U-Joints?

War-Jeeper · Mar 24, 2007

Alright so my poor old Ford Ranger 4X4 is in need of new front axle U-Joints badly. But i have one question Greasable U-Joints or Non-Greasable U-Joints? Whats your experice with them and what would you suggest?

Thanks in advance for any help!

Toyotanut · Mar 24, 2007

do greasable, that way you have a hand in how long they last.

War-Jeeper · Mar 24, 2007

Toyotanut said:
do greasable, that way you have a hand in how long they last.

Hopefully i will get more response in the next few days lol. I was thinking though if they are greasable wouldnt that allow a way for water to be able to enter the joint? Or am i completely wrong there?

Jaydog · Mar 24, 2007

Nope, actually if you run through water and it does happen to get in, you can push it out when you grease the joint, every joint that you can get to should be grease-able.

War-Jeeper · Mar 24, 2007

Jaydog said:
Nope, actually if you run through water and it does happen to get in, you can push it out when you grease the joint, every joint that you can get to should be grease-able.

O thats a very good point hadnt thought of that. So i could just grease them any time i go through mud or water crossings then once i get home

Not Jobless · Mar 25, 2007

For your little front end I would go non-greasable Spicer joints. The cross drilling of the main body in the greasable joints weakens that poor little thing.

Just keep an eye on them, and the new spicer joints with the snap lock caps seal alot better than the off the shelf parts you find at the local stores.

War-Jeeper · Mar 25, 2007

Jobless said:
For your little front end I would go non-greasable Spicer joints. The cross drilling of the main body in the greasable joints weakens that poor little thing.

Just keep an eye on them, and the new spicer joints with the snap lock caps seal alot better than the off the shelf parts you find at the local stores.

So wait a second would that cross drilling really matter on a small front end then?

Nuzzy · Mar 25, 2007

War-Jeeper said:
So wait a second would that cross drilling really matter on a small front end then?

I would believe the cross drilling would make the joint weaker than not...

Not Jobless · Mar 25, 2007

War-Jeeper said:
So wait a second would that cross drilling really matter on a small front end then?

I run non-greasable Spicer joints in my turd...no play, no roughness in the bearings, etc...and they have been in there for years.

Yes, in a little U-joint the cross drilling is removing material from the entire cross section of the body, how can it not weaken it?

Bobby Long has way more experience in this area, he would know more.

War-Jeeper · Mar 25, 2007

Jobless said:
I run non-greasable Spicer joints in my turd...no play, no roughness in the bearings, etc...and they have been in there for years.

Yes, in a little U-joint the cross drilling is removing material from the entire cross section of the body, how can it not weaken it?

Bobby Long has way more experience in this area, he would know more.

Wheres Bobby when you need him lol.......I do see yer point though, no matter how small the front end any sort of cross drilling will make the joint a bit weaker.

Where can i get the spicer U-joints for my ranger?

KarlVP · Mar 25, 2007

War-Jeeper said:
Where can i get the spicer U-joints for my ranger?

Napa carries them. As does randys ring and pinion. Also Drivelines Northwest.

War-Jeeper · Mar 25, 2007

KarlVP said:
Napa carries them. As does randys ring and pinion. Also Drivelines Northwest.

O sweet im hitting up NAPA i get wholesale there

Totalled · Mar 26, 2007

Spicer 5-760X.

You can do this too... though if you don't wheel your ranger you probably don't need to.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/May06/dana35_ujoint_snapring.htm

War-Jeeper · Mar 26, 2007

Totalled said:
Spicer 5-760X.

You can do this too... though if you don't wheel your ranger you probably don't need to.

http://www.therangerstation.com/Magazine/May06/dana35_ujoint_snapring.htm

I might just o that while im in there even if i dont wheel it to hard wouldnt hurt anything to do it

Do you know where to find a tutorial on removing the axle shafts as i have never had to do that before lol

Totalled · Mar 26, 2007

A chilton's manual... :flipoff:

J/K

For the driver's side.. Pull the hub/rotor/spindle off... the shaft slides out of the diff. For the passenger side.. you can cut a clamp off on the rubber slip boot, and pull the passenger shaft off the slip joint and out after removing the hub/rotor/spindle. To get the slip joint out of the diff.. you have to pull the pig out of the axle beam. Remove the 10 bolts that retain it to the beam. Then remove the nut and washer on the driver's side radius arm at the frame bracket, and pull it forward out of the bracket. Then swing the radius arm outside out of the way so you can remove the verticle bolt that retains the pig to the back side of the axle beam. pull the pig out of there. (Have a large drain pan, it's gonna puke gear oil everywhere...) The passenger shaft is retained in the beam with a spring type c-clip. remove the clip, and it will pull straight out of the diff. Reverse for reassembly.. use RTV to seal it back up. Takes 2.5 quarts of gear oil IIRC.

War-Jeeper · Mar 26, 2007

Totalled said:
A chilton's manual... :flipoff:

J/K

For the driver's side.. Pull the hub/rotor/spindle off... the shaft slides out of the diff. For the passenger side.. you can cut a clamp off on the rubber slip boot, and pull the passenger shaft off the slip joint and out after removing the hub/rotor/spindle. To get the slip joint out of the diff.. you have to pull the pig out of the axle beam. Remove the 10 bolts that retain it to the beam. Then remove the nut and washer on the driver's side radius arm at the frame braket, and pull it forward out of the braket. Then swing the radius arm outside out of the way so you can remove the verticle bolt that retains the pig to the back side of the axle beam. pull the pig out of there. (Have a large drain pan, it's gonna puke gear oil everywhere...) The pasenger shaft is reatined in the beam with a sping type c-clip. remove the clip, and it will pull straight out of the diff.

I looked in the chiltons manual i have they were the crappiest instructions i have ever seen.....im going to try and find a tutorial with some pictures because personally i cant figure out what the hell is going on without a few pictures to help explain the process lol

Thanks for the help though yer instructions helped out quite a bit now i just want to find pictures of somebody doing it

Totalled · Mar 26, 2007

Read my post now. I edited with pics. :hi:

War-Jeeper · Mar 26, 2007

Totalled said:
Read my post now. I edited with pics. :hi:

thanks!!! So i see you supported everything by the frame because when doing this there isnt really anywhere else to supposrt the vehicle correct?

Totalled · Mar 27, 2007

You have to support it by the frame if you want to pull the pig... because you have to move the radius arm over to get the verticle bolt out. Look at the diff from the pinion side and you'll see it on the left side of the pinon and why you have to move the arm to get it out... if you put it up on stands by the beams.. it makes removing stuff much more difficult and unstable..

War-Jeeper · Mar 27, 2007

Totalled said:
You have to support it by the frame if you want to pull the pig... because you have to move the radius arm over to get the verticle bolt out. Look at the diff from the pinion side and you'll see it on the left side of the pinon and why you have to move the arm to get it out... if you put it up on stands by the beams.. it makes removing stuff much more difficult and unstable..

Alrighty...sounds like the frame will be my safest way to go! Thanks for all your help!!!:awesomework: