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VSS issue

Kauaibuilt47

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So, my build is coming up shortly and Im looking at ways to try and save some money.....Instead of using a Stak or atlas Im thinking of using a D300 or NP205.

VSS issues - how to adapt to a 205 (no adapter available) or to D300 ($550 Novak adapter).

D300 - using a JB 32 Sp output, set up for mech speedo, and adapting it for a VSS. Complications anyone can see in this? Cost?

NP 205 - ?????

Now I just read about drilling into the 4x4 4L60E and inserting/adapting a 2wd 4L60E VSS (tranny mounted). Does anyone have any contact that can confirm/deny this or who know it themselves?

What about bolting them up. I read on Pirate that, w/ a new input gear, the D300 will bolt right up to the stock 6-bolt t-case adapter.

Supposedly the 6-bolt P 205 will also bolt right up w/ a new input gear: ford, dodge, or late chevy (i think)

Now, if the clocking is a problem but they both use the same 6-bolt pattern the JB conversion clocking ring for the 300 should work for both right?

Thanks guys!
 
Which motor (TBI I assume) are you using?

A speedo assembly from an 87 wrangler with the 6 cyl (I think) will work with the Dana 300 and you can pick up a VSS adapter from Howell to work with the 4.3 TBI and probably some others. To simplifiy things you can also have your ECM programmed to have the VSS deleted since it's only necassary in CA. I run my TBI with no VSS and this is what was done to mine, though I do have some troubles with the idle dropping too low after coming off the throttle. Not sure if that's related.

Keep us posted on what you come up with

:beer:
 
see, im still confused on the TBI, TPI, CPI, whatever. Its a 2003 chevy 4.3L. Dont think I can get the VSS deleted and still use my 4l60e, at least that what everything ive read has said, PBB is your friend as long as you dont post stupid stuff.

Im gonna call a few tranny shops today and see what they say.
 
you will still need the VSS as there are a few things that keep the fuel pump running. VSS being one of them. when the TPI drops below 700 rpm it no longer sends the signal needed to leep the fuel running so that is where the VSS comes in. as long as it sences vehicle speed it keeps the fuel running. this mostly comes into play at real low RPM like less than 700.

with the ford manuel setup i could not really wheel cause the engine kept dieng wheen i lugged it down a little.

i ran ito the same problems as i ran a dana 20 and they were all pre FI so no stock application.

i got an aftermarket with adapters here http://www.classicinstruments.com/index.aspx?documentID=senders

you will need to know what type of signal you ECU needs.
 
fubar73cj5 said:
Which motor (TBI I assume) are you using?
, though I do have some troubles with the idle dropping too low after coming off the throttle. Not sure if that's related.

Keep us posted on what you come up with

:beer:

Same issue. It definitely is related.

I cannot find the original site that sells the mechanical to electric conversion that you need. You will need to check into the year your TBI is made compared to the pulse rate (2000 or 4000).

In any case, some quick google searching came up with this:

http://www.northwestoffroad.com/parts/wiring.html (scroll down)

Something from this site might work? http://www.shiftworks.com/tailhousing.htm

Oh hey, I found it. Howell-EFI.com Someone sticky that. $85.00 and all your problems will be fixed. http://www.howellefi.com/shop/customer/product.php?productid=16200&cat=255&page=3[/B]

product_image.php
 
The howell looks good, thanks. Now the million dollar question.

It looks like it plugs in between the VSS and 205/300 t-case. Are there gonna be any changes to the mech speedo gear in the case? Or would you just re-program the computer?
 
hahahahahahhahahahahhaah found it!!!!!!!!

"On 4x4 applications, the shift linkage to the transfer case may interfere with the sensor if it is installed on the driver's side, so mounting the sensor on the passenger's side is the obvious solution.

Installing the sensor requires drilling and tapping a 3/4"-16 UNF hole into the transmission case. The wall thickness of the case is 5/16" in the areas shown, which gives five full threads of engagement. When installing the sensor, coat the threads with epoxy, then screw the sensor into the case until it just touches the reluctor ring, then back it off 1/2 turn. This gives a .030" gap, whch is ideal. Epoxy putty should be built up around the sensor on the outside of the case to hold the sensor securely in place.

Many people fear drilling and tapping a hole into the transmission case — the case is aluminum, and it is an easy job to drill and tap. The positioning of the hole is not that critical, and the drilling can be done with a hand-held electric drill. To keep aluminum chips from getting into the transmission, put a piece of tape over the oil return hole (about 1/2" diameter), and put a piece of tape over the oil spray hole (see page 12-13 of manual). After drilling and tapping the hole, wipe the area clean with a paper towel and remove the two pieces of tape." JTR website w/ pics of how to drill and tap the back of the tranny to mount the VSS there. Good stuff.

http://stealthconversions.com/Pages/SpeedSensors_Reluctor.html#clamp

w/ this you can mount any t-case and not worry about the VSS or having to switch from passenger to driver drop or anything! YEAH!
 
Nice, thanks for the info. Did you look into the 87 wrangler speedo to howell VSS conversion? Sounds easier than drilling and tapping your case. Good to know that a VSS will more than likely take care of my issue.

Nice work :beer:
 
No prob man, but it wasnt just me. I posted this up on 3 different forums. Will all honesty I have to say that I got the best/friendliest info here. It was the Howell guy that directed me to the correct answer though. The little VSS chapter from JTR (free download) has the directions and it actually looks VERY easy to do.
 
If your transmission or case has the standard speedo cable fitting, wont the howell adapter work just by threading it in?

product_image.php
 

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