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Which Tranfer Case?

Cubby

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I'm trying to decide what transfer case and ratio to get for my Jeep. It'll be an Atlas or Stak, no real difference in cost that I can see. What's working for you guys?

F&R Dana 60's 5.38's (front is HP Ford Driver's Drop)
Stock TPI 350
700R4 (has 23 spline output and first is 3.06 in these I think)
39" tires.

Rear will be linked so drive shaft length shouldn't be an issue.
 
Atlas has that sweet 4spd also.

I really can't make my mind up about what ratio case I need. 3.8 or 4.3 or just spend the money and get that 4 spd with the 1.1, 2.7:1, 3.8:1 & 10.3:1

Something tells me 10.3:1 would never be used here though.
 
Cubby
If you need an expensive case, buy the atlas.
Wow. 5.38 and low case too? if your engine has any power, I'd think you'd want to be between 40:1 and 50:1 ( I like to be between 35 and 42)
a 700 is 3.08, your axles are 5.38, solve for 40 and you're at 2.42:1 in the case, solve for 50:1 and you're at 3.03:1 in the case. With wyatt's on 40" krawlers, 4.88's and 4.3:1, we cant get over 25 mph without bouncing the limiter (3spd auto) in low. it sucks balls. I hate being too low geared. That 700 will let you get away with so much less tcas gearing, as well as the deep ass axles. If I were you Iwould never in a million years go lower than a 3.0. I feel that you will be hating life having to shift to high every time you go to run from obstacle to obstacle. Too high sucks for you and your tranny, too low sucks for everyone with waiting for you.
anything 40:1 1st and lower is plenty low. 50:1 with a 3.0 atlas is MORE than enough gearing even for the hammers with the TC taking up a lot of slack.
 
blacksheep10 said:
Cubby
If you need an expensive case, buy the atlas.
Wow. 5.38 and low case too? if your engine has any power, I'd think you'd want to be between 40:1 and 50:1 ( I like to be between 35 and 42)
a 700 is 3.08, your axles are 5.38, solve for 40 and you're at 2.42:1 in the case, solve for 50:1 and you're at 3.03:1 in the case. With wyatt's on 40" krawlers, 4.88's and 4.3:1, we cant get over 25 mph without bouncing the limiter (3spd auto) in low. it sucks balls. I hate being too low geared. That 700 will let you get away with so much less tcas gearing, as well as the deep ass axles. If I were you Iwould never in a million years go lower than a 3.0. I feel that you will be hating life having to shift to high every time you go to run from obstacle to obstacle. Too high sucks for you and your tranny, too low sucks for everyone with waiting for you.
anything 40:1 1st and lower is plenty low. 50:1 with a 3.0 atlas is MORE than enough gearing even for the hammers with the TC taking up a lot of slack.

I agree. Mine is TH350 (2.52, 1.52,1.00), 3.8 Atlas, 5.38 gears and 39" tires. On the radar gun, I hit the rev limiter at 17MPH low. First is 51.52. Second is 31.07. Third is 20.4. I wish I had more wheel speed.
 
Friend of mine runs an atlas 4.3, 5.38s, and 700 with 35" tires. He wheels in high range a lot.
 
blacksheep10 said:
Cubby
If you need an expensive case, buy the atlas.
Wow. 5.38 and low case too? if your engine has any power, I'd think you'd want to be between 40:1 and 50:1 ( I like to be between 35 and 42)
a 700 is 3.08, your axles are 5.38, solve for 40 and you're at 2.42:1 in the case, solve for 50:1 and you're at 3.03:1 in the case. With wyatt's on 40" krawlers, 4.88's and 4.3:1, we cant get over 25 mph without bouncing the limiter (3spd auto) in low. it sucks balls. I hate being too low geared. That 700 will let you get away with so much less tcas gearing, as well as the deep ass axles. If I were you Iwould never in a million years go lower than a 3.0. I feel that you will be hating life having to shift to high every time you go to run from obstacle to obstacle. Too high sucks for you and your tranny, too low sucks for everyone with waiting for you.
anything 40:1 1st and lower is plenty low. 50:1 with a 3.0 atlas is MORE than enough gearing even for the hammers with the TC taking up a lot of slack.

Kelly

I don't need an expensive case, but the way I see it my only other option is a Ford 205 for the driver's drop and it's only 2:1 probably too high and the lo max 3:1 doesn't come in a 23 spline input. I guess I could go 231/205 or 203/205 doubler, but that seems like a lot going on back there. What would Kelly do? haha I am a cheap ass at heart.

Another thought is to get the Stak replace a case ($700 I think) run stock D300 gears and HD outputs. Can't clock this flat because of trans pan though.

I'm really not sure which way to go and changing my mind later will be expensive.

I appreciate the input on the ratio's and 3:1 saves $100 on the atlas.
 
If you ever wanna feel what a Ford 205 with 5.38s on 39's feels like in low range you can drive mine...I have everything the same except a TH400 tranny.
 
Cubby said:
Kelly

I don't need an expensive case, but the way I see it my only other option is a Ford 205 for the driver's drop and it's only 2:1 probably too high and the lo max 3:1 doesn't come in a 23 spline input. I guess I could go 231/205 or 203/205 doubler, but that seems like a lot going on back there. What would Kelly do? haha I am a cheap ass at heart.

Another thought is to get the Stak replace a case ($700 I think) run stock D300 gears and HD outputs. Can't clock this flat because of trans pan though.

I'm really not sure which way to go and changing my mind later will be expensive.

I appreciate the input on the ratio's and 3:1 saves $100 on the atlas.
not a doubler fan in anything but cab trucks and really long buggies. Is it a jeep? NO doubler there, **** that's long. your rear axle starts at the back of the tub then
Not a 300 fan unless you don't have much power. breaking outputs is easy. all the upgrades/adapters/shifters/case/**** is expensive. Pro-you can build it one piece at a time. Con-you end up with a $1900 case that is not an atlas
A 3.0 or 3.8 atlas is what I would do in a jeep. Depends on your wheeling style. you ever like to get it or just put at less than 10 mph all day?
I still really think 3.0. atlas if that's $ feasible.
 
I run a 3.0 Atlas with 6.17 gears - I like it but have to launch in 2nd on most things and I use high range to get around. Really wish I had 5.38's
 
Why is it 23 spline?, did you have a jeep case behind it? Stock 700 is 27 spine, like a 350.

There is no way in hell I would ever buy or recomend anyone buying a ****ing pos stak. If you insist on buying one, you'd better go ahhead and buy 2 at once. Get an atlas, or get a doubler.
 
Previous owner had a Jeep case behind the Transmission. It looks like I need to get an Atlas 3.0

I'll see what kind of prices I can get. Should be around 2K I think
 
Kelly's right Cubby, with your gearing you will hate the 3.8 or 4.3. I have a TH400, 4.3 Atlas and 4.56's. Had 5.13's before and it was way too low. Still too low now, but better. Having to gear the axles down sucks in 4hi or on the road, it's a dog. Since you are low on the axle and tranny, go with the 3.0
 
Sorry to Hijack but there are already 2 threads on transfer cases. I've got a dilemma. I'm running a Dana 300 for now. My question for everyone is do I need to upgrade to a hd shaft kit? I wheeled the hell out of it for a long time in my jeep before I tore it down to build a buggy. A month before I tore it down I rebuilt it. What do you guys think? I want to eventually put an atlas in but moniez are tight at the moment. Don't know what to do!
 
I know P snapped ine of his outputs at KOTH comp last year, but bounced it pretty good..

Think it just comes down to monies...
Sure, Upgrade now if you can afford it... Let it ride Until it breaks if not..
Seems to be the popular consensus...
 
I hate that attitude. I came through as a broke college student that had to do stuff as money afforded. I always hated going out with the thought that I could break it, made me let off more. I was easy on **** when I still had the 30 splines and lockouts. If you are the type that can take it easy until you can get the scratch to upgrade, I guess do it. If you are going to make an expensive driveshaft to mate up to your small outputs, then redo them when you buy big outputs with 1410's or 1350's, I'd say do the output.
 
Not advocating that approach.. I hate it too.
because usually is cost twice as much to Upgrade as it would to initially buy the part..

But sometimes theres no other option...
 
CheapJ7 said:
because usually is cost twice as much to Upgrade as it would to initially buy the part..

Got a quote for a output for 390.00 An atlas is a lot more than that. But will I be wasting that 390.00 just to upgrade later on? :dunno:
**** this is one thing that is holding me up!
 
I really got a good chance to beat on my rig this weekend and the 231/205 held up great. I love the extra gearing options that I have, even though I only used low low one time. I now have 5.13s with a 4L60e and 42s and I was able to do the majority of the courses in 2/4 hi. in the rocks I used 2:1 a couple times and the last day I used 2.72:1. I could tell a difference in how the gearing did in the technical parts. I dont have a measurement of how long the 231/205 is, but it really isnt much longer than the 231 with the SYE, maybe 3-4"?

what kind of driveline length do you have to work with? if you wanted to go with an Atlas, I would prolly stick with the 3.0, slighty better than any stock ratio, but not as low as most common low range kits.


Brian
 

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