tubing notcher ?

pokey · Jan 7, 2007

Ok I know its crap but I have one of these harbor freight tubing notchers. It seems to work ok except it wont go all the way thru 1.5 tubing before the mandrel hits the tube. So my question is is there a trick or special holesaw (long) for using on this? Or do you just finish up the cut with a sazall or such?
I tried all the regular hrw stores but all the holesaws are the same size

Not Jobless · Jan 7, 2007

pokey said:
Ok I know its crap but I have one of these harbor freight tubing notchers. It seems to work ok except it wont go all the way thru 1.5 tubing before the mandrel hits the tube. So my question is is there a trick or special holesaw (long) for using on this? Or do you just finish up the cut with a sazall or such?
I tried all the regular hrw stores but all the holesaws are the same size

Need a longer/deeper hole saw...or just turn the tube around 180 degrees, reverse the angle and cut it the rest of the way.

pokey · Jan 7, 2007

do you know of a place to get a longer hole saw?

dr drae · Jan 7, 2007

pokey said:
do you know of a place to get a longer hole saw?

http://www.acehardware.com/sm-dewalt-and-reg-bi-metal-deep-cut-hole-saw-d186030--pi-1342624.html

how deep is the one you've got now?

pokey · Jan 7, 2007

dr drae said:
http://www.acehardware.com/sm-dewalt-and-reg-bi-metal-deep-cut-hole-saw-d186030--pi-1342624.html

how deep is the one you've got now?

same as that one (link) seems like all I found were 1 3/4 deep. I was hoping to find something about 3-4 " deep so it will work on a bevel

TTF Fabrication · Jan 7, 2007

the longest holesaw you will fine is a 1 7/8" and thats considered a "deep cut." what you do is cut an angle with a sawzall in the tube so that the holesaw doesnt bottom out. i dont know how to explain this without a picture. // if the holesaw is coming at a 45* from the top left, nock 45* or so off of it where the holesaw first makes contact, just don't go down so far beyond the point that the holesaw is going to cope out. ill take a pic tomorrow if that horrible explanation didnt cut it. or anyone help me explain this better?

pbmcauliffe · Jan 7, 2007

Cut your tube at the angle of the notch first, then notch about 1/2" and you'll usually clear the mandrel, if that doesn't work, I will cut it as far as it goes, then break the cut section off with channel locks, then notch the rest of the way.

Hip · Jan 7, 2007

pbmcauliffe said:
Cut your tube at the angle of the notch first, then notch about 1/2" and you'll usually clear the mandrel, if that doesn't work, I will cut it as far as it goes, then break the cut section off with channel locks, then notch the rest of the way.

exactly... i try to kinda get the shape close when cutting but if it dont cut all the way i pull a piece off with channel locks or sometimes just bent it a little for the extra clearence.

the same POS notcher has done hundreds of notches but mine the bushing block is finally worn out.

TTF Fabrication · Jan 7, 2007

yeah, i usually do that (break off the first section with vise grips). but bunk taught me to sawzall a little section out before so you can do a full notch in one fell swoop. either way works.

JPFREAK · Jan 8, 2007

It sounds like you have too much tube sticking out past your fishmouth mark. If your doing a zero degree notch then you only need about a 1/2" extra tube beond your mark (this way, as you cut the top part will fall away and not contact the mandrel). If you are doing any other angle you will need even less tube sticking out.

I use the same crappy notcher and standard hole saws and only bottom out the saw on the really steep notches- just back it of and break away the chunk with your channel locks (as was previously stated)

Aint fab fun?!:redneck:

pokey · Jan 8, 2007

JPFREAK said:
It sounds like you have too much tube sticking out past your fishmouth mark. If your doing a zero degree notch then you only need about a 1/2" extra tube beond your mark (this way, as you cut the top part will fall away and not contact the mandrel). If you are doing any other angle you will need even less tube sticking out.

I use the same crappy notcher and standard hole saws and only bottom out the saw on the really steep notches- just back it of and break away the chunk with your channel locks (as was previously stated)

Aint fab fun?!:redneck:

That makes a great deal of sense since the first time I played with it (on Scrap) was right down the middle of the piece(hole saw cutting both sides) Thanks everyone for the great advise I know I learned a few things:cheer:
Now if I can just get back to work on it

Rokcrler1 · Feb 12, 2007

While were talking about the HF notcher... what have ya'll done to make them work better than out of the box? Finally wore out the first one i bought 3 rigs ago...

darius · Feb 13, 2007

To beef up a HF notcher, first you will need 2 HF notchers, ditch both of the bushing block's, and one of the clamps. Bolt the bottom plates together, replace the crappy metric bolt's with 3/8 bolt's and use 2 washers on each bolt to keep the bolt's from pulling through. Now you want to make you're own bushing block's out of 2 old worn out heim's, don't even try to use new heim's, you're drill won't wanna spin them. The height is now adjustable for when it start's notching off center and the heim's won't ever get wobbly like the stock bushing. It's not a cheapo $40 notcher anymore, but it will last forever.