U-joints

JPTHING · Feb 25, 2007

I have witnessed 3 u-joint failures today, I have in the past broke every kind of u-joint brand that I personally know of, so what are the best type of driveshaft u-joints, and where is the closest place I can get them? I love how manufacturers develop super heavy duty axle u-joints to no end, but no-one makes a good driveshaft U-joint.

MarcW · Feb 25, 2007

JPTHING said:
I have witnessed 3 u-joint failures today, I have in the past broke every kind of u-joint brand that I personally know of, so what are the best type of driveshaft u-joints, and where is the closest place I can get them? I love how manufacturers develop super heavy duty axle u-joints to no end, but no-one makes a good driveshaft U-joint.

i would just go with new spicers. and upgrade to the U bolt style of attachment to the yoke's instead of the strap style.

crash2 · Feb 25, 2007

It depends on why/how its failing clint.

There are a # of factors that go into it. Axle wrap binging up the joint. Straps(weak) vs. u-bolt style yokes. oblong yokes where the cap goes in ect...

pokey · Feb 25, 2007

Same as above and remember that ujoints are by design a fuse of sorts. If you dont break the joint you will just break the next weak link which will by all chances cost more:booo:

Tankota · Feb 25, 2007

Neapco or spicer 1350 minimum. 1410 if money permits or type of rig may require it.

I tend to wear out (break teh needles) due to my yokes being slightly worn. Never broke a joint though. The rear 60 I have came with a 1310 yoke:wtf: Tossed that immediately.

JOOP · Feb 25, 2007

Angles on the u-joint kills them. Too much axle wrap and the u-joint can turn it just snap's. BTDT

Cascade_Crawler · Feb 25, 2007

Clint...Do you have an anti wrap bar on your sprung over YJ?

PORTER · Feb 25, 2007

Tankota said:
Neapco or spicer 1350 minimum. 1410 if money permits or type of rig may require it

This right here speaks volumes. I am yet to break a u-joint. Of course I dont run the iddy bitty stuff. If you choose to run the 1/2ton or less, replace accordingly broken/worn out or not.:;

JPTHING · Feb 25, 2007

I was heading up to Reiter, yesterday, and after finding out that JB conversions should put in their SYE instructions that I had to cut 3/4" off the shift bar, in order for it to shift out of 2wd(took me until 1:00pm to get it fixed).

Then after breaking the rear u-joint, I wheeled all day on mostly light stuff, cause I thought it would break again. Got to my house went through a pretty big mud hole, come out the other side, and got hung up on a tree, come to find out I had been running all day with only one hub locked in. I wheeled all day today, and no problems.

JPTHING · Feb 25, 2007

Cascade_Crawler said:
Clint...Do you have an anti wrap bar on your sprung over YJ?

I have read that an anti wrap bar isn't necessary. I am using MJ add-a-leafs, and 6" perches.

JOOP · Feb 25, 2007

JPTHING said:
I have read that an anti wrap bar isn't necessary. I am using MJ add-a-leafs, and 6" perches.

What size tires, gears, and motor you have pushing it. I am SUA with 36" and a 4.6 stroker. I get tons of wrap. I'm sure you get it too.

junkyard jim · Feb 26, 2007

What about Ox joints?

Nuzzy · Feb 26, 2007

junkyard jim said:
What about Ox joints?

Suck balls.

79chevy39.5's · Feb 26, 2007

there are guys on pirate who are making there own drive shafts out of axelshaft joints that way they are super strong and you will break that on before the axelshaft one because of the gear reduction ill look for the post