Uh, yeah, so my Toy ate it's own head.

TrikeKid · Mar 25, 2007

Have the head pulled off my 22R for what was supposed to be a simple head gasket replacement, the thing was pushing water into the cylinders and finally watered the oil. Flip the head over to scrape the gasket off and found this on the #2 and #3 waterjackets

So,
Is this common on a high mile (251k) motor?
Is it something a shop can fix, if so who?
If it's not repairable, where do I go to get a new/rebuilt head?

Also, where's a good place to get a cam around here? Mine is more screwed up than I'd like to put back in an otherwise good motor.

crash2 · Mar 25, 2007

Replace it. Hopefully notstock will jump in here with the link to where he got his(good deal/good quality)

Toyotanut · Mar 25, 2007

check out these guys, Probably one of the best places around

cheesemaker · Mar 25, 2007

The head on my nissan did that, due to I never changed antifreeze. And it actually ruined the motor too!

Glenn · Mar 25, 2007

x2 for Engnbldr. :awesomework:

Fullywrecked · Mar 25, 2007

Very common if the antifreeze is not changed regularly. Parkland national on 127th. and pacific ave has fixed a few for me. If your rebuilding I would just get a new head from engnblder.com.

notstock · Mar 25, 2007

crash said:
Replace it. Hopefully notstock will jump in here with the link to where he got his(good deal/good quality)

Didn't even need to jump in, they all covered it for me:haha:
The castings are from South America & seem to be of good quality. A complete new head ran around $500 with a new cam. I got the 261 "crawler cam" because I wanted a little more oomph at a little lower rpm. I have no complaints so far. I have also heard of new heads on E-bay. Electrolysis is common when the antifreeze has not been changed regularly. What do your cylinder walls look like? I seem to see a fair amount of oil in the chambers from that photo, could be valve guides leaking. From looking at the head I would suspect possible ring problems also

TrikeKid · Mar 25, 2007

notstock said:
Didn't even need to jump in, they all covered it for me:haha:
The castings are from South America & seem to be of good quality. A complete new head ran around $500 with a new cam. I got the 261 "crawler cam" because I wanted a little more oomph at a little lower rpm. I have no complaints so far. I have also heard of new heads on E-bay. Electrolysis is common when the antifreeze has not been changed regularly. What do your cylinder walls look like? I seem to see a fair amount of oil in the chambers from that photo, could be valve guides leaking. From looking at the head I would suspect possible ring problems also

The cylinders are actually in fine shape (they're on the first overbore, so it has been rebuilt). Other than engine oil changes, the truck wasn't maintained for **** by the PO, I don't think the axles had seen fresh oil since the 80's. I'm not going to rebuild it right now, plan is to pick up another bottom end so I can rebuild it while the truck is still driveable.

I don't see anything on the engnblder site about rocker arms, do those come on the complete heads or will I have to go elsewhere for them (the one on the worst lobe of my cam is fubared)

cheesemaker · Mar 26, 2007

Send Ted at engnbldr a e-mail, he's really good at replying pretty fast!

skrause · Mar 29, 2007

Fullywrecked said:
Very common if the antifreeze is not changed regularly.

Electrolysis. Very common with Prestone, fresh or otherwise. This is where that white powdery stuff in your radiator is coming from. Use Toyota red and make sure all your ground straps are in place both on the head and block, won't happen again.

TrikeKid · Apr 5, 2007

Hey, I was wondering on this whole electrolysis mess, could I use the coolant stabilizer (or something to that effect, I can't remember the name) for big diesels to fight this when I get my motor back together? Supposed to balance out the acidity of the water, been working for my dad's KW quite well.

skrause · Apr 5, 2007

TrikeKid said:
Hey, I was wondering on this whole electrolysis mess, could I use the coolant stabilizer (or something to that effect, I can't remember the name) for big diesels to fight this when I get my motor back together? Supposed to balance out the acidity of the water, been working for my dad's KW quite well.

I'd just throw the Toy red stuff in it and be done, seems to do just fine for two years easy. Best part is if you have a leak it leaves a whiteish-pinkish powdery residue behind so they're easy to find. It's worth the extra cost.