oh and we've fawked up 3 sticks already.
Hopefully we can find places to use the fawked up stuff later (I'm sure we will).
what is happening is you are getting the plane of the bend off. if all the bends are to be on the same plane you can scribe a line down the tube lengthwise and make sure that line is in the exact same place every time.
i try to use something on the tube itself like the joint line where it was welded. even though its drawn over a mandrel it is usually still visible and accurate.
angle finder is your friend. that is the hardest part to bending is getting the planes correct.
i try to use something on the tube itself like the joint line where it was welded. even though its drawn over a mandrel it is usually still visible and accurate.
angle finder is your friend. that is the hardest part to bending is getting the planes correct.
jeepmauler
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If it is drawing the exit leg up or down THE SAME EVERY TIME then compensate for it when you clamp the tube to the die and it will come out flat (or flat enough)
Boonie Buster
Stuck on a Curb
JD2?! :redneck:
well between you guys and anthony (thanks for calling anthony) it sounds like I need to get the bender off the casters so its stabile and doesn't move around. Then level out the die.
So I'll give that a shot and see what happens.
So I'll give that a shot and see what happens.
64FJ40
Well-Known Member
I'm certainly not a bending expert, but in addition to making sure the bender is level, it seems like it would be a good idea to follow Hip's advice and make a longitudinal line the full length of the stick. Then make a mark on your die to keep them in the same spot for each bend if all the bends are happening in the same plane.
jeepmauler
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I have to ask....So you have a couple previous attempts at bending said hoop and they are dimensionally correct other than be skewed? ie the distance between the starts/ends of the bends is correct as well as the bend angles themselves??
If this is correct why not take one of said "mistakes" and cut,spud and roll the thing flat and be done with it and not use up anymore full sticks? If you guys can weld and have decent material for a spud or two...the spudded section will br WAY stronger than the parent tube in the end.
It's an S-10 truggy.......not the ****in space shuttle
:flipoff:
If this is correct why not take one of said "mistakes" and cut,spud and roll the thing flat and be done with it and not use up anymore full sticks? If you guys can weld and have decent material for a spud or two...the spudded section will br WAY stronger than the parent tube in the end.
It's an S-10 truggy.......not the ****in space shuttle
:flipoff:I have to ask....So you have a couple previous attempts at bending said hoop and they are dimensionally correct other than be skewed? ie the distance between the starts/ends of the bends is correct as well as the bend angles themselves??
If this is correct why not take one of said "mistakes" and cut,spud and roll the thing flat and be done with it and not use up anymore full sticks? If you guys can weld and have decent material for a spud or two...the spudded section will br WAY stronger than the parent tube in the end.
It's an S-10 truggy.......not the ****in space shuttle
We do have a couple previous attempts, I had not thought of spudding the hoop to make it flat. I honestly didn't realize that was 'acceptable' practice. But that will probably be a fine solution to our problem.
And sorry but I must correct you this is a Nissan 720 truggy (Aaron is building the S-10) 720's are WAY more complicated and cooler. :redneck:
jeepmauler
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Touche
As I said....as long as you can weld and you have "good" material for spuds(fits snug into the ID of the parent tube and is at least the wall thickness of the parent tube or is solid),leave a gap between the two ends of parent tube so you burn into the spud as well as the tube ends and predrill for some plug welds out in the field..........sand(not grind
) smooth,paint and no one will be the wiser:awesomework:That spud area will be BURL.........the front of my buggy(shock hoops forward) is a spud fest due to the weird angles and tight bends and I assure you it sees some abuse.
Jeepless
Sleep deprived and proud
I bent mine back after my attempt back in the day...it was a dangerous, challenging redneck engineering marval. I think it was out, maybe 6 inchs. I think I used a highlift, the support beam in the center of the garage and then a couple of straps....What a bicth is was to do, but in the end the cage went in with a little "assistance":redneck:. Why in the hell didn't some one tell me about this spudding thing..damn it.
jeepmauler
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Sorry:redneck:
Jeepless
Sleep deprived and proud
:fawkdancesmiley:
tomsbrokeagain
Well-Known Member
I would do as Mauler has stated.
It is nice to get everything flat or in the plane you need on your first try but it will take a bit of practice.
I use something like this when I bend and have learned how to use it. http://www.vansantent.com/dial_levels.htm
When you do tube work you have to think 3D not 2D, just takes some getting used to.
It is nice to get everything flat or in the plane you need on your first try but it will take a bit of practice.
I use something like this when I bend and have learned how to use it. http://www.vansantent.com/dial_levels.htm
When you do tube work you have to think 3D not 2D, just takes some getting used to.
i made one of them and tryed it kinda helped but you got lost of stuff going on at one time give me a call and ill try to walk you through it or maybe you could stop by im in tacoma and ill explane it to you on mine k
dan 360-888-6160 cell
dan 360-888-6160 cell
P
PUO-BANNED
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Those are nice :awesomework:
If I was at the shop I'd take a pic of the el cheapo one we made out of a ACE hardware angle finder, Piece of 1/4 wall round tube, 2. 1/4 inch x 1 bolts, and a piece of flat stock :redneck:
