I just bought a 95 blazer for dirt cheap.The guy that i got it from had a freeze plug go bad a block from his house.He pulled the engine and replaced it. After reinstalling the engine it will not start. It seems to be a timing issue as it was popping out the intake.I tried to reset the distribitor but that just mad it turn over acting like no spark or fuel. What to look for. Agian it is a 95 s10 blazer .
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vortec 4.3?
- Thread starter Brian H
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gr8wing
Active Member
I would want to know if it is a goodwrench engine or a motor from a JUNK yard. If it is a GW motor, there should be no problems with cam timing so the first place I would start is to bring #1 to TDC on the compression stroke and make sure the dist. rotor is pointing to #1. The firing order should be 165432 and laid out in a clockwise order. There are a lot of different things to look at with a vortec, but start with the timing.
He replaced the freeze plug not the whole engine. It never got hot so there was no need for that.I did that already and now it wont even pop off with a little squirt of starting fluid. It is possible i have it a tooth off as its a bitch to get to.Im sure its something stupid simple.
?:scratchhead:.... It has fuel pressure and spark. I checked it off the bleeder valve.Spark isnt strong but it does have spark.
wheeler4x4samota
Well-Known Member
Bodaciouscj7
Well-Known Member
Double check the wiring harness to the distributor. Distributor is the cam sensor to so. needs proper cam signal to fire spider injector. If all you connections are good, recheck the distributor timing. If it ran before you pulled the distributor and it wont run now, something is either unplugged or you dropped the distributor out of time, maybe 180 out.
Also, if you disconnected the brake vacuum line and missed reconnecting it she may not start. Learned that the hard way at the shop.
crapyota
Well-Known Member
why did the freeze plug pop out? there could be more problems. possibly!
it had to of got hot some right. how did he know freeze plug feel out,when the temp gauge started rising fast?
thats how i knew mine fell out,after it getting replaced truck ran like ****. it had a small crack in head,and the head gasket was blown just a lil in between cylinders. no oil in water.
i know this realy didnt help much. can you take valve covers off,and look. i have also had a stuck valve on a rig i swore it was just timing rig ran fine then just died at a stop sign. plugs looked bad so i did complete tune up fired up,but was still missing,pulled valve covers problem was spotted right away.
it had to of got hot some right. how did he know freeze plug feel out,when the temp gauge started rising fast?
thats how i knew mine fell out,after it getting replaced truck ran like ****. it had a small crack in head,and the head gasket was blown just a lil in between cylinders. no oil in water.
i know this realy didnt help much. can you take valve covers off,and look. i have also had a stuck valve on a rig i swore it was just timing rig ran fine then just died at a stop sign. plugs looked bad so i did complete tune up fired up,but was still missing,pulled valve covers problem was spotted right away.
If it was just a freeze plug then how did the timing get messed up??
There are several failures of freeze plugs.
1. They can rust away from lack of maintenance. If they never flushed the coolant I'm sure the PH level got high enough to eat the freeze plug away. Usually ends up with a small hole in the freeze plug. Kinda like electralissis (sp??)
2. If it has overheated it can pop out a freeze plug
3. If there was nothing but water in the engine, in the winter time when it freezes it can pop out a freeze plug. But then you have to ask yourself, Why was it just water? Does it have a coolant leak?? Is the water pump any good??
There are several failures of freeze plugs.
1. They can rust away from lack of maintenance. If they never flushed the coolant I'm sure the PH level got high enough to eat the freeze plug away. Usually ends up with a small hole in the freeze plug. Kinda like electralissis (sp??)
2. If it has overheated it can pop out a freeze plug
3. If there was nothing but water in the engine, in the winter time when it freezes it can pop out a freeze plug. But then you have to ask yourself, Why was it just water? Does it have a coolant leak?? Is the water pump any good??
gr8wing
Active Member
The Vortec runs at 50 psi fuel pressure so even if it had 25-30 lbs of pressure, it would not fire. Checking the bleeder would not do any good without a guage. That said, it would fire with starting fluid/carb cleaner. Does it have spark?
How many miles are on this motor?
How many miles are on this motor?
Im taking it to a shop today.Im tired of screwing with it.
The freeze plug had a rust hole in it.
Ok made some progress today. The distribitor was stabbed wrong. We got it to run of brake clean but as soon as you pull it off it dies. We have 60lbs of fuel pressure at the fuel rail. I guess all it could be is the injectors not firing..... but the snap on scan tool doesnt throw any codes. Where do i go from here?
zukkev
Cornfuzzled yet again...
Brian, pm heading your way...
Spanaway Mudder
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For what its worth..There is a wire/plug under the passengerside dash below the heater and at the top of the carpet..unplug that once you get it running and try timing it.. My dad's 91 wouldnt run worth **** and couldnt time it due to that wire..unplugged it and hit it with a timing light and adjusted the dizzy and now it runs top..:awesomework:
Bill USN-1
Active Member
There are several things you can check.
The injector should have 12V on it anytime the key is on. The ECM/computer sends the ground to the other side of it to fire it.
Think of it as a rely that gets energized when the ground is connected.
So check for 12V on the both sides of the injector with the key on.
Then crank the engine and the light will flash or the meter will pulse as the ECM applies the ground.
Now the ECM needs the get a DRP-distr ref pulse from the distr/ICM before it will send the ground to the injector. This keeps the inj from dumping fuel in the motor when there is no spark.
You can also disconnect the wires from the inj and measure the resistance.
The spec is either in your manual, which I know you own, or look under troubleshooting on autozone.com
As for timing...there is bypass connector that allows you to set the static timing. You can check it while cranking the engine.
But if you get it to run you can set it about 20* at a warm idle for a 4.3 with the bypass still connected.
The injector should have 12V on it anytime the key is on. The ECM/computer sends the ground to the other side of it to fire it.
Think of it as a rely that gets energized when the ground is connected.
So check for 12V on the both sides of the injector with the key on.
Then crank the engine and the light will flash or the meter will pulse as the ECM applies the ground.
Now the ECM needs the get a DRP-distr ref pulse from the distr/ICM before it will send the ground to the injector. This keeps the inj from dumping fuel in the motor when there is no spark.
You can also disconnect the wires from the inj and measure the resistance.
The spec is either in your manual, which I know you own, or look under troubleshooting on autozone.com
As for timing...there is bypass connector that allows you to set the static timing. You can check it while cranking the engine.
But if you get it to run you can set it about 20* at a warm idle for a 4.3 with the bypass still connected.
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ljtoy
Member
Fuel pumps have high failure rates. They are high volume as well as 60+psi at test port.
Bill USN-1
Active Member
How does this apply to his problem?
If he has 60psi at the port and no fuel squirting from the injector even when cranking.
Now if the pressure dropped under a load while hitting the gas then I would look at filters or lines or pumps. But he already stated he had pressure.
Not looking to send a guy off to spend more money on parts he doesn't need.
It's cheaper to trouble shoot then just throw parts at a problem.
And what do you consider a high failure rate?
1yr, 5yrs, 100,000 miles?
They normaly fail due to dirt in the system from lack of maintenance.
Always run a good filter before the pump on an inline installation.
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