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nowires

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So when doing the wiring on your rigs what do you use and how do you do it

Solder verses crimp
Screw verses blade switches
 
use every thing any way you can..:awesomework:

i sapose thats why my rig is a rolling electrical fire...:beer:
 
use every thing any way you can..:awesomework:

i sapose thats why my rig is a rolling electrical fire...:beer:

:haha::haha::haha: Ummmm yeah, don't take electrical advice from this guy!:fawkdancesmiley:
 
the coil has power right up to the point till you try start it. there is nuthing rong with that right.:redneck:
 
So when doing the wiring on your rigs what do you use and how do you do it

Solder verses crimp
Screw verses blade switches

Never crimp due to mointure and vibration.

I prefer screw but not every type of switch needed is able to be in that version. I have used bladed many times and never had a failure (there is nothing wring with bladed).
 
It's better to disco the neg side...Have seen many rigs disco'd on the pos side without issue--I'm just going by how I've been trained to properly disco a batt...
I have crimped/heat-shrunk (using uninsulated crimp connectors) many connections and haven't had a failure yet (at said connection!:redneck:)...
Screw type switches would seem to be the better, less prone to fail type, although I too have used many blade style switches and have been fine...
 
that is the way that I was going. What solder do you use when doing the solders?

Also for the battery disconnect. Do you do the ground or hot?

Are you refering to a battery disconnect or disconnecting the battery?

Go with 95%tin 5% lead with rosin core center. I really like the thin stuff at radio shack--it flows fast with little heat.
 
It's better to disco the neg side...Have seen many rigs disco'd on the pos side without issue--I'm just going by how I've been trained to properly disco a batt...
I have crimped/heat-shrunk (using uninsulated crimp connectors) many connections and haven't had a failure yet (at said connection!:redneck:)...
Screw type switches would seem to be the better, less prone to fail type, although I too have used many blade style switches and have been fine...

Now you got my atention...

What is the rational for disconecting the neg at the batteries over the posative?:scratchhead:
 
Are you refering to a battery disconnect or disconnecting the battery?.

I am asking about the battery disconnect

What is the rational for disconecting the neg at the batteries over the posative?:scratchhead:


In my thinking it kills all power to the rig instantly. But then again so will the positive. This is why I ask questions.

I built a wiring harness the other night for "the project" and the old man said crimp and blade switches are just fine and I won't have a problem. Personally I deal with a lot of high frequency vibration situations in my ford. If it isn't bolted down, lock tighted and secured to beat hell, it will break
 
You pull the negative side of the batt when disconecting it so that if something (like wrench) falls onto the positive termanal and hits a ground, it won't short the battery because the ground has no return to the battery. If you just disconnected the positive side, it could still short.
 
You pull the negative side of the batt when disconecting it so that if something (like wrench) falls onto the positive termanal and hits a ground, it won't short the battery because the ground has no return to the battery. If you just disconnected the positive side, it could still short.

This is part of it....the other being when you disconnect the neg, there is less of a spike in voltage when you connect, reducing the possibility of damaging electronic devices, pcms, etc....
 
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