Update.

Checked the ECT sensor, and it appears to be within spec.  The manual only gives resistance values for -4 degrees, 68 degrees, and 176 degrees.  The resistance at 68 degrees is supposed to be 2.2 - 2.7 Ohms.  I was getting about 5 Ohms at 38 degrees ambient temp outside, and since the resistance goes UP as the temp goes DOWN, it seems to coincide with the values.  Since the engine wont start, I obviously cant verify it to be working correctly when warm short of pulling it out and putting it in hot water, which I didnt want to get into (draining coolant).

I then checked the coil input voltage, it was in spec.  The coil resistance for the primary and secondary circuits are also both in spec.

The camshaft sensor input voltage is in spec, as is the sensor voltage range when the distributor is rotating.

I then moved onto the crankshaft sensor.  This is where Im thinking I might be having a little bit of a problem.  The input voltage is in spec, however, it says that while the distributor is rotating, the sensor voltage should "fluctuate between approximately 0 and 5 volts".  Well, I was getting 0 to about 3 volts consistently, and 0 to 5 volts occasionally.

When the camshaft sensor was tested in the same fashion, it was supposed to fluctuate between 5 volts and less than 1 volt.  I was consistently getting 5 down to 0.15 volts while rotating.

I'm wondering if my problem lies in the crankshaft sensor, since the voltage values aren't quite following the specification.  Although, it does say between approximately 0 and 5 volts.  So who's to define what approximate is?  Within 2 volts good enough?

It follows up with a further test to verify voltage on another wire if the voltages aren't within specification.  I went ahead and did this, and mine passed.  This places the "fault" in the crankshaft sensor itself, and not in the wiring or the ECU.

My main concern, is that this effing car has all the above items built into one super expensive distributor so I cant just replace one of the items.  I obviously dont want to slam the money down ($300 or so) for a distributor in a $500 car then have it still not run, so Id like to be very certain of whats wrong first...

~T.J.

EDIT:  New plugs also made no change.